Last post on May 09, 2013 at 2:11 PM
You are in the Chrysler Sebring
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Chrysler Sebring, Convertible, Sedan
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#244 of 279 I got it fixed...
Mar 16, 2010 (10:22 pm)
Hi, I've received a couple e-mails asking whether I'd gotten my 2001 Chrysler Sebring Coupe LX fixed... it's been ages since I logged on here, but the last post just popped through so I figured I'd logon and reply.
Yes, I had the transmission fixed. Yes, unfortunately, it required a complete tranny rebuild. No, I didn't have a local trusted mechanic, but I went through the symptoms in detail with my brother (an ASE certified tech), who confirmed that I needed to see a transmission shop. (His recommendation was that, in place of a well-trusted indie shop, to go to Midas, but never the dealer.)
Midas gave me a $2300 estimate and promised to try and come in under estimate... which of course they didn't. So I shelled out the full $2300. Was it worth it? Back then, given the mileage on my car, the way it had been running before the problem, and the little driving I was doing, it did make sense vs. buying a new car.
I got rid of the Sebring a couple weeks ago because I moved from FL to PA, and with all the little things that were going wrong on the car, I was pretty sure it wouldn't pass a PA vehicle inspection. But I have to say, no complaints with the transmission job, it worked as promised and kept my car running well for a couple years afterward.
- If it happened to me today, I'd never fix the thing. Then again, the car had 160k+ miles when I traded it in.
- Mine was a Coupe LX -- some other posts are about Convertibles and Sedans. The coupe is a Chrysler-stickered Mitsubishi Eclipse, whereas the Convertible and Sedan, if I'm not mistaken, are all Mopar.
- The only problems I ever had with the car were related to the Chrysler parts -- the tranny is Mopar, even though the 3.0L engine is Mitsubishi. I also had the usual rotor problems and an issue with the steering just after it came out of the factory powertrain warranty a while back (of course).
- I noticed that a lot of small things started to die on the car related to age and use... while I surely got my money's worth, this was not a car built to last for the long term. But I guess the only way to get one of those anymore is to buy a Honda or Toyota. And actually many of these things would be tolerable, but I'm a pretty busy guy, so it's hard to justify time spent working on an older car.
- One of the reasons I decided it was worth putting money into the car is that I only paid $12,500 for it (new) in January 2002 -- the sticker was in the neighborhood of $21-23k. Those deals are very few and far between, and certainly not able to be had a couple years ago when I did this repair work.
Some unsolicited advice: If you really like it, and if everything else seems to be in perfect working order (think about rotting rubber parts, dying cylinders, worn-out steering, etc), it might be worth spending $2k to fix it. But today's car market is full of bargains, so look around before you leap.
Best of luck to everyone!
#245 of 279 engine loss
Apr 02, 2010 (9:17 pm)
83 MILES AFTER HAVING TRANS REBUILT CAR OVERHEATED. SHUT DOWN BUT TOO LATE. ENGINE GONE. NO COMPRESSION. NO WATER IN OIL BUT WON'T START. THIS WAS A STRONG RUNNING AND WELL MAINTAINED CAR. COULD THIS BE FAULT OF TRANS REMOVAL. I HAVE BEEN TOLD COOLANT PROBABLY WASN'T BLEAD DOWN CORRECTLY. TRANS PLACE STATES THEY DON'T UNHOOK ANY COOLANT LINES. WHAT IS PROCEDURE. HARD TOO BELIEVE THIS ISN'T RELATED. THANKS FOR ANY HELP.
#246 of 279 Re: engine loss [tillli]
Apr 02, 2010 (9:24 pm)
wow thats fricking horible how many miles u have on your moter / what yr mines 100 000 miiles 96 my oil light flickers change oil sending unit plug 30 bucks dealer trainie i redid soiniod body on mine just all fuilds ? what about crank sensor that will act like its total dead u ever chenae it ? if noit do that before u buy dam moter k
Apr 02, 2010 (9:26 pm)
bad thermostat also wide open shut cuse overheating ok cheak coolent resvior level is that up and in main silver steall thing pop open coolant there also ? try crank sensor if itstotal dead get self new thermostat after that ok moter just dont die if your over 105 thos miles did u do timing belt and water pump is a must in manaul says to
#248 of 279 Re: 97 sebring convertible in limp home mode [jbrocaleb]
Apr 02, 2010 (9:36 pm)
change soiniod body on trainy ok what makes it shift like hsit not trainie guys its soiniod body failin acting up 150 bucks 80 labor shoots fuild to gears when need sit oppens up these slides that soiniod body on trainie is what goes wrong with my 96 jxi conv serv at 70 thos miles now i have 100 000 still goood
Apr 02, 2010 (9:38 pm)
to one guy again moter dide what about distubuter plugs ect new valve covers tube seals is must oil goes in plugs on thesse screws it all up ownt start or die didbuter ok known on these to fail mine did same thing no start at all sucks or crank sensor will do this also bs im ready to trad ein get mustang 09 conv way shouve be built
#250 of 279 harsh downshift
Apr 27, 2010 (9:56 am)
2002 sebring Harsh downshift at 28 mph otherwise works perfect Changed ATF4 filter and solonid body
#251 of 279 Re: harsh downshift [rapheal]
Apr 27, 2010 (3:15 pm)
hey good u did all that atf 4 now unplug batttery cable for 1 min then back on so computer willl reset and relearn the way u shift and drive keep rpms under 3 ooo if u can
#253 of 279 Re: engine loss [tillli]
Mar 20, 2011 (12:12 am)
It sounds like you water pump stopped functioning locked up and caused the timing belt to break. Now if it turns over but no compression, you may have gotten lucky and the valves aren't bent. But usually they always bend in this case, and a head job would be necessary. Removing the plastic covers on the left side top of the engine will reveal the broken timing belt. Good luck Steve E