Last post on Oct 16, 2013 at 7:57 PM
You are in the Chrysler 300M
What is this discussion about?
Chrysler 300M, Sedan
This topic covers any issues related to hard starting, no starts, stalling and erratic idling problems.
#156 of 232 Re: Wont start [mike1982]
Jan 21, 2012 (7:59 am)
I turn key so the dash lights come on and the dinging sound starts.
Do nothing until dinging stops.
Then turn key to start car.
Also I use a bottle of fule line cleaner about $8 each tankful
Above works for me.
Good luck to you
#157 of 232 Not starting after driving long distances
Jan 21, 2012 (2:50 pm)
I have a 99 300m with 230,000 miles on it. When i drive long distances say like a half hour away from my house and back it won't start if i go to turn it off and then back on. I try to turn it on and the car wont roll over. I can't even do errands in this car because of this. Lately it has been happening frequently. I am so afraid i will get stuck i wont even turn my car off at the gas station because this has happened to me there before. Sometimes i can get it to start if i pump the gas pedal while turning the key in the ignition. It will only start if it sits for like an hour or so then i can get it to start. The check engine light comes on every now and then when it happens, then goes away eventually. I was told it was the fuel pump from a friend who had a similar problem. Help, what is this??
#158 of 232 Re: Not starting after driving long distances [vanessan]
Jan 27, 2012 (9:06 pm)
I have been having this problem since July 2011....I read somewhere that if you turn the car off and then turn the key on and off about three times in succession, without actually turning the key far enough to turn the engine over, the car will start. I have done performed this remedy on three occasions and it works like a charm. I have not had to walk home recently.....only to return to my car an hour later and have it start. I have brought the car in and no one can seem to find anything wrong with it.
#159 of 232 Re: Not starting after driving long distances [nrjyzrbunny]
Jan 28, 2012 (3:49 am)
Thanks, i will have to try this. Hopefully it works for me!
#160 of 232 Please Help! 300m started 3 times and died now nothing.
Apr 27, 2012 (6:50 pm)
I have a 2000 300m one day I go to start the car and it started right up and died. So I tried to start it 2 more times and it started and died right away. The starter tested good. I checked all the fuses and relays also. I checked the fuel and fuel pump. When I turn the key the only light that comes on the dash is the red oil light no abs light no battery light or anything. I got another ecm and it then started 3 times and died and then I tried one more and nothing just like before I changed it. The cars lights work and power windows and locks work. If it matters I do have a grey key with a chip. One guy told me it could be the chip in the key went bad can that be my problem. Please help.
#161 of 232 Re: Please Help! 300m started 3 times and died now nothing. [gottahavswag]
Apr 28, 2012 (2:56 pm)
I remember I found a site that showed me how to turn the key 3xs without starting the car so that I could get the trouble code on the dash, it turned out my crank sensor was bad. Had it replaced along with the cam sensor and the car started and ran good ever since. Hope this helps.
#162 of 232 Re: Please Help! 300m started 3 times and died now nothing. [gottahavswag]
Apr 29, 2012 (8:03 am)
Given your descriptions of the problem , you should be mostly concentrated on the fact that your entire dash cluster of sensor lights are not illuminating when the key is moved into the run position prior to actually starting the engine.
The very first thing to do is to disconnect the fender ground connection and inspect the battery / including mainly it's cables. If the battery power cable is hard as a rock / unflexible , nearest the battery , it is time to splice a 12" section onto the cable terminals , or replace the entire cable. This can and does account for alot on a vehicle with a massive or sensitive electrical system. At this point , if this condition exists , there is no point checking any of the PDC relays or fuses. It is possible that your (ASD Relay) Automatic Shutdown Relay is working as normal , where the voltage is either inconsistent or inadequate. The ASD Relay is in the (PDC) Powertrain Control Center , where you will also find at least 1 power cable connected. It must be free of rust and corrosion. The PDC plastic cover should indicate where the ASD Relay is. Simply measuring a voltage at the ASD Relay contacts could tell you alot , but the ASD Relay itself must also conduct whatever voltage is input into it as well. Any time there is a fluctuation or problem in the electrical system , the ASD Relay shuts the system down.
Given that the engine starts , that indicates that there isn't any "on engine" sensor problems , although there may be wiring problems / conductivity. Something as simple as a transmission position sensor , could also cause a fault in the electrical system , where the ASD Relay will be triggered. The transmission position sensor must pass the startup electrical procedure , as all of the sensors must. This is why it is very important that you see the maximum of lights light up when you turn the key to the on/run position. Starting by checking the battery fill and power output , and all of it's related cables and connections , can provide you with lights in the dash lighting up after you make changes. That would confirm why the engine is starting up , and then being shut down repeatedly.
Bad battery cables are the most common reasons why electrical problems exist , and even a tester connected to the vehicle at a garage cannot perform properly , or display a proper diagnosis without adequate power from the battery etc. Usually the first 2 feet of both battery cables are the problem , as they are corroding at one end , and being heated by the engine/exhaust at the other within 2 feet. This creates a void where electrical current is irratic / inadequate / non-existent or too variable for the vehicle's electrical system to ignore as "normal".
The worst case scenario I have ever seen hidden , was on a semi tractor , where 2 full feet of cables were stuck together as a result of friction between the 2 cables. Bare cable of 1 cable was touching the other full time and accounted for minor intermittent problems as well as a lack of electrical power. In a 4 battery linked system , everything worked but not reliably , where any problems were never diagnosed to any avail. They could only be temporarily improved. To think that those cables were making contact while over 300 gallons of diesel capacity was within a few feet , speaks volumes about actually taking any wrapping or securing apparatus from these cables to ensure they are in good condition where they come together. Assuming that a meter can tell you otherwise is not the answer , where the vehicle has had radio/amplifier/lighting and starting problems , usually coupled with constant battery and alternator problems. These sections are the heart of any electrical system.
The effect is that the alternator voltage cannot get to the battery to maintain the battery's charge or state of charge , and the battery's voltage cannot provide the electrical system with a consistent and necessary voltage that is constantly monitored and regulated by electrical circuits/components/computers etc. The exact same symptoms many owners have can be repeated , by connecting a very bad battery to the vehicle and driven. No charging can occur regardless of any electrical cables or wiring , due to a faulty battery. This makes it so that your dash lights may be dim , your turn signals may not function correctly (they do not flash simultaneously) , your radio/stereo is faint , your starter turns over slowly , your engine coil or coils do not produce enough power to allow a proper spark through the spark plugs to the engine cylinders/gas mixture injection etc. etc. The vehicle will probably chug , have poor braking or steering on vehicles equipped with electrical assist or sensors , and in general be a pain in the butt. Always having some sort of problem.
The code for an ASD Relay problem or shutdown is : P1388 on a 2000 300m. In a case where the starter solenoid no longer clicks or is charged with power , where the starter was turning previously , you have yet another hidden connection that is faulty within the solenoid. You can determine this with a fully charged or new battery , where the solenoid suddenly clicks or the starter begins to turn. But after repeating the process the more powerful battery will allow you to determine that the solenoid has a short connection internally. Just 2 small wires can cause an immediate reaction from the ASD Relay , where no power will any longer reach the solenoid as well. Measuring the voltage to the solenoid is of no concern , what is of concern is that the solenoid is shorted , causing an ASD Relay shutdown. Even while the starter motor itself is still good.
#163 of 232 Re: Not starting after driving long distances [nrjyzrbunny]
Apr 29, 2012 (7:46 am)
I just learned that when you turn the key to on position the fule pump
runs for 2 seconds. It was suggested I do this 2 or 3 times before starting.
Someone mentioned cam / crankshaft sensors..I just got a code for one of them. I'm having them replaced also the O2 sensor.
#164 of 232 Re: 99 300m [pitmanoeuvre]
Jun 04, 2012 (10:24 am)
I was wondering if i could get a copy of the full Chrysler Technician Service Manuals ..let me know i am having a problem with my car not starting
#165 of 232 Re: 99 300m [ndavies1]
Jun 04, 2012 (2:32 pm)
I would suggest you try looking for it on ebay or if you have a auto used parts yard where you can go and pull the part yourself, you may be able to find a 300m that still has a manual in it.