Last post on May 13, 2013 at 1:41 PM
You are in the Pontiac Grand Am
What is this discussion about?
Pontiac Grand Am, Security System, Sedan
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For those experiencing the security passlock problem, please see long-time member lovemygrandam's GM Security Passlock Fix tutorial.
#432 of 1226 Re: The Definitive Fix for Security Passlock Problem [lovemygrandam]
Nov 08, 2008 (11:09 am)
I'm so glad I stumbled onto this forum, and this thread. I also belong to the now infamous "Passlock Pandemonium" club. I am going to try your method, lovemygrandam. Thanks so much for taking the time to make that helpful site! And to all here that replied with all the helpful info.
I think I located the proper resistors on the Radio shack website; item number is 271-1325; and it is a 5-pack of 2.2k one-quarter watt resistors. The cost is 99 cents for the package. I am pretty sure that is the kind needed; mabey somebody with more experience than I can confirm that please?
My Pontiac dealer installed a new lock cylinder for me 9 months ago, and cut me a new key too. (luckily extended warranty coverage.. now expired though) all was fine til about a month ago when it is starting to act up again. Engine will crank fine, but wont start.... and the security light flashes. the usual 10 minute wait enables a normal start after the wait period.
Now I have something new too ... The security light will periodically illuminate while driving the car. Nothing abnormal with the driving; but the light will illuminate steady.
I get to my destination fine... shut off the car... and it will restart fine (most of the times) but sometimes will force me to do the 10 wait.
I'm getting tired of this baloney so I'm ready to tackle your tutorial, lovemygrandam.
Can you please confirm for me, after the modification, the security light will NOT illuminate after the mod? And is it safe to say that no trouble codes will show up and be a problem in future yearly state car inspections? I don't know too much about those svs or ses codes; hoping that your mod will not throw any codes.
Again, thanks so much for taking your time for that tutorial; I hope to attempt this soon before it gets cold here in New England; nothing worse than doing fine solder work outside in 10 degree temperatures!
I hope to to do the mod soon, I just hope those are the correct resistors that I found at Radio Shack. If those are the correct resistors, I hope to return here and give my results. Thanks everyone... Tommy
EDIT >> I forgot.. My car is a 2000 Grand Am GT1.
#433 of 1226 One year and no problems
Nov 08, 2008 (1:47 pm)
It's been a year and no more passlock problems. Thanks every one for all your input, My daughters Olds alero has been running problem free.
#434 of 1226 Re: The Definitive Fix for Security Passlock Problem [tommyo1]
Nov 08, 2008 (4:17 pm)
The resistors you ordered from Radio Shack are the correct ones.
I can't say for certain, but I think that any time that that you are driving your car, and something abnormal is detected in your Passlock(tm) security system, the Security light will come on solid. When that happens, you will be able to continue to drive your car until you turn off the ignition. Then, when you try to restart the car, you may have to do the 10 minute learning routine, or.... the Security light may be on solid and remain on when you turn the ignition to on, and you will be able to start the car and drive with the Security light on, or..... everything will be ok, and you can drive normally.
Having read through all the 400+ posts in this thread, my advice to anyone who begins to have Security Light Problems is this.
1. Check to make sure all the connectors on the BCM are good, not corroded.
2. Make sure the BCM does not have water in it. (possibly from heater hose leakage?)
3. If the above two things check out OK, DO THE MOD!
After the mod, you will probably have to do the 10 minute (12 minutes on mine) reset. Once that is done. the security light will be off and remain off (forever). You will NEVER get a security light unless something goes wrong with your BCM.
I'm not sure whether any diagnostic codes are set when the 10 minute reset is performed.
A quick note. When you do this modification, you are replacing an electronic circuit, with a passive component (a resistor) which is considerably more stable. The security circuitry in the Body Control Module reads this circuitry and determines if it is the same as it was when it was last calibrated. If its not, it assumes that someone has messed with the ignition switch (the favorite way for car-thieves to steal cars), and shuts down the car.
Now, when your ignition lock module begins to fail, if you replace it, (for a fee of ~$400), you solve the problem until the lock module fails again, and it seems the replacements don't last as long as the originals. If you replace the lock module circuitry with a simple 2.2k resistor, you solve that problem FOREVER. The only downside is that ONE of the many ways of stealing your car will be easier for the thief.
#435 of 1226 Re: The Definitive Fix for Security Passlock Problem [lovemygrandam]
Nov 09, 2008 (12:07 pm)
I can't thank you enough for all your time and your indepth explanations to everyone here with "Passlock Pandemonium" problems. I've learned so much; thank you!
Lately that's exactly what my car is doing... It will now start fine, but the security light stays on illuminated while I'm driving. After I am at my destination and shut off the car, the next start is fine too, and the security light continues to stay on solid.
It's funny now, because the last two weeks I had to do the 10 minute wait period... But now the light just continues to stay illuminated...
I think I'm going to take out my glovebox and have a good look at that bcm and look for signs of corroded contacts or possibly moisture. I've never had any water leakage issues at all; but I seem to recall some people having water get into the passenger area via a "cowl". I'm not sure where that cowl is... outside by the windshield wiper area, maybe? That black plastic panel under the wipers? When you say check the bcm for water, do mean to actually take it down and shake it; or just look at the contacts for possible corrosion?
I wish I knew what the dealer installed for me 9 months ago when he installed the new cylinder and cut me a new key. I wonder if he also installed that new part for the (hall effect) too. Not sure, but I think it's a seperate part from the cylinder... The whole cost was over $400.00 so I assume it was the whole darn thing. luckily my extended warranty covered it; but of course now the warranty is expired.
So... I guess my first step is to thoroughly check out that bcm, then contimue the troubleshooting from there. I'll check those contacts too and make sure they are clean and allow good clean contact. If the cleaning doesn't resolve anything, it will be time for me to get those resistors from Radio Shack.
Thanks again so much lovemygrandam.. I hope to post my result here as soon as I do the troubleshooting. Your knowledge and explanations are so easy to understand and I'm sure we are all learning this Passlock easier because of that.. Thanks!
#436 of 1226 Just fixed forever!
Nov 09, 2008 (3:15 pm)
Hello, I just fixed my passlock problem forever with the resistor method as mentioned here and on bergerweb.net . Thank you to whoever wrote up that how to. I was very simple and only took me about 10 minutes to get at the wires and solder in a 2.2k 1/4 watt resistor.
Waited 10 minutes with key on and then she stared up no problem!!
#437 of 1226 Re: Just fixed forever! [smaidens]
Nov 10, 2008 (3:15 pm)
#438 of 1226 Re: Just fixed forever! [smaidens]
Nov 10, 2008 (3:48 pm)
I wrote up the procedure and posted it on my website because I wanted to condense all the information I have gleaned from this blog into a more concice place, and make it less of a mystery how the Passlock system works, and how to fix it. I'm very pleased that several people have been able to do this modification successfully, and have their cars back in service. I only wish that the information was easier to find, without resorting to back-door looks at technical manuals. Even the GM Shop manual is vague on this subject, and since most auto mechanics are not whizzes at electronics, it is easy to be displeased with the service at the dealership. Most of the mechanics are doing the best they can with the information they have available, and believe me, the mechanic only gets a tiny cut of that $75.00 per hour that you pay to the dealer for car repairs.
Sharing the technical workings of your GM automobile would go a long way toward customer satisfaction. Most owners are very satisfied with their GM cars, but get disgusted when something goes wrong with a feature that they don't really need, and they can't bypass it to keep on using their car. When this happens, we have to depend on great forums like this one to get the help we need to keep motoring without mortgaging our house.
Anyway, smaidens, thanks for the compliment.
#440 of 1226 2002 Grand Am Security Light
Nov 12, 2008 (11:51 am)
After months of inability to start, followed by the ten minute procedure, the car has evolved to where it starts and runs all the time, but the security light stays on all the time too. Apparently I am in "fail-enable" mode. Does anyone know if I install the resistor that is often talked about, after being in the "fail-enable" mode, will the security light go out ad stay out?
#441 of 1226 Re: 2002 Grand Am Security Light [calderone]
Nov 12, 2008 (1:15 pm)
If the cause of the failure is the ignition module, then doing the resistor mod AND doing a 10 minute reset will cause the Security light to go out and stay out. If the failure is in the Body Control Module, or a break in the serial data bus between the BCM and PCM, then the resistor mod will not help. So far, I don't think anyone who has had this problem has found it to be caused by the BCM, at least not anyone who has responded to this blog.