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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Electrical Problems

152 messages,  Last post on Dec 06, 2011 at 11:12 AM

You are in the GMC Safari & Chevy Astro Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Astro, GMC Safari, GMC Safari Cargo, Electrical, Van

Messages Page 11 of 16

#99 of 152 Re: 2003 Chevy Astro [udiwin] by spike99

May 10, 2009 (9:49 pm)

Replying to: udiwin (May 02, 2009 6:17 pm)
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For "good" selling price comparison for your specific area, do shop around. Try your other local auto dealers and if needed, try online sites (like auto trader sites) and do lots of web searches. Unfortunately, each specific region has their own selling range.
 
190,000 miles sounds like lots of miles on a van. Especially a previous business van - that might have been driven hard - to meet business "within same day" deadlines. Hopefully, it's mostly hiway miles.
 
For Astro / Safari van weak spots, do focus on:
- Transmissions sometimes blow and need a rebuilt. My previous van needed tranny rebuild at 75,000 miles - which cost $1,000. After the tranny was rebuilt, it ran better then factory.
- Even if you do NOT tow trailers, do install a transmission oil cooler in the Astro/Safari van. For example: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/OC-1678.html Many tranny specialists say that keeping its transmission oil "cooler" helps. Especially on those hot summer days and van is loaded with onboard cargo.
- Fuel pumps sometimes blow and need to be replaced. My buddy's Astro fuel pump blew and needed $1K to fix - including a tow to the local auto shop. I hear GM Delco fuel pumps can be bought on ebay - if you like to keep one on the shelf (sort of speaking).
- Rear axles (especially default factory 342 gearing) sometimes blow. If you can, get a RWD (2 WD) van with 373 or if towing or heavy cargo, go with 411 gearing instead. The default 342 gearing in passenger van isn't designed for lots of passenger body weight, trailer towing or lots of onboard cargo - that many business vehicles need. Next time around, I'd get an Astro/Safari with 373 gearing instead. And go with 411 gearing for hilly region.
- Vaccum rubber line (that operates cabin heater controls) often melts. $20 or so to fix it.
- Alternator (being so hot under the hood) often blows. Under $300 to replace.
- Engine oil "cooler lines" often leak and need to be replaced. GM charges way "too much" for these replacement parts. If you can, replace with 3rd pary piping. Many pipe bending shops will create better replacement piping for 1/3 the cost that GM charges.
- Front steering idler arms need to be replaced often as well. If needing to be replaced (to tighten up steering controls), go with MOOG brand idler arms and grease them during every engine oil change. Many say this MOOG brand is the best - for idler arm replacements.
- For onboard cargo, I'd buy / install Timbrens SES units. They eliminate "factory mush" up/down rear suspension and more importantly, eliminate mass rear sag. To me, the Astro/Safari design should have been built with 4 leaf springs instead of factory 3 leaf springs. Install Timbren SES units and rear suspension sag is eliminate. Especially if loaded down for business cargo. For more details, surf: http://www.timbren.com/ses-van-suv.htm
 
If the used van in question looks great, has been inspected by reliable mechanics and "feels right" to you (and is a good selling price), then its probably worth buying. Especially if its design fits your business hauling needs. After buying it, I'd install a tranny cooler for up to 5,000 lbs trailers (to make its tranny last longer), install Timbrens (to eliminate rear sag) and start using it. And, replace the other "design weak spots" IF they happen to you.
 
Hope this helps...
 
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#100 of 152 astro 1993 4.3 engine by helpmetoday

Jul 21, 2009 (7:59 pm)

My Van Runs great, then the engine will stop, like I turned off the ignition switch. sometimes it will restart and run fine, other times it needs to sit for 15 to 30 minutes, then runs like nothing happened?
I have taken it to three different repair shops, the first one replaced the coil and ignition module, the next two replaced the ignition module. This has happened in the last year and 2000 miles. Any ideas?? thxs

#101 of 152 need help by frostystone

Jul 23, 2009 (3:25 pm)

i have a 1994 chevy astro van when i run the ac it get really hot there was a leak in water pump it was replaced doesnt run hot when in idle what can be the problem could ac be low or what can i check to see the problem

#102 of 152 Re: need help [frostystone] by needhelpinpa

Jul 25, 2009 (8:27 pm)

Replying to: frostystone (Jul 23, 2009 3:25 pm)
Dear Frosty,
     I also have a '94 Astro but have not experienced your particular problem but I did have to replace my water pump and elected to get rid of my air conditioner for a "dummy" pulley.
     Could your problem possibly be, 1)- a bearing going bad on the AC? (mine was getting hot because the AC would not let the fan belt turn the fan fast enough). Or 2)- Could the thermostat be not opening fully and needs replaced? Check by dropping it in pan of boiling water. Or 3)- Could it have another leak somewhere and be low on antifreeze? Just some thoughts.

#103 of 152 Re: astro 1993 4.3 engine [helpmetoday] by needhelpinpa

Jul 25, 2009 (8:53 pm)

Replying to: helpmetoday (Jul 21, 2009 7:59 pm)
Helpmetoday,
       Are you experiencing any other losses other than engine quitting?
  Here's my story for you to consider. My 94 Astro would die all of a sudden with loss of horn and lights as well. After a few moments the power returned and I was able to restart and be on my way. The 4rth time it did this it was for good. I realized also my fuel pump start up noise was missing. Checked wiring, fuses, fusable links, and relays but they were all good. It turns out the problem was the firewall plug itself behind the battery with the four wires. The plug was only feeding 3 wires. The other wire was dead and was the one that fed the lights, fuel pump, and horn. I wired it up direct and it is working. Check to make sure all four lines have power. Hope this helps.

#104 of 152 Van (2002 GMC Safari) acting as if there is no battery by sgtpsychosis

Aug 22, 2009 (1:11 pm)

My van is acting as if there is no battery,
I stick the key in the ignition and it freely rotates from ACC all the way to start, but there is no reaction from the van--no dome lights, no dash lights, no starter...NOTHING.
The battery reads a littel over 18 volts.
I put the voltmeter down at the solenoid, and it is good.
The connections at the battery are good.
The terminals are clean.
I tried to jump the van using my Jeep, but the van just acts as if there is no battery. I even went so far as to disconnect the battery, and hook the jumper cables to the battery cables, but nothing.
 
The only thing I can think of is the cylinder where the key goes in.
 
Any ideas/opinions?

#105 of 152 Re: Van (2002 GMC Safari) acting as if there is no battery [sgtpsychosis] by needhelpinpa

Aug 22, 2009 (2:21 pm)

Replying to: sgtpsychosis (Aug 22, 2009 1:11 pm)
I'm just a fellow Astro owner as well and have a suggestion. Check to see if you have headlights. If not, follow the positive wire that runs from the positive terminal back to the firewall; remove plastic cap and check for power. If ok continue past the in-line fusable links and check for power. If ok, check for power at the fuse panel (each column). Maybe something will show up that will help.

#106 of 152 Turn ignition hear clicks by rpep

Nov 29, 2009 (11:58 am)

The battery on my 2003 Safari would not turn the van over. Because it is the original battery, I replaced it with a new one. It starts fine now but, when I turn the ignition key I hear a clicking noise before starting it. It clicks about 6 times and then stops. I heard this clicking with the old battery and thought it was because the battery was low or dead. Anyone have any idea what this may be?

#107 of 152 Re: Turn ignition hear clicks [rpep] by Steve_01

Nov 29, 2009 (8:19 pm)

Replying to: rpep (Nov 29, 2009 11:58 am)
My 2 cents: 1) A possible bad ground. Check the connection of your cable coming from the battery to the frame or wherever it connects to the vehicle. It's worth loosening and re-tightening the ground connection at the frame just to make sure. Maybe even spray a little WD40 at the contact point before tightening the bolt. 2) Maybe your old battery damaged the starter solenoid? Where is the sound coming from? Under the van? If you think it might be the solenoid, disconnect the solenoid wire at the solenoid and connect an analog volt meter. Have someone turn the key while you watch the needle. If the needle stays steady, it's probably the solenoid. If it fluctuates, then the problem is somewhere else.
Note: Just because your getting 12-14 volts at the starter doesn't necessarily mean that you have a good ground. A week ground will prevent adequate amperage from reaching the starter (not the solenoid).

#108 of 152 Re: Turn ignition hear clicks [Steve_01] by rpep

Nov 30, 2009 (10:18 am)

Replying to: Steve_01 (Nov 29, 2009 8:19 pm)
Thanks for your response. I will check the ground as you suggested and re-tighten. Another question, would the clicking occur (ground or solenoid) even though the I just turned the key on, but did not attempt to start it? I am puzzled as to why the clicking is 6 to 10 clicks and then stops on its own. Any info is appreciated.

Messages Page 11 of 16

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