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Sedans Infiniti Q45 Infiniti Q45 Maintenance and Repair
246 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 11:15 AM
You are in the Infiniti Q45 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: mmorgan1 (Jan 27, 2007 8:28 am) Warmest regards, Travis
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| I just bought a Q45 and it seems that the car is shutting itself down when i try to start it. I put a new battery in the car because when i bought it the old one was dead. Drove home and tried to start it and it seems the car is in a security mode or something the relay for the security is missing. There is no power to the car itself but a clicking noise coming from somewhere on the passenger side of the motor. Im not sure what else i can say so any help would be great. Thank you. | |
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Replying to: q45az (Oct 12, 2008 5:26 pm) I pulled the relays in the black box till it went off it was the one marked inhibit I never traced it back to see what it went to but it was not starting only just cranking . I guessed it was just low on battery charge and causing the buzz. Inhibit relay goes to a module under the dash I think it was security or alarm module.I got my service manual here and will look it up.
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Replying to: rearwheeldrive (Oct 12, 2008 10:18 pm) |
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Replying to: rearwheeldrive (Oct 12, 2008 10:18 pm)
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Would appreciate any feedback as to where I might find a detailed procedure for replacing left & right valve cover gaskets. Most is straight forward but the left side appears to require at least the removal of the EGR and perhaps the intake manifold. Thanks.
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Replying to: jims96q45 (Oct 21, 2008 10:16 am) In my removal I broke it down into hoses cables and the bolts and a couple more hoses when you get the manifold separated from the engine. From memory, I get up on the engine and look behind the engine to the top of the block. You ll see a Y type hose going to the idle air valve and another metal tube that runs along the top of the block. Try and get some pliers on the hose clamp to the metal pipe side, remove this hose clamp only The other two sides do not need removed. Now your going to remove hose clamps on the valve cover. The largest ones in the middle of the cover next to the intake on the intake manifold. Theres two on the left valve cover and one on right valve cover. That is all the hoses for now I switch to throttle cables next, the three on the right side of the engine. The two upper ones that go into the firewall must be removed, leave the other one alone. That one goes to the other side of engine throttle plate, and stays on the manifold when you lift it off. The two nuts are 14mm size. Use two wrenches and turn the nut on the firewall side of cable while holding the nut on the end of the cable side. If it doesn't move, you have your adjustment for later. Then lift cable off from between the metal clamp by open the throttle by hand at the lever next to these nuts and slide the end of the cable out of the slot made for removal. Then re-tighten the two nuts back together. I re-tighten the nut you loosened to the one that never moved.This is your adjustment point when you reinstall it. I mark this nut on the top with red paint for a reference in case it moves a little. Next is the EGR valve. It can be hard to get to the tube that runs down to the exhaust manifold. I used a 90 degree nut wrench. like those plumbers wrenches but lighter and smaller. Open it up to 15/16 and put on with the wrench towards the front of the engine and try to break it loose. Dont have to remove it completely. It helps to have all the wires on the valve cover out of the way. Then get the other end of this tube at the EGR Valve, it is 1 1/4 size. Back to the hoses I missed the vacuum booster hose and its clamp on the top backside of engine and fuel regulator hoses.Its down under the manifold on the top of the block by the Y hose and the other fuel regulator diaphragm hose is next to the Idle Air Valve (IAC) on the back of the engine too but higher up on the left side as you sit in the car It pulls right off. One more hose clamp to be removed is on the front of the engine right side comes from the bottom of the manifold into the hoses you removed in the first paragraph. It is smaller, 3/8 size. and wont come off until you lift the manifold and twist the manifold as you remove it, then it comes off. This is the next to last hose holding the manifold on. The last hose is the coolant hoses. There is two, one on each side of the opening for the intake by the throttle valve. I hold the intake up in the air after you have removed the 16 10mm bolts holding it all down. I should have included it in the last step for bolts. Use a 2x4 wedge undr the manifold to keep it up while I remove these last two hose clamps. These are 3/8 size hoses with antifreeze in them. Now is a good time to start draining some of the coolant in the radiator before you start or these hoses will give you a small flood on top of the engine. Oh yea I remove the two bolts (12mm) on the EGR Valve and remove it, This gives me more access to the last hose I just mentioned. Also remove the diaphram above it,on the top of the manifold next to the EGR. Two 10mm bolts hold the diaphram on.The only hoses that I didnt mention run along the valve cover to some metal tubes and solenoids on the left side of engine, they also get removed. They bolt to the left valve cover. I pull off the small hoses at each end and the two more that connecte to the intake by the throttle valve. The whole assembly of these hoses cant be removed until you remove the manifold.Remember to put it inplace first before you install the intake manifold on reinstallation.
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Replying to: rearwheeldrive (Oct 22, 2008 9:51 am) Should anyone read this post and want pictures and details for a 96 Infinity send me a request. Again, thanks for your help 'rearwheeldrive'.
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Replying to: jims96q45 (Oct 23, 2008 4:43 pm) Never bend or break anything on this car, parts are too expensive. I think I tried to get the cover off with it loose but I never had to bend it. It makes installation easier to remove it completely once you get the valve cover off. The right side cover is tough getting around the A/C lines I used a 1/4 drive socket wrapped in masking tape to help my two fingers loosen the bolt because the ratchet gets in the way of the A/C lines The fuel lines I left on too. My pic's are detailed, but I have them in two different software programs and cant find then in the old software that pops up in the download window of this site. I'll find them today.
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