Last post on May 29, 2013 at 4:07 AM
You are in the Chrysler Sebring
What is this discussion about?
Chrysler Sebring, Convertible, Sedan
#20 of 160 Re: sebring lx 1995 [bob364]
Sep 01, 2004 (10:00 am)
Recently, my Check Engine light came on my 1995 Sebring (90K miles currently) and it had an extremely erratic idle with coughing, jerking & sputtering. It turned out that oil had leaked into the spark plugs. The valve covers, plugs & wires were replaced, but the problem continued, and eventually the car would completely stall at idle, and sometimes even going on the highway.
One of the automotive garages replaced both of my 02 sensors, but the problem continued. Another garage replaced the fuel filter & thermostat, but the problem continued. The dealership said that my computer (PCM) was bad, and it was replaced.
The erratic idle problem continues to this day, which makes driving the car very difficult, albeit unsafe. 3 automotive garages (including the original dealership) have tried to find the problem, but to no avail. I have already spent over $2000 on this issue, and the car isn't worth more than $4000 to date.
I might as well note, as an aside, that my transmission was completely rebuilt at 49K miles, along with the replacement of the water pump, the distributor cap & the timing belt - Not to mention that the brakes have been replaced 4+ times, and the front end was rebuilt through a recall.
Suffice to say that I will NEVER BUY ANOTHER CHRYSLER PRODUCT nor RECOMMEND CHRYSLER TO ANYONE.
#21 of 160 Re: sebring lx 1995 [lizzdmc]
Oct 03, 2004 (3:16 pm)
I would 1st like to start off by saying that i understand your pain. I own a 1999 Chrysler Sebring. This car its the worst purchase that i have ever made in my life. The car is unreliable, undependable, and most of all over-priced. the car was purchased brand spanking new. The 1st problem started with flat tires( the tires are extremely expensive $186.00). As with yourself the check engine light has been on for eternity the computer was replaced that was not the problem (and remains on until this very day). The brakes go extremely fast with my previous car that i owned the back brakes were replaced once, with the sebring 4 TIMES!!!( i owned my prev. car for 10 yrs.). The brakes make an irritating grinding noise even if they are new. The door handles pop off yes right into your hand. I am missing the passenger handle. The side panels on the outside as well slide right off. I should've known better when i 1st purchased the car b/c there was a black tar like substance on the side rail. Getting back to bigger and better problems, the driver seats has been welded together twice. I reclined it one day and it never sat up again. Car seats are supposed to be durable not this one. The car now stops on inclines, declines, and when your going below 15MPH. When the car stops you have to give it gas in order for it to start back up if not then it WILL not turnover. The car goes to hot if sit for 1 minute yes 1 minute. The car idles on HIGH if you you do decide to go above 35 MPH it sounds like a truck when your trying to do the speed limit. Just the other day the car started to making a whining noise only when you accelerate and if you try to go over 40MPH forget it. The car has a hard time picking up the speed that it used to have. Overall as you stated i will NEVER EVER NEVER BUY A CHRYSLER, DODGE OR JEEP PRODUCT. Its all the same. Nor will let my worst enemy buy this car let alone someone dear to me Purchase one. I am FINISHED. I HAVE LEARNED A VALUABLE LESSON AND SHALL GO ELSEWHERE FOR BUSINESS AND TO DO TONS OF RESEARCH BEFORE PURCHASING MY NEXT CAR. CHRYSLER SUCK NEED I SAY MORE
#22 of 160 Re: sebring lx 1995 [lizzdmc]
Jun 29, 2005 (3:19 pm)
My '95 Sebring is second-hand, purchased it Oct. 2003, and I loved it, had no problems with it up until March of this year. Then, it flat died while I was driving on the Interstate. Had it towed, the repair shop said it was a sensor (crank shaft, I think?) and replaced it.
It seemed to do alright, up until about two months ago. Apparently, the water pump went bad, and it overheated, and I had it towed to the same shop again. While they were in there - they grumbled about how difficult the engine was to work on because it was configured oddly? - they changed the timing belt as well.
After that, the car would sputter now and then, a hesitation that, if I took my foot off the gas pedal, seemed to correct itself. But it kept getting worse. I thought 'spark plugs and wires?' so made a note to get it in and get it fixed as soon as I could afford it. Unfortunately, the car beat me to the punch.
The first time it died, it started to sputter again, but no easing of my foot from the gas did any good. It kept sputtering, coughing, losing power, until it finally strangled to death completely. I had it towed in, and the shop worked on it. That was a month ago. Just this evening, I went and picked up the car for the.. hmm.. 6th time? And even though they've now replaced another sensor, the distributor, the spark plugs and wires, and something else I can't recall, it did it again. Sputtered. Coughed. Wheezed. Chugged. Strangled. Died - a long slow painful death. It seems to happen after about 30 to 45 minutes of driving.
I called the shop, and they're going to retrieve it and try the fuel pump next. I've invested far too much money into this thing already, but I have no other alternative or choice. I NEED my vehicle. The garage guys are still baffled, and if the fuel pump doesn't fix it, I think they're at the end of their rope as well.
HELP?? Does this sound even vaguely familiar to anyone out there?
#23 of 160 Re: sebring lx 1995 [cfritzc]
Jun 30, 2005 (5:32 am)
Seeing this -
<<#267 of 267 Re: PLEASE HELP ME I AM GOING CRAZY!!!! [mom3402] by tanglewood Jun 30, 2005 (8:52 am) Bookmark || E-mail Msg Replying to: mom3402 (May 27, 2005 10:38 pm) Sounds like a blocked catalytic converter. Over time the internals get loose and block the exhaust. >>
- reminded me that the shop also worked on the catalytic converter. They also checked to see if a vapor lock had been created somehow, but it's the orginal gas cap and that seems not to be the case either.
#24 of 160 Re: sebring lx 1995 [cfritzc]
Jul 13, 2005 (2:23 pm)
I'm having the same problem in my '98 except at idle - then I replaced the plugs and wires myself - now it won't start at all - cranks with spark and fuel (on plugs when I removed them to check spark)
My Problem used to go away after car was trying to idle for 5 or so minutes.
No OBD codes - but it never starts ...so I'm not sure if I'd even get any codes ??
I have replaced the Fuel Filter - but still not starting.
Did the fuel Pump fix yours?
#25 of 160 Re: sebring lx 1995 [donc514]
Jul 18, 2005 (7:28 am)
No, unfortunately they decided NOT to try the fuel pump - because of where it's located, is my understanding of their reasoning - and instead have ordered a new computer to try instead.
Now, I'm a professional computer geek by trade, yet I haven't the foggiest idea to what extent the 'computer' on my car will change things, how much it costs, any of that.
I've been told by other folks here where I live to suggest they check the fuel injector, and the torque sensor. What do I know? I can only surmise the shop has checked these things already, but will mention them regardless. Surely they would do everything -else- before resorting to fiddling with the computer, wouldn't they??
Then again, someone else mentioned taking the car to another shop, but.. I'll have to get it back from the first shop in order to do that. It's been three weeks this time, if I'm thinking correctly.
At the very least, when all's said and done, if they EVER get it up and running again, maybe it'll run for a good long while, what with a practically brand new engine.
#26 of 160 Re: sebring lx 1995 [lizzdmc]
Jan 10, 2006 (5:49 pm)
I have a 1998 sebring lx and it like looses power when driving for like 30 mins at a time. Mechanics have told me that it might be the catltic converter or the fuel filter. I dont know what it is. It will drive fine for 25 to 30 mins then it will loose power. Then you turn the car off and let it sit for 15 mins it wont do that, until like 25 to 30 mins have passed.
#27 of 160 1997 Sebring 6-Cylinder
Sep 04, 2002 (10:33 am)
I now have 120k on my 97 JX 6-cycliner which I've never had any problems with. I bought it as a program car with 15k back in 1998.
My problems are:
1) Oil light keeps coming on when I'm in Drive and at a stoplight and the engine idles low. If I rev the engine just a hair, the oil light goes off.
2) Stupid Service Engine Soon light keeps coming on. I've had it checked by Chrysler 5 times and they can never find anything wrong and just reset it. I've discovered that it comes on shortly after I fill up the gas tank and shortly before I need to fill it. I'm somewhat used to seeing it coming on and going off but it's still kind of unsettling to see it.
3) I've read that the timing belt needs to be replaced at 106k. Is this major work to replace? Also, mechanics have told me that I should just drive it until it falls off ... any assesments?
ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Oh, the stitching on the rag top is starting to come undone on the vinyl top in several places. Is there any method of putting some stitching in with somekind of tool? The car loan has been paid off and I just want to keep all costs down to a minimum.
I really love this car. No problems except for the ones I've just mentioned. Who says Detroit can't build reliable cars?
#28 of 160 Re: 1997 Sebring 6-Cylinder [BikerMiker]
Oct 05, 2004 (2:00 pm)
i also have a 97 chrysler sebring and i have soo hard the same things, only i heard that if the timing belt isn't replaced it can melt valves and other bad things like that, my car just now started the oil light thing, this past week, but it only does it when i stop at a red light, when i press the gas it stops, and goes off, and the service engine soon light is caused by fumes getting to a sensor aroudn the gas tank, something about gas fumes, so i'm told by chrysler.
#29 of 160 Re: 1997 Sebring 6-Cylinder [grnchrysler200]
Nov 14, 2004 (8:01 am)
Thisis exactly what is happening to my car.I went to autozone to have them diagnose it and the code p0134 came up-they said it is an oxygen sensor which i will have to replace but how does an oxygen sensor affect the oil light???