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Ford F-Series Electrical and Lighting Problems

72 messages,  Last post on Oct 03, 2008 at 7:45 AM

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#63 of 72 Re: F250 won't crank after battery replacement [bpaulson] by mtap007 Jul 16, 2008 (6:48 am)
Replying to: bpaulson (Jul 12, 2008 2:05 pm) This has been a problem for not only that model but the 1997-98. Try replacing the solenoid first. Also have the alternator checked and let me know it this corrects the problem.
#64 of 72 03 electrical issue by 03powerstroke Aug 05, 2008 (9:20 am)
I have recently been experiencing some issue's with my 03 F250 powerstroke. This past weekend it started having some electrical problems. First the radio goes out, then all of the guages go to zero including the speedometer. At this point the battery light usually flickers and then all of the guages cycle a couple of times. At this point the radio comes back on and the guages go back to normal. This usually occurs while coasting or at low rpm's. I have also been seeing the battery light come on occasionally with no immediate problems. The battery light issue usually occurs either a couple minutes before or after the other electrical issue. Does anyone have any suggestions for a possible fix? I would appreciate any input.
#65 of 72 01 F150 Supercrew electrical issue by madison4 Aug 13, 2008 (6:45 pm)
I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew. The moon roof, map lights and power windows do not work. I found what appear to be a 30 AMP fuse in the fuse box under the hood, but it is metal and is the metal fuse looking device in the panel. I tried a plastic 30 Amp fuse but it did not help. The manual says this outlet (with the metal fuse) is only used on a Supercrew.   Is this something I will have to get from a dealer ?   Does this appear to be a realistic identification of the issue ?   Thanks   Chip
#66 of 72 '05 f-350 odometer tampering questions by ibtiggs Sep 01, 2008 (12:47 pm)
I am thinking of buying a '05 f350 diesel, that is a lease back from an oilfield company. The problem that I have is, instead of saying 64,323KM, as the dealership claims it has for mileage, the digital odometer reads 064323KM. The 0 at the beginning of the line has me worried. I have looked at about 8 other similar trucks, and none of them has the 0 in front. Is there a way to tell if this odometer has been tampered with? ANY help anyone could offer would be greatly appreciated.
#67 of 72 F150 charging system question by shep4016 Sep 07, 2008 (9:15 pm)
Hey Guys, this is the first time I've ever joined an online discussion...here's my situation:   1992 F150 5.8L with towing pkg, CB, air horn, plus power everything.   Just bught the truck wih original 60,000 miles, mostly highway. For the past couple of years (don't really know how long) previous owner hardly ran it, just started her up and let her run for 30 mins or so once a week.   I've put about 5,000 miles on her since May, and now she's draining the battery. I've narrowed the problem down to the voltage regulator.   Those 5,000 miles were the beak-in; I'm likely only going to drive her a couple times per week, for maybe 20-40 mins each time, and then 2 or 3 times a year for 200-400 mile camping trips.   Question: Is this limited operation likely to bring on more/other issues with the charging system? If so, maybe I should replace the alternator or consider some other alternatives to head off potential issues?   Thanks for any advice, shep
#68 of 72 F150 battery drain..STUMPED! by shep4016 Sep 12, 2008 (2:51 pm)
OK I have a '92 F150 5.8L which has an elusive battery drain. Here's the situation: I'd been on some very rough roads, probably driving too fast. When I stopped to set up camp and shut off the ignition, the truck died. No response whatsoever when I turned the key.   Got lucky and found a guy who sold me a battery, truck started. I was out for a few more days and had no problems. When I got home and didn't run it for 2 days it again would not start--again, no response at all.   I replaced the battery and starter (just for good measure) and she started right up. The next day, completely dead. Rechecked my starter installation--all good--recharged the battery and she started right up. Next day, dead again.   I recharged and retested the battery--it held charge when it was not hooked up--and when I put both cables back on the voltage dropped rapidly (30 secs) to about 6.5V. When I pulled either cable off it steadily recharged itself. Both cables hooked up, rapid drain; either cable alone and no problem.   I unhooked the voltage regulator harness and the drain stopped, so I replaced it. With the new one installed, rapid drain AGAIN!   I hooked up my multimeter between the POS post and cable and then the NEG post and cable, each time pulled every fuse and relay, but turned up nothing. (In line on the NEG side, though, with each fuse pulled I got a minimal jump in voltage--after I pulled and replaced them all the total voltage jump was .3V)   So I checked continuity across the tops of every fuse. The EEC relay (diode) showed resistance of .18. The maxi20 fuse associated with fuel pump relay showed resistance of .01, so I replaced the relay and got continuity.   Still the battery drains. I am stumped. Can anyone out there give me a CLUE??   Thanks, Shep Replies to this message: mickeymouse2 (Sep 23, 2008 5:00 pm)
#69 of 72 electrical windows by hughett Sep 23, 2008 (8:07 am)
Hello my name is Hughett, I have a 2005 F150, XLT 54. Triton. A week ago when I stopped at the light my truck just shut off. Although I had a new battery, I had to replaced the battery. Then two days ago after getting into my truck I tried to roll down the driver side front window, but the whole window just dropped between the door and panel. Now the drivers side controls will roll the other windows down but will not roll them back up??????? where there any recalls on the electrical system on the 2005 F150 that I should know about? Help please!!!!!!!! Hughett
#70 of 72 Re: F150 battery drain..STUMPED! [shep4016] by mickeymouse2 Sep 23, 2008 (5:00 pm)
Replying to: shep4016 (Sep 12, 2008 2:51 pm) Sounds like a parisitic draw. You can only check for that with an external probe on computer controled vehicles just for info. Here is what you can do though. Disconect the battery and then disconect the "B" terminal that is conected to the Alternator. That is the big 8 guage cable leading to the positive post from the alternator. Put something over it so when you reconect the battery it doesn't short to ground. Reconect the battery and see if the drain is still there. If the drain is gone your most likely cause is a shorted alternator. And yes I have come across alternators that charge the vehicle, but have a parisitic draw due to a defect. From what you described on the voltage drop when the battery is connected, it is a big short. If your positive cable is touching ground somewhere, that would cause it too, but most likely would melt at that area. Suspect your alternater!!
#71 of 72 F-150 Headlight adjusters by tjfitz Sep 27, 2008 (2:26 am)
My 1999 F-150 has three adjusters per headlight, and only two of those are "adjustable". The third seems to be factory-set.   My lower adjusters are seized because of rust on the adjuster metal screw thread. I've done the usual WD-40 soak but still can't move the screw in the threaded plastic hub of the adjuster, and at least one of the hubs already has a crack running along its length.   Does anyone know of a source for buying these adjuster assemblies? I'm afraid Ford will want a big price for them. I've tried eBay and searched the Internet with Google with no luck. Replies to this message: tjfitz (Oct 03, 2008 7:45 am)
#72 of 72 Re: F-150 Headlight adjusters [tjfitz] by tjfitz Oct 03, 2008 (7:45 am)
Replying to: tjfitz (Sep 27, 2008 2:26 am) I went to a local car junk yard and I studied eBay for headlight adjusters, but it seems they are not sold separately from the headlights, and the headlight assemblies aren't selling for much less than $30 each.   I spent some time yesterday spraying the two seized adjusters with WD-40 then tapping them with a small hammer hoping to loosen the plastic rider on the rusted threads, but no luck.   Then I turned one of the seized riders as forcefully as I dared, and it began to move on the threads. That rider was the one what had a crack running its length, parallel with the threads.   This morning I got out my utility knife and cut the rider on the other seized adjuster until it was all the way through the hub and now that one moves on the threads, too.   It is a destructive solution, but is seems to solve my problem, and hopefully will save me about $60!

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