39 messages,
Last post on Nov 29, 2012 at 6:52 PM
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Suzuki Wagons Forum.
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Suzuki Aerio, Suzuki Esteem, Electrical, Wagon
#31 of 39 Re: How do you open the hatch back when the key and remote fails to work. [mrslip1234]
by kcram HOST
May 15, 2009 (5:37 am)
Just so there's no confusion, I believe carthell is referring to the door lock switch on the inside of the door, where you would lock or unlock the doors while in the driver's seat.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
#32 of 39 Re: How do you open the hatch back when the key and remote fails to work. [kcram]
by carthell
May 15, 2009 (4:08 pm)
Never post around bedtime! Regretful things might be typed. Add "with the power lock button on the armrest" to the end of "Open the doors," and a complete, specific thought is formed. (Audience cheers, confetti falls from everywhere, the seas part...)
#33 of 39 2000 esteem wagon-crank position sensor location
by farmboy9
Jan 10, 2010 (12:03 pm)
#34 of 39 2000 esteem wagon-crank position sensor location
by farmboy9
Jan 10, 2010 (12:03 pm)
Where on this car is it located and what does it look like?
#35 of 39 My car keeps dying
by tray72
Mar 23, 2010 (11:41 am)
I have a 2003 Suzuki Aerio. I recently had a mechanic to change the starter because the car wouldn't start and I took it to Autozone who told me that it was probably the charging system. Well my mechanic put the new starter on and it ran fine for a week. All of the sudden yesterday I got in it to go to lunch and the dashboard started blinking on and off but the radio was still on and the car was still driving. I turned the car off and when I started it it cranked right up. Later that night it did the same thing and when I tried to start it it would not start. What could this be? Is there some sort of electrical problem like a safety switch issue or something?
#36 of 39 Re: My car keeps dying [tray72]
by carthell
Mar 23, 2010 (7:39 pm)
First, make sure that the battery terminals are securely connected to the battery cables. Earlier last year, I cleaned and sprayed lots of anti-corrosive on the terminals. Put the cables on as snugly as I could, and ran fine for 24 hours until I had to leave work. Turned the key: no cranking, no power, nothin'. Thought about if for a while, then used an insulated pair of pliers and a little brute force to push one of the cables fully on the terminal. Car fired up as usual.
Howzabout the generator? Did you have it tested? If you had the battery tested after each failure, and it is outputting less than 10 volts, the generator might be the problem.
#37 of 39 Re: My car keeps dying [carthell]
by tray72
Mar 24, 2010 (7:14 am)
I had the battery tested and it's really a fairly new battery too. It tested fine, there's no corrosion on it but I will have my friend to make sure the cables are fully on the terminal and I will ask him about the generator as well. Thanks.
#38 of 39 Re: My car keeps dying [tray72]
by mmaddalena3
Aug 19, 2012 (10:15 am)
I know this is an old post but I had this same trouble. The cable connecting to the battery frays something awful. If you re-twist it and cover it with silicone it will hold out.
#39 of 39 Re: Tailgate electrical problem - are there others with this? [Muddycat]
by mlagace
Nov 29, 2012 (6:52 pm)
I FOUND IT!
I had all the same problems.
Right Side of the car, under the back right side window, under the carpet and plastic, you have a bunch of connectors there, one of them is a two connector pair.
It was all brown instead of yellow, because of the heat of a faulty connection to the defroster, backup light, and all that.
It gets pretty hot even when the connection is good.
The ground is the black with silver spots cable.
Reconnected them properly and it works perfectly now.
Thanks for the hints people !!
Med