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Ford F-Series Electrical and Lighting Problems

111 messages,  Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 2:46 PM

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What is this discussion about? Ford F-150, Lights, Truck


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#58 of 111
Re: power door lock? [rickevin29] by mickeymouse2
Mar 20, 2008 (6:11 pm)
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Replying to: rickevin29 (Mar 20, 2008 11:34 am)

I doubt that it is a relay. Most likely your after market remote shorted something out. Recommend close examination of the area that you saw the sparks. Check fuses in interior fuse box and engine compartment. There is a third relay box usually mounted under the dash, drivers side near the heater defrost duct. It holds about 10 relays is black with a black cover. Your relay for power windows, power locks ect is in there. I think your wasting you time checking that first though. Shorts usually occur where the wires melt, sparks ect. My guess is that a power wire that is suppose to be hot at all times, shorted out with your new remote. Either your circuit protection blew a fuse, or a wire melted to ground. The power door lock circut is hot always with the key on or off.
#59 of 111
Ford F150 Electrical Problems by dglarson
May 08, 2008 (4:31 am)
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I have a 1982 F150, Straight 6 with automatic transmission with the following problem. With engine running but sitting in park the wipers, turn signals, emergency flashers and heater fan do NOT work. I put the vehicle into Drive and the wipers start working but the turn signals, emergency flashers and heater fan still do NOT work. With the Engine OFF but the ignition key turned to On, the wipers, heater fan, emergency flashers and turn signals all Work.
This is clearly some kind of electrical problem but I don't know where to look or start.
#60 of 111
Re: Ford F150 Electrical Problems [dglarson] by wpalkowski
May 14, 2008 (4:53 am)
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Replying to: dglarson (May 08, 2008 4:31 am)

From the weird behavior you describe, it sounds like maybe the clock spring inside the steering column may be on its last legs. It makes all the electrical connections for the compnenets inthe steering column.
#61 of 111
Re: Interior lights stay off [bil2303] by mtap007
Jun 24, 2008 (12:02 pm)
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Replying to: bil2303 (Mar 10, 2007 12:34 pm)

this is a manufacturer problem that they will not admit to. Nevertheless, the best way to corrent this problem is to undo the negative post to your battery for about 2 minutes. This will send a message to your computer to reset everything in your truck and the light will be off when you hook it back up. You will have to reset your clock but other than that it will work fine.
#62 of 111
F250 won't crank after battery replacement by bpaulson
Jul 12, 2008 (1:05 pm)
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I have a 1999 F-250 with a 7.3 powerstroke diesel. Couldn't get it started this morning, so I put a battery charger on it. Two hours later and nothing. Jumped it, turned over but wouldn't start. During this time the alarm went off intermittently. Batteries checked bad, so I now have two new batteries installed. When I turn the key, I hear the solenoid under the dash click, but nothing else. No cranking at all. All lights/chimes work great. Possibly related...when I lock it with the FOB, the horn beeps instead of the alarm chirping. I've turned the key on and off 3 times, pushed the black valet button with the key on (service guy's suggestion) but no luck. Any suggestions?
 
Thanks!
#63 of 111
Re: F250 won't crank after battery replacement [bpaulson] by mtap007
Jul 16, 2008 (5:48 am)
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Replying to: bpaulson (Jul 12, 2008 1:05 pm)

This has been a problem for not only that model but the 1997-98. Try replacing the solenoid first. Also have the alternator checked and let me know it this corrects the problem.
#64 of 111
03 electrical issue by 03powerstroke
Aug 05, 2008 (8:20 am)
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I have recently been experiencing some issue's with my 03 F250 powerstroke. This past weekend it started having some electrical problems. First the radio goes out, then all of the guages go to zero including the speedometer. At this point the battery light usually flickers and then all of the guages cycle a couple of times. At this point the radio comes back on and the guages go back to normal. This usually occurs while coasting or at low rpm's. I have also been seeing the battery light come on occasionally with no immediate problems. The battery light issue usually occurs either a couple minutes before or after the other electrical issue. Does anyone have any suggestions for a possible fix? I would appreciate any input.
#65 of 111
01 F150 Supercrew electrical issue by madison4
Aug 13, 2008 (5:45 pm)
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I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew. The moon roof, map lights and power windows do not work. I found what appear to be a 30 AMP fuse in the fuse box under the hood, but it is metal and is the metal fuse looking device in the panel. I tried a plastic 30 Amp fuse but it did not help. The manual
says this outlet (with the metal fuse) is only used on a Supercrew.
 
Is this something I will have to get from a dealer ?
 
Does this appear to be a realistic identification of the issue ?
 
Thanks
 
Chip
#66 of 111
'05 f-350 odometer tampering questions by ibtiggs
Sep 01, 2008 (11:47 am)
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I am thinking of buying a '05 f350 diesel, that is a lease back from an oilfield company. The problem that I have is, instead of saying 64,323KM, as the dealership claims it has for mileage, the digital odometer reads 064323KM. The 0 at the beginning of the line has me worried. I have looked at about 8 other similar trucks, and none of them has the 0 in front.
Is there a way to tell if this odometer has been tampered with? ANY help anyone could offer would be greatly appreciated.
#67 of 111
F150 charging system question by shep4016
Sep 07, 2008 (8:15 pm)
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Hey Guys, this is the first time I've ever joined an online discussion...here's my situation:
 
1992 F150 5.8L with towing pkg, CB, air horn, plus power everything.
 
Just bught the truck wih original 60,000 miles, mostly highway. For the past couple of years (don't really know how long) previous owner hardly ran it, just started her up and let her run for 30 mins or so once a week.
 
I've put about 5,000 miles on her since May, and now she's draining the battery. I've narrowed the problem down to the voltage regulator.
 
Those 5,000 miles were the beak-in; I'm likely only going to drive her a couple times per week, for maybe 20-40 mins each time, and then 2 or 3 times a year for 200-400 mile camping trips.
 
Question: Is this limited operation likely to bring on more/other issues with the charging system? If so, maybe I should replace the alternator or consider some other alternatives to head off potential issues?
 
Thanks for any advice,
shep

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