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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Hyundai Entourage Prices Paid and Buying Experience
175 messages, Last post on Jul 21, 2009 at 3:44 AM
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Replying to: Jason5 (Jun 29, 2006 2:49 am) We weren't in the market for things like DVD & power sliding doors & such, but the overall vehicle safety was the big thing for me in the end. The GLS had what we wanted for a price that we could live with. Price (via Costco discount) was $23905, which includes whatever delivery fees & the accessories that were on it... but that price also doesn't include DMV, tax, & the discount. Anyway, if what they showed us was right (per the Costco discount process), the GLS wasn't marked that much above the invoice price anyway. I think the rebate might end today... but you never know if they will extend it or have another rebate later.
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Replying to: Jason5 (Jun 29, 2006 2:49 am) My wife and I looked at and drove the Sienna, Quest, and Honda. We completely agreed that the Entourage suited us the best. No history yet, but we love the van. 
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Replying to: nathanl (Jul 04, 2006 4:53 pm)
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Replying to: wolverinejoe80 (Jul 10, 2006 5:42 pm) Entourage SE with 9" After Market DVD-LCD system (Audiovox) for $25300 (before $500 rebate), so an end price of $24800. I had a similar price with Kia EX model, with power package and rear entertainment system. Have I got a decent price or should I keep lobbying? Thanks. |
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Replying to: nathanl (Jul 04, 2006 4:53 pm) Please everyone, let us know what city/dealership you are commenting on. Thanks
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Replying to: equalizer7 (Jul 24, 2006 7:57 pm) I send an email to ask for quote and one dealer (near Norwood, MA) give me this. Year: 2007 Model: Entourage Trim: SE Transmission: 5-speed automatic transmission with SHIFTRONIC Package: Premium Package Exterior Color: Galaxy Black Interior Color: Beige Entourage Total MSRP* $27,695.00 Our current price is: 25,425 Edmunds list a invoice price of $25,785 and TMV of $26,962. so will this be a good deal or i can keep more green in my pocket? my current car is a nissan sentra so now way to get any loyalty or competitive rebates. Thanks!
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Replying to: cheungming (Aug 04, 2006 11:13 am) Don't know if this will help you, but it worked for me. Good Luck!
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Replying to: bigal38 (Aug 04, 2006 12:57 pm)  http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/messageview.php?catid=24&threadid=444610&highlig- ht_key=y&keyword1=car Regarding the AD price. I always found some small prints and then those price are not low at all. 
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I'm just a car buyer. I've never been on the other side of the car business. But I've walked from more than a few negotiations to be sure of where I'm at, and I think I might be able to help a few people wondering if they have a good deal. Car pricing is complex enough that just hearing the bottom line of the deal someone else got is not enough to determine if you got a good deal. And I'm NOT just talking about the games with trade-in and financing that have been rehashed many times. Ultimately the price is determined by how low the dealer is willing to go. It depends on what he wants as much as what you want. Here are several less-mentioned factors: * Is the vehicle desirable? Is the dealer having a hard time selling the vehicle? Has the car been on the lot so long that "floorplanning", dealer interest on the cost of his inventory--for that car specifically--gotten too high? * Is the dealer doing a dealer trade? If so, he has to negotiate with the other dealer? That could mean giving up a desirable car that he could sell. Or it could mean paying the other dealer some amount. There could be a rivalry or bad feeling between the dealers, which could make the deal harder for the dealer you are working with. You will get a better deal for something on the lot. Also, there is a real cost to transporting the vehicle between dealers, especially if it is a long way. If a trade is involved, you are probably better going directly to the dealer with the vehicle if you can find out. But beware, the dealer you are working with may try to keep you from finding out. * Is the closer or manager trying to teach a rookie salesmen a lesson by not going easy on you? If you know what you are doing, you will get farther, faster with an experienced salesman. The closer or manager will believe it more when the experienced guy says that you are a grinder. Ultimately, the price is what you agree to pay and what the dealer agrees to accept. Hard sell dealers (most of them) will do everything they can to get you to agree to something that you would not otherwise agree to if you had more information, especially the intricate details of his business, and more time. Just by the way, I had a dealer offer me INVOICE less HOLDBACK ($891) less REBATE ($500) for an undesirable 2007 Entourage on his lot. But I didn't want it. He would only go to INVOICE less REBATE ($500) on a dealer trade for the Entourage I wanted. But when he went to negotiate the trade with the other dealer, he couldn't make it work. I had to leave without a vehicle. So, an off-the-lot deal versus a difficult trade accounted for an $891 price difference. To really know where you stand, bargain for a while and then leave. Get roped back in. Maybe do it again. When you finally leave, you probably have that dealer's best price (unless maybe there is a rookie education going on). Don't worry if you're told that you won't get that price later. If the vehicle is still available, and the rebates haven't changed, you should be able to get that price. But things can change, like if another buyer being less a grinder than you comes along and wants the same vehicle. As I said before, if you knew the details of the dealer's business (and ultimately what he was thinking), then you would know if you got a good deal. From my experience, I'm not quite sure how bigal38 got INVOICE less $1650 less REBATE ($500) (post #283). I'm not saying that I think he didn't. I'm just not sure what motivated the dealer to go that low in his case. I would guess that you should be able to get something off the lot for INVOICE less $500 less REBATE ($500). Could be INVOICE less HOLDBACK ($891) less REBATE ($500) is readily doable for any off-the-lot deal. I don't really know. But I'm pretty sure about the final offers I got after walking from two dealers. Other comments welcome. It would really help if people who get smokin' deals would try to figure out and explain what factors might have been at work in their deals.
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Replying to: biggity (Aug 04, 2006 11:59 pm) If you want your best price, get up and walk away. Also be realistic. You are not going to get a 2007 model for $2,000 below invoice unless it is the last day of the month and that dealer needs one more deal to hit a bonus. We need to make money in order to stay in business. How much we make on a deal will vary, but we aren't going to sell a car under normal circumstances if we are losing money on it. |
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