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Denali Yukon Traction Active Readout on Display

26 messages, Last post on Oct 19, 2009 at 5:57 AM
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Replying to: tomkasner (Oct 06, 2006 10:58 am) I posted the same problem on 2/25. You have provided the answer I need. I will clean my sensors and see if that makes a difference. By the way, for anyone that has the problem and still has not had it fixed, when the truck dies in the middle of the intersection, simply press the "Traction" button to disable the traction control and you will be on your way again. Another alternative is to floor the gas pedal, that works too, although it's hard on the transmission and maybe unsafe if there is someone in front of you.
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Replying to: isi (Mar 12, 2009 11:53 am) |
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Good morning, I have a 2003 yukon denaili and like many of you My traction control kicks in while doing a left turn or accelerating. Like all of you pressing the disengage button or letting go of the gas pedal and accelerating again gets rid of the problem. The only difference I have seen that I dont think anyone has mentioned, is that when i turn to park or sometimes just doing normal breaking my BRAKE pedal starts VIBRATING as if the abs system is kicking in. I have not had a problem yet while turning to the RIGHT. second problem is my A/C the first time the belt broke i replaced it and the A/C worked fine. Now the a/c went out so i figured the belt broke but its still on and it is working properly and not slipping. I cannot hear the compressor turn on and im afraid its that because just for the compressor im talking about 360 dollars. any other ideas. I have tested the freeon and everything seems to be fine.
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i got a 2003 denali and i was told before i put it on jackstands i need to "disable" the shocks so they dont over expand. How is disabiling them done?
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Replying to: 03pimpnali (May 23, 2009 2:29 pm) I could be wrong, but below is my thinking out loud on why I can't see that is necessary. Just thinking out loud : 1. You must have one of those OEM Auto-Ride systems. 2. In the event that you need to change a tire due to flat (or raise the vehicle for a tire rotation), you have to first jack-up one of the wheels, does your Owner's manual says you need to disable the auto-ride system (in my 2007's manual, it does not; but if for your model year is Yes, then most likely you just found the instruction on how to disable the auto-ride system). 3. Skip the #2 thinking above. The auto-ride system is to pump air in to the shocks when they are compressed by the carrying weight/load to your vehicle, the pump stops when the vehicle reaches back to the specific/normal ride height (distance between the axle and chassis/frame) via a position sensor/switch (for example, normal vehicle ride height is 8" apart between the frame and the axle, now with load its down to 7", so as you turn-on the ignition, the auto-ride system triggers the compressor to pump air in to your shocks until the ride height is raised back to 8"). As you raise the vehicle on to jack stands, if you rest the axles on stands then you have nothing to be concerned with as the ride height/distance between the axle and the chassis is the same as if the vehicle is sitting on its 4 tires. Agree? Let's say you rest the vehicle on the stands by its frame, that means the axles will drop down (longer distance between the axles and the chassis than normal), as your turn on the ignition that should not trigger the pump to turn-on, would it? I would think not... Anyway, to play it safe, there seems to be two ways to disable the system: 1. remove the auto-ride system relay from the fuse block in the engine compartment 2. or by disconnect the Auto Level Control (ALC) Air Compressor connector in the rear of the vehicle. You first need to locate the compressor and follow the wiring and you should then locate the connector (most likely via those plastic anchors anchored to the back of your rear bumper close to the spare tire... Disconnect either, then turn on the ignition for 45 seconds and make sure the compressor is disabled before put it on stands. Be Safe! |
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My wheel bearings were replaced so that should not be the problem but if it pulls and makes a loud sound when the traction active comes on for a brief moment then leap frogs and the noise and display goes away is it more likely cleaning or replacement? Thanks. We went on a long trip and did not have the problem. Before and after the trip in town we do have the problem. Would an uneven tire pressure have anything to do with the problem?
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Replying to: rainmaker1947 (Jun 03, 2009 7:01 pm) |
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| No wonder GMC is in trouble--they never admit thier mistakes and make consumers upset! In the last month our Yukon's speedometer cluster dropped off the reading and other instruments in the cluster (step motor) Got that fixed for $200 in Toronto; this week more surprises before our holidays to the OBX. The traction active started; took it to the GMC Dealer JACK MAY in Ottawa--they charged 200 to clean the contacts plus 100 to UPGRADE the software which accidentally tells the computer there is a problem when there isn't. Leaving their shop I almost got totalled by a truck as I tried crossing the highway! $350 and still the same issue! At the same time our Rear Hatch window fell off the hinge on the right side. We have MAYBE used the window 5 times since we bought the truck! The Dealer told us it is a $1400 fix, that we need a new window! All three issues are well documented with users. They are all SAFETY issues. I never mind paying to replace worn parts but this is unbelievable! We can put men on the moon but cannot reattach glass to the hinge like they did in the factory. Has anyone found solutions for any of these? I am going to try the JB Weld posted here but would like more details. Thanks. | |
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Replying to: isi (Mar 12, 2009 11:53 am) |
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Replying to: misionnortena (May 18, 2009 2:20 am)
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