Last post on Oct 16, 2013 at 7:57 PM
You are in the Chrysler 300M
What is this discussion about?
Chrysler 300M, Sedan
This topic covers any issues related to hard starting, no starts, stalling and erratic idling problems.
#166 of 232 Re: 99 300m [ndavies1]
Jun 04, 2012 (8:09 pm)
Please , DO NOT MAKE ME LAUGH ! A owner's manual is NOT what I am offering to other fellow 300M owners. I am offering the actual Chrysler Service Technician's Manual which are over 10,000 pages long and legal sized sheets. As it is right now I am working on placing the manuals for download in several places , but for now I will send the entire collection (this pile would be feet thick) , to anyone who provides me with their email address (no spamming intended etc. - forgotten) through my yahoo. Yahoo now provides provision for up to 2gb email attachments to be sent , with the NEW YAHOO version. The manuals compile into approx. 400mb , which the old classic version does not allow. I am also sending the manuals on disk by snailmail to addresses free of charge to let others see these things. For example : brakes / 1699 pages. Let me know if you want them as I cannot as of yet (too busy) to upload them to another place (link). Make no mistake , I AM GIVING THESE AWAY FREE. YES , I said "free" , and I don't spam , collect , save or use email addresses for my business. I have no time for that.
#167 of 232 Re: 99 300m [pitmanoeuvre]
Jul 17, 2012 (1:23 pm)
I am interested in the free Chrysler Service Technicians Manual. Please of course.
Jul 17, 2012 (7:25 pm)
I recently attempted to use the 2gb of new Yahoo Mail to attach the entire manuals (400+mb) , but discovered that the system only allows limited numbers of attachments (IE: 15 at a time etc.) , so attaching 40 or 50 seperate PDF's into emails is a chore. It's best to trust me , and send me an email containing your street or business address , so that a complete original copy on disk can be sent to you. This disk can then be loaded into any computer , copied , and used on a laptop in a garage etc. Otherwise , it is a very laborious task to send these by email. At the same time , I discovered a cost of just 1 original Chrysler Service Manual for the 1999 300M was $85 US dollars + shipping & tax. So... what I am offering includes 300M's / Intrepids & Concordes , for 5+ years in their entirety. I still to this day have no idea how many pages there are.
Since I do not get many people asking for these indepth manuals , very unlike Haynes , where the information is NOT coming directly from Chrysler instructions , I can afford to drop these in the mail for those who do want them (FREE) for a few dollars / disk. From my point of view , that isn't much money , to be able to share what is definately very huge in terms of technical reading. All you have to do is send an email to : bhthwhyahoo.ca - and include the destination address where you would like the disk to be mailed to. No solicitation , emails , offers , or any other spam type emails other than a confirmation directly from me will arrive in your email box , or at your chosen address. This is the best way , as my computer is creating flawless copies that work just as well as the original I have. Don't hesitate to ask for this , because I have only sent 1 disk via snailmail to date , to someone who absolutely wanted the manuals , and gave me an address to mail to. That's all that is required.
#169 of 232 Re: 99 300m [pitmanoeuvre]
Aug 06, 2012 (3:05 pm)
Hello! We are going to go crazy if we can not start my 2000 300M. Timing belt, waterpump, 3 sensors, a relay so far have all been replaced. Everything is connecting. It just isn't catching a spark. It wants to start but just won't. It even has had the battery jumped off. I am desperate. Our family depends on this vehicle. Is there anyway that you could send me a copy of the manual you are speaking of? We have a Haynes manual but I don't why it's like it just isn't enough info. I thank you for any help you give in advanced. jatwil42yahoo.com.
#170 of 232 Re: 99 300m [jatwil42]
Aug 06, 2012 (6:26 pm)
jatwil42 : Any time any engine that almost starts , sputters or whatever - I always do 2 things. The very first , is to pull out any spark plug and attach it to a clamping device (I make my own) which will allow you to rebolt the clamp onto a grounding surface (preferably the engine block) , so that you can have a helper attempt to spot any spark coming from the coil , when the engine is being cranked over. For safety's sake , it would be best to mark and remove all coils/spark plugs , so that the engine will not start in the process. Nothing like having an engine start with 1 wire sparking outside the motor. That's not really safe. In alot of cases , you can get a shock from the wire or boot too , it happened to me and nearly killed me. I was holding a wire off of a high performance engine which had the large size Accel Supercoil , and was running. I got out of the car to check a sputter , but should have shut it off before laying my hand on the inner fender , which just happened to be exactly where a wire had jumped off. I touched it and got stuck to it like magnetics. Good thing a friend was with me and pulled me off the wire. That took some guts , as those coils can produce up to 40,000 volts. In the case of the 300M , each spark plug has it's own coil , so each one may need to be done to identify a couple or a few or more coils/spark plugs which are faulty. This can also be done better at dusk or in dim lighting so that you can see any difference in the spark size (brightness). If any coil & spark plug combination produces a very dim spark (as opposed to any of the others) , chances are the coils for those cylinders are hardly working. That will cause an engine to sputter and be unable to run normally every time.
The 2nd thing I would check is the fuel delivery system. (You must ensure that you check the spark of the plugs/coils first , as you don't want to be testing open sparks after you have opened the fuel lines , or you have gas fumes in your garage etc.) The order of testing is important. Without spark , or ample relative spark across all 6 cylinders , there is no need to question the fuel system until the spark is adequate throughout each cylinder.
Alot of times I have found profusely blocked fuel line filters , which wouldn't allow enough fuel through them to be passed onto the injectors. This will create a no start or coughing condition at the cylinders. NOT ENOUGH GAS. On the 300M , you lift the rear seat and the fuel line filter is attached on top of the gas tank. If it appears brown or discoloured , it's been overlooked , and not changed , possibly since new. Change that in line filter and pay close attention to the directional instructions of the filter. Most have an arrow indicating the direction of fuel flow. Flow should obviously be directed to the engine.
***If you want the Chrysler Service manuals , it's best to get them on the CD I provide , so that you can view them in PDF format (Adobe Reader) , on a laptop or computer while you work on the car itself. About a week ago someone else took me up on my free offer , so I sent the entire 10,000+ page collection to Ohio for $2.80. It's free if the cost is under $5.00. All you have to do is send your mailing address , or the address that you want the disk to arrive at to me into my email box : bhthwhyahoo.ca
I will send the CD out to you right away.
**One other note : is that the 300M's computer system etc. pays close attention , and relies upon the signals coming from each spark plug etc. If just 1 of the coils or spark plugs is bad , the engine timing etc. cannot be properly calculated by the computer (electronic system etc.) , to be automatically adjusted for best performance : IE : idling. This is also why it is of the utmost importance to stick with the factory recommended spark plugs etc. I use the NGK - Laser Platinum Premium spark plugs on my 2002 300M Special (3.5L High Output Special - dual exhaust) [ NGK # ZFR5LP-13G spark plugs] Any decent parts store will caution you not to try different spark plugs , as they have had returns because of poor to bad performance. The proper spark plugs for your engine should be on the radiator / hood latch support decal. If not , check with a Chrysler dealer etc.
#171 of 232 Re: 2002 300M starter clicks but later starts. Starte replaced 8 times now [jcpaintworkz]
Oct 09, 2012 (5:58 pm)
Starter problems solved -Now!!!
FIRST --THE BATTERY : Charge the battery fully. See if car starts.
2nd Clean the battery posts taking care not to reduce the size of the posts, negative post in particular
3rd Most important -- clean the negative ground sites.. that means take a wire brush, clean off all paint, dirt, grease to the metal surface!!. Clean the negative ground site on all the negative cables, connections, including the fuse box and if possible the positive cable sites thoroughly. Spray hair spray over the connections sites when finished. ( has shellack in it -prevents corrision)
3-A if car starts ck battery fully ,,see if alternator is charging - a freebie auto zone!
4 start car.
5 If starter is turning over, not starting -- replace the starter relay in the fuse box !!
.6 start the car.
6.-A If not starting starter is cranking engine push accelerator to the floor !
Hold accelerator to the floor cranking engine 20 seconds. Stop,, wait 10 full minutes start car if car starts you have injector issues or sensors
7 ,if not starting ,,starter is working ,, disconnect the negative cable,again.
wait 1 full minute -reconnect this clears sensor codes. if car starts its a sensor problem
8 if car does not start fuel pump may be defective and/ or fuel filter
put your nose to the end of the car exhaust area --smell any gas? If not fuel pump problem.
9. You smell fuel not starting ,, take a spark plug out be sure to ground it on the engine,,,see if a park is seen. If not ck the coils .
10. if spark is seen ck plugs if not ok-- replace plugs with Champion plugs.(OEM)
11. car still does not start ,, recharge battery,,
If it starts most likely car starts when cold,,, either starter relay or injectors are bad.
If when car is hot when it stalls you have problems , ck the EGR valve this is under the windshield wiper are ,, a pro mechanic needs to do this as its hard hard work.
11.A injectors when hot can leak fuel,, the fuel rail has to be depressurized
by pulling the fuel fuse & cranking the engine for 20 seconds Then you can take out the fuel injector line after -- you take out the windshield wiper cowling ck for leaks by pressurizing fuel rail injector line , ( keep under pressure for 30 seconds looking for leaks.
12 None of the above apply ,, ck computer codes ,,gas cap,, cannister codes.
13 its time for the stealership, as most likley the ECM is shot!!
Crankshaft sensor ,camshaft sensors can be faulty ,, ck with Auto zone if you can most often these are ok, they go at about 100k so look at your mileage. codes should have shown up if car is running.
#172 of 232 Re: 2002 300M starter clicks but later starts. Starte replaced 8 times now [jacksyak]
Oct 09, 2012 (7:57 pm)
To clarify what it means when your starter , just clicks - it means 1of2 things or both are wrong. Firstly , the starter solenoid (which is primarily , just a switch that is connected to your ignition key cylinder - which resides in conjunction with the starter motor inner mechanism) is worn out , or more often than not , the starter motor armature is worn to a point where it no longer turns freely. This is called : wedging or jamming (out of center alignment of the armature with the field winding contacts). In a starter there is an armature , very much like the ones inside of a drill motor , which spins whenever the solenoid contacts are fed power through the ignition cylinder key power connections. When the starter motor is worn , it can't spin freely or properly even if and when the solenoid contacts are working , which cause power to enter the starter armature. This is why you only hear a "click". Sometimes , this "click" will occur , followed by the starter actually turning the motor - and is a telltale sign that the starter motor is worn , or is about to fail soon (normally). But - if your starter has been installed incorrectly , where the inner worm gear is misaligned , you can hear the solenoid switch "CLICK" , because the worm gear is jamming. This is common , "IF" , the starter motor is not installed correctly. Normally , any time you turn the ignition key to the start position , you should hear the starter turn the motor - or attempt to. Clicking solenoids can be heard where the engine will not turn as well. This is why - clicking solenoid sounds on their own , are NOT NORMAL.
Then lastly , besides both the starter motor solenoid , or the starter motor armature , there still remains the possibility that the starter has not been carefully mounted into it's proper mounting position. If a replacement starter assembly (both new - solenoid and starter motor inside a refurbished or new casing) are "THROWN" into a transmission casing mount without clearing any corrosion/debris/rust/unevenness etc. , the new starter can possibly jam when used. What happens in this case , is that the "worm gear" attached to the starter solenoid/armature , misaligns itself with the flywheel or any other type of connecting gear which turns the engine , when the key is turned to the start position. The worm gear is specially designed to spin towards the connecting engine turning gear , whenever power is fed to the solenoid/armature. When you release the key from the start position , power no longer activates the worm gear , thus the starter is then entirely in a neutral position , where the worm gear is also in a neutral position. You have to be wary of a mechanic who does not pay close attention to the alignment of the starter motor casing/s , so that they fit flush , where there is no odd looking connection made with the 2 casings. The existing casing , can be sanded or filed to ensure a good fit with any new starter , while you can have alot of problems if a new starter is "THROWN" into it's position carelessly. Even bolting the new starter on can be done incorrectly when the alignment was not paid any attention. When you allow this type of repair to occur , chances are - you might have trouble down the road , or just around the next corner.
*In fact - this has happened to me with a Ford Dealership , where I got into my pickup after driving it approx. 50miles (after having engine work done where the starter had to be removed & reinstalled) [the starter was only a month old] , and the starter turned over , but wouldn't stop spinning - so the engine was running with the worm gear in it's engagement position with the flywheel. I was not going to drive it like that - so , being that even when the key position was in the run position - the starter was still running at a high rate of speed , I had to get out and take off the positive battery terminal cable to get the whole mess to stop. I restarted it , and luckily I got it home , where I released the starter bolts / removed the starter , and then "reinstalled" the starter - where there were no problems afterwards , for years. I even sold the vehicle , after a couple years , and the new owner , didn't have any problem either. To be specific : when you install a starter , 1 hand should be holding the starter casing/assembly in it's proper position , and pressing towards the mount (from it's end) [not from it's side etc.) , while the other hand is torquing the nuts or bolts tight. This is where it also means alot , as you have to do both simultaneously , without allowing the starter to shift. And - you don't just snug up or finger tighten the nuts or bolts - you have to be torquing the nuts or bolts while you are maintaining the proper starter motor position. Finger tightening while the starter is held from behind , is not enough , and then returning to torque the bolts - because the starter can still slightly shift where you didn't see or feel it happen. "Works every time".
#174 of 232 Re: 99 300m [pitmanoeuvre]
Jan 31, 2013 (1:13 am)
I would like to get a copy too, I'm so frustrated having changed cam & crank sensors and still not able to start my car. It started fine a few weeks ago. I just read about the key lockout issue and hoping it might be that. Can you use Dropbox it make the pdf downloadable.
#175 of 232 Re: 99 300m [genenyc]
Jan 31, 2013 (4:49 pm)
Just this past 10 days or so alone , (8) owners have received the extensive 300M Chrysler Service Manuals from me - so , there is a postage cost involved in receiving it now , as the total sent is reaching 35~40 thus far. Plus the Canada Post Office nearest me , decided to make some money off of all of this - by ripping me off , and stating (charging) me , 50% more above the original and "LEGAL" costs - on their own private accord. This was confirmed by me personally at another Canada Post Office , who actually charged me less than the original costs I was paying (prior to the 50% hike claimed by my local office). I DO NOT provide the 10,000+ pages service manuals for download online - but , if you send me your name and the address where you want it shipped to (and agree to send me ample postage to my address in return to cover postage costs) , I will send you a copy of the manual compilation. Let me know at : bhthwhyahoo.ca