Last post on Apr 13, 2013 at 7:01 PM
You are in the Volkswagen Jetta
What is this discussion about?
Volkswagen Jetta, Engine, Sedan
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#281 of 292 Re: Whats that noise??? [suz18]
Jul 13, 2011 (6:13 am)
Wouldn't your Jetta be under warranty? Its a 2011 with 16,000 miles. All repairs should be covered. Am I missing something here?
#282 of 292 Re: Whats that noise??? [suz18]
Oct 12, 2011 (1:30 pm)
I have the exact same problem as you. I just had my axle replaced because of torn CV boots and now there is a very loud loise at 3800 RPM. I am afraid to drive it on the freeway because it is so loud. Did they finally figure out what was wrong with it?
#283 of 292 Volkswagon Jetta Engine ABA or AEG
Oct 17, 2011 (12:38 pm)
can anyone assist me on how to determine whether the 99 jetta engine is aba or aeg
#284 of 292 Re: Volkswagon Jetta Engine ABA or AEG [bravura]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Oct 17, 2011 (12:57 pm)
The engine code and engine number (serial number) are die-stamped on the front of the cylinder block above the crankcase breather.
In addition, an adhesive label on the drive belt cover lists the engine code and engine number.
The engine code is also listed on the vehicle identification sticker in the luggage compartment.
#285 of 292 2004 Turbo Gas no fuel
May 01, 2012 (9:04 pm)
Car cut out. Spark and Compression are fine. Plugs are dry, so my diagnosis is lack of fuel...either plugged filter (or bad fuel pump) Car has about 140k miles on it and it looks to be an older filter (yes I know, daughters car for a long time that we bought foir other daughter). She usually had work done somewhere.
Anyway, how does one release the fuel line connections? There are two very small holes on the connector - is there a special tool that goes in there or does it use the knid that goes in via the end of the line and spreads out the clip?
In either case, is it a sized tool only for the German cars, or a standardized size.
I've poked, probed and chanted...have yet to call a voodoo doctor or Mr. Spock to put the Vulcan pinch on it.
Thanks in advance.
#286 of 292 Disable "self-lock" feature on Golf
May 02, 2012 (8:11 am)
Hey All: 2006 Golf w/ 86k miles. Typical annoying VW electrical "ghosts". Locks are supposed to self-lock after about one minute if no doors are opened (safety feature which re-locks the doors if unlocked due to remote "unlock" button being inadvertantly depressed). So...prob is, I assume, that the sensor on the driver door latch has failed, so the self-lock mechanism doesn't know the driver door has been opened, and the automatic locking activates anyway. Very annoying, and also presents the issue of the keys being locked in the car if you leave them inside (as my son discovered a few months back). All this to say...is it possible to disable the self-lock feature? I have access to a VAG-COM. I would just as soon NOT spend $200 for a new latch plus several hours of labor tearing the door apart. Or am I on the wrong track here...some other solution that might be offered? Help! Thanks...vwdawg.
#287 of 292 Re: 2004 Turbo Gas no fuel [shelfer]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
May 02, 2012 (8:43 am)
You should be able to pop the cover off the fuel pump---then briefly crank the starter motor or have someone do that (work safely!). You should hear the fuel pump start up audibly. If it doesn't, then I'd check the fuse circuit for the fuel pump (I think it is #G6) and if that's okay, then the fuel pump relay is suspect.
You can also check for fuel in the fuel rail by depressing the little Schrader valve under the hood (wear safety glasses to protect your eyes).
#288 of 292 Re: 2004 Turbo Gas no fuel [Mr_Shiftright]
May 02, 2012 (6:30 pm)
I can pretty-much GUARANTEE that your no-start problem is not caused by fuel-filter.
You should be able to hear the fuel-pump run for about 3 seconds if you turn the key to "ON" without cranking the engine. (Some older VWs even pre-pressurized the fuel-system when you opened the drivers door... I know my daughters Gulf did that)
Also check fuel-pump fuse and relay.
#289 of 292 Re: 2004 Turbo Gas no fuel [bpeebles]
May 04, 2012 (7:34 pm)
Actually figured out how to undo the clips-
Careful scrutiny and voodoo (with chanting) revealed that the outermost portion of the clip, directly across from the two pin holes was indeed a small button (raised about 1 mm high) which relased the grip on the fitting. An interior panel tool worked well to remove the line.
After a voltage test on the wiring on the connector to the fuel pump (the two outermost wires) revealed that the voltage was getting to the connector.
The pump did not hum, so I have taken it out, and then connected it directly to the battery, with the wires attached to the pump itself.
Chanting and more voodoo did not bring it back to life.
Thus, a new fuel pum, with gauge float and rheostat has been ordered and should arrive in a day or so.
I will certainly post if this was indeed the culprit when it it returned to life, as I hate diagnostic threads without conclusions and eventual success.
#290 of 292 Re: 2004 Turbo Gas no fuel [shelfer]
May 15, 2012 (11:28 pm)
OK. It was indeed the fuel pump. However, for 2004, there are appapently 2 diffent size flanges on teh top of the fuel pimp where it goes into the tank. One measures about 5 inches across in diameter, the other is 5.5 in diameter.
Of course, I ended up getting the wrong size off of an online order, so I disconnected the float and wiring from the new unit as well as the fuel lines and connected them to the old top flange.
Cost of new pump was $80 on line, much better than via a parts house around here where pirices ranged from $218 - $308.
Reinstalled it and away we went (of course I tested it for hum prior to putting it in the tank - older unit had no hum at all, see earlier post).
Car has much better acceleration now than it has had for some time, leading me to believe that the fuel flow volume was down or just that the pressure was not coming from the pump as it should have been.
For those that wish to test the unit in the car also - the outermost wires on the connection plug are the ones that power the fuel pump. You can check for current with the key on at that point (Seeing if the relay is still supplying power.)
I would also guess that one could bypass the relay in order to run the pump in an emergency situation if the relay was bad.
I put my findings out here so hopefully they will aid someone else in the future.