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Chrysler 300M Starting/Stalling problems

195 messages,  Last post on May 16, 2013 at 9:57 AM

You are in the Chrysler 300M Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chrysler 300M, Sedan

This topic covers any issues related to hard starting, no starts, stalling and erratic idling problems.

Messages Page 15 of 20

#136 of 195 Re: Good turn over NO start 1st of day only [loual] by kirstie_h HOST

Aug 24, 2011 (7:09 am)

Replying to: loual (Aug 23, 2011 12:53 pm)
We had a similar experience with our pickup this past Winter. You might have someone check the fuel pump - that's what it was for us.
 
One thing that helped was never allowing the gas tank to dip below 1/4 full. We also put some HEET in the gas tank - you have to be careful about that, because doing it often will break down seals & such. But, you might try that in case there's moisture in your gas tank. This was also one of our issues (before the fuel pump croaked).

#137 of 195 Re: Reset theft security system 20000 300 m [mas1487us] by jmr7431

Sep 07, 2011 (12:39 pm)

Replying to: mas1487us (Aug 14, 2010 12:05 am)
i think the cheap on your key dont work try a different key i had the same problem with a buik .

#138 of 195 2004 Chrysler 300M starting problem by rmiller0070

Oct 03, 2011 (11:32 am)

I have a starting problem with my 2004 Chrysler 300m (OD: 51,000 miles). When I turn the ignition the car cranks over and over but does not start. I can hold the ignition switch and allow it to crank for a full minute but I won’t start. This happens about 75% of the time, BUT the other 25% it starts with the first crank with no problem.
Symptom 2: With the car running or parked, pressing the gas pedal to the floor the enignine oscillates at rpm’s over 4000, revving up and down very rapidly until I let off the gas pedal and the engine returns to a lower rpm. At lower rpms it does not do this, only at high rpm`s.
Symptom 3: While driving with the cruise control set to on, the cruise control will all of a sudden disengage.
I really appreciate the help you all have given to people and hope you can help me as well.

#139 of 195 Re: 2004 Chrysler 300M starting problem [rmiller0070] by loual

Oct 03, 2011 (1:30 pm)

Replying to: rmiller0070 (Oct 03, 2011 11:32 am)
I have same thing FIRST start of the day.
To "solve" it I turn key to full on position which allows dash light
and beeping to begin. Wait 10 or 15 seconds ( listen for a pumping
sound ) after the wait start the car.
Also I started putting cleaner into my gas
In past I did hear pump sound,...now not
I may be nuts but that's my story.
Best of luck.
SYM # 2 = ????

#140 of 195 Re: 2004 Chrysler 300M starting problem [rmiller0070] by pitmanoeuvre

Oct 10, 2011 (6:22 am)

Replying to: rmiller0070 (Oct 03, 2011 11:32 am)
This sounds like it could be a fuel problem. There is a fuel line filter under the rear seat which should be changed about every 5 years regardless of mileage. This would explain the high rpm incapability (not enough fuel in the restricted line) , non-starting and - you may experience rough idle or even stalling after hard stopping , due to condensation building up inside a clogged (abnormal) fuel line filter in wet and/or cold conditions.
 
Another contributing factor , are the spark plugs - they MUST be the Premium Laser Platinum type (NGK - ZFR5LP-13G or whatever is on your fan support identification label to the left of the hood release latch). This spark plug identification is updated on all models and years for each specific application. Changing these spark plugs to any sort of new (more efficient) styles , effects the computer/engine calibration. Usually causing all sorts of minor problems with the engine performance.
 
At 51,000 miles - I would be checking the spark plugs first , as it is common practice for some (non-dealer) garages / diy'ers / to assume that equivalent spark plugs are adequate. They are NOT , after as little as a week or so you may experience a negative change in engine performance. Upon initial inspection of the spark plugs - you should be noting any signs of brown rusty looking residue or burn marks on the spark plug electrodes (white porcelain top part) where the actual tightening nut "ring" meets the porcelain protector/insulator. Any sign of rust on the porcelain means the inner core conductor is worn out / burned or rusted due to dampness / careless overwashing of the motor where water has seeped down into the spark plug sockets - past the rubber connector boot - or that the spark plugs are generally faulty / worn.
 
If you are in total doubt , you could also just add some (gas line antifreeze) into the gas tank (only stuff I really trust and have had 100% consistant luck with - others are too technically involved with make , model , condition , chemical etc. - can cause a worse condition) so that you can note any change from the gas line antifreeze diluting any moisture or water that may be building up in the gas line filter. If the engine were to suddenly start , run and perform better (you would know the filter is the problem - clogged). These filters break down inside themselves after a while , where the deposits , sludge of their own material will restrict the flow and contaminate the fuel itself after about 5 years. It is NOT a good idea to pour aftermarket chemicals into the gas tank for ANY reason. At the very least you can damage your injectors , if a very tiny piece/s of debris is dislodged in the fuel line and gets trapped at the injectors.
 
It's best to stay away from ANY harsh chemicals that may even break down the inline fuel filter material prematurely for these reasons. There is nothing like finding out after 6 months of using a chemical , that it causes problems in lower temperatures or vice-versa. By then it's too late , the injectors can be damaged or clogged.
 
If there is NO fuel line filter or spark plug problems after checking/replacing these 2 , it would be a good idea to question the connectivity of the battery terminals / clamps and wiring coming off of the battery itself. A poor connection to either power + or ground - , could explain intermitant power supply to the ignition / spark plugs / coils etc.

#141 of 195 Re: A REAL ANSWER PLEASE [mychryslerwoes] by kkudirko

Oct 23, 2011 (3:03 am)

Replying to: mychryslerwoes (Dec 13, 2010 10:50 am)
did you find out what was wrong with your car and how you fixed it?

#142 of 195 99 300m by ryand2

Nov 29, 2011 (4:48 pm)

Hi I have a 99 300m I've recently replaced the battery, cam sensor, spark plugs, coil #4, and my fuel pump but the car still shuts off while I'm driving. What could be the reason for this?

#143 of 195 Re: 99 300m [ryand2] by pitmanoeuvre

Nov 29, 2011 (7:10 pm)

Replying to: ryand2 (Nov 29, 2011 4:48 pm)
Does the engine sputter / stall out completely , or does the electrical drop out quickly? I suspect it is the latter , which is common when the electrical system has not been serviced properly.
 
I have the full Chrysler Technician Service Manuals , complete with full diagnostic and repair procedures for 99-04 300M's , including the Special etc. on CD. If you are interested , I could send you a full copy for your future use : FREE via mail. Let me know if you are interested , and I will quickly post my email address (then edit it out to refrain from offering a multitude). With Adobe Reader , you can view every single piece/part of the car , and any applicable symptom solutions. 10,000 pages +.
 
I'm busy right now , but I will come back and edit this post , to suggest a permanent fix to your problem , once I know more about what is actually happening when the car shuts off.

#144 of 195 Re: 99 300m [pitmanoeuvre] by ryand2

Nov 29, 2011 (7:23 pm)

Replying to: pitmanoeuvre (Nov 29, 2011 7:10 pm)
While I'm driving it just shuts off as if I was turning it off flat line what I call it

#145 of 195 2002 300M starter clicks but later starts. Starte replaced 8 times now by jcpaintworkz

Nov 29, 2011 (9:01 pm)

My wife has a 2002 300M. We have had it for a little over 3 years. We had issue with starter clicking. Had it replaced under the aftermarket warranty we bought from chrysler dealer. Well needless to say ever since we have had issues. They have been replacing them every time. Last time we took it to a chrysler dealership and had them diagnose it. They Came back with nothing. They have replaced the starter every time and it's been 7-8 times now and same issue. The most recent they supposingly put OEM starter on it and it's lasted almost a year this go around but still issues
 
Well now the car is out of the warranty and Chrysler is wanting 600 to replace starter cause they'll have to diagnose it again but the tech said it would be honestly waste of money since our records show same thing with nothing found.
 
We were driving the other day stopped to eat (it was raining outside) stopped for 45-1 hour. Went outside and just clicked nothing more. Got a ride home went back with some tools removed air filter housing and checked terminals everything seemed tight as I could feel. Tried jumping it still nothing. Slammed hood several times still nothing
 
Tow truck shows up next morning and it fires right up. He shut it off 3 times and fired back up each time no problem. We went ahead and had it towed he pulls it up on the truck to try agaiand it wouldn't start. So we towed it to my moms house her husband has a shop with lift etc.
 
I haven't been out there yet as family emergency came up but he said he's been out there the past 2 days and tried starting it numerous times right after each other and it fires right up like nothing is wrong.
 
Im at a lost for words. I have no clue where to start. I'm kinda strapped for money right now but don't mind forking it out if it's a actual fix and not same thing we have been doing. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP!!!

Messages Page 15 of 20

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