Last post on Sep 08, 2013 at 3:37 PM
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Buick Regal, Electrical, Sedan
#256 of 354 Re: 2000 Buick Regal - no electrical, please help [farmer68623]
Dec 21, 2009 (2:57 pm)
Sounds like it might be a bad ground connection or a bad ground cable. Start with unbolting the cable where it bolts to the block.
I had a problem with my Buick where the starter wouldn't do anything but I did have lights. Come to find out the chip in the key was bad. Unfortunately, I replaced a good starter at $175. before I discovered the key was bad.
Dec 22, 2009 (11:56 am)
After replacing the catalytic converter on my daughter's 2003 Buick Regal, the car would stall whenever the left turn was on. We went to a local dealer and their answer after putting it on the computer was to replace the battery. The problem continued and another dealer finally solved it by finding a shorted wire in the fuse box where all the wire connect. We also had to replace the ignition switch. This all at a cost of approximately $1500.00.
The original dealer contents that his work on the converter and battery was not a factor in the wire shortage.
Does anybody out there agree that these issues are not related or am I being fleeced ??
#258 of 354 Re: Kenbeggy [kenbeggy]
Dec 22, 2009 (4:24 pm)
It's sad how much dealers charge to work on cars these days. That's why when ever I buy a car from a dealer I opt for the extended warrantee. After the warrantee expires or if itís something the warrantee doesnít cover I go else where or fix it myself. In your situation on a 03, a warrantee probably would have been expired anyway.
Most of the time when I weld on an exhaust system I disconnect the battery to help prevent electrical damage. I haven't heard of welding causing a short in the fuse box but I have heard of it sometimes blowing out the diodes in the alternator. At any rate it would be very hard trying to prove that the welding on your car caused the damage. Maybe it did and maybe it didnít.
That fifteen hundred could have helped out with Christmas for sure. Sorry for the bad luck. Hope your holidays get better.
#259 of 354 Back up lights.
Dec 30, 2009 (7:13 pm)
My 99 Park Ultra Buick back up lights have both failed. I replaced the back up light
switch and the bulbs and checked the fuse located under the glove box on the
passenger side. If it is a simple ground where is it for the back up everything else
all lights work great. I do have a issue with oil pressure light and a gas gauge
but that is a display issue. Any ideas?
#260 of 354 2000 regal cluster not visible at night
Jan 17, 2010 (10:15 pm)
I have struggled with and resolved a problem that appears to be very popular among Regal Owners. My 2000 Regal would start up at night and the auto lamps would turn on, but the interior illumination would not light with the exception of very dim lighting on the radio and heater/ac controls.
The problem is in the connector to the headlamp switch, which has weak terminals. I resolved the problem by removing the IP trim panel, removed the headlight switch, removed each terminal in the connector and tightened the spring tension on the terminal before reinstalling the terminal in the connector. I then sprayed the headlight switch and connector with CRC 5-56 including the potentiometer in the switch, and cycled the switch and dimmer potentiometer several times before reinstalling the connector.
The process involves removing the black trim that covers the entire center section of the Instrument panel (IP) and trims the center stack (radio and HVAC controls). This trim panel also includes the HVAC vents. Remove the headlight switch. remove the connector from the headlight switch. remove the terminals one-by-one and tighten the spring tension in the terminals.
I will try to identify each step in the process for others who Undoubtedly have the same issue as I had.
1. Start at the right side of the Instrument panel and remove the cap covering the fuse panel. It snaps out and you will need to be careful that you remove the clips from the holes without breaking the clips.
2. The black trim panel has a 7mm head screw on the right side of the IP end cap under the fuse panel cover. Remove that screw.
3. Remove the similar trim panel from the left end cap of the IP (adjacent to the headlight switch) exposing the headlight switch attachment screws.
4. Snap the black trim panel off, beginning at the right side The panel will snap out and will need to be rolled down from the top, because the lower edge of the panel has a lip that fits behind the lower IP trim panels. Gently pull the top right side of the panel out, and then work your way toward the center stack and to the left side where the headlight switch is.
4. Remove the two screws securing the headlight switch bracket to the IP end cap. Slide the headlight switch left, releasing the knob area from the the IP structure. The switch will now roll out of the side cavity of the IP structure.
5. Once the switch is exposed, remove the connector from the back of the switch.
6. Note the color and location of each wire in the female connector, to be sure that you locate each terminal in the correct position during reassembly.
7. Starting at one side of the connector, remove the blue lock tab and carefully release one terminal from the connector cavity using a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pulling the terminal out of the cavity by the wire.
8. Once the terminal is free from the connector, you can now "GENTLY" bend the half-moon spring area of the terminal closing the gap where the male blade fits into the female terminal.
9. Reinsert the terminal into the correct cavity of the connector and move to the next terminal.
10. Once the terminals are all tightened and the connector is reassembled, spray CRC 5-56 or electrical contact cleaner into the headlight switch and cycle the switch on and off a few times. Also cycle the dimmer potentiometer a few times.
11. Spray the female harness connector terminals with CRC before making the connection to the headlight switch.
12. Carefully reconnect the connector to the headlight switch, paying attention to insert the connector straight into the switch so that the terminals are not forced open as the connector is inserted.
13. Test the switch to insure that all lighting functions are present, including manually cycling the headlights and checking the dimmer potentiometer.
14. Reassemble the switch to the IP,reinstall the trim panel along with the IP side covers.
I also have a floating fuel gage and low temp position that I will tackle and post here in the near future.
E-mail me at norton08comcast.net if you have any questions. Good Luck.
#261 of 354 Re: 2000 regal cluster not visible at night [carguymonterey]
Jan 18, 2010 (7:46 am)
I had to replace my headlight switch a couple of years ago because of the same thing. Best I remember, I was able to remove and replace the switch by going through the left end of dash. I was impressed on how easy it was to replace I remember that.
#262 of 354 Re: 2001 buick regal LS- Electrical issues?? [gnielsen]
Jan 22, 2010 (7:34 am)
My wife's 01 Regal is doing this as well. She said she tried to start the car yesterday and got a brief flash of the dash lights and such that are normal when she starts it, but then the power cut out or something. Following gnielsen's advice with the screwdriver to push up the solenoid rod I was able to get the key out, but it appears that something's draining her battery (this has been going on for the last month, and we replaced the battery last week thinking the cold was killing it). Is the solenoid causing the battery depletion or is it being caused BY battery depletion? While trying to jump her car last night, the passenger side light on the rearview mirror was flickering dimly like it was haunted. My first thought is to replace the ignition switch, but that's just a shot in the dark, otherwise I'll have to remove fuses and find the possible short.
#263 of 354 Re: 2000 Buick Regal - no electrical, please help [farmer68623]
Jan 26, 2010 (7:39 am)
I had this, does the security light come on if it does get them to check the resistor, mine had a hair line crack so only did when damp out. Or until the sun came out really strong, then the car started every time. I put in a new starter, new body control module, new key and this resistor was the last thing check after a check of all the wiring harness, because it had already had the by pass they figured the resistor was good. Not cost me over a thousand to fix an eight dollar part.
#264 of 354 1980 Buick Regal Electrical Issues
Jan 31, 2010 (6:31 am)
I recently acquired a pretty clean 1980 Buick Regal with a rebuilt 350 Olds Rocket. The motor & trans is all new-the car original 62,000 miles. This car was done right and never had a problem in the short time I have owned it. The other day coming home from the gas station the radio went out. Next morning no power to the starter-wipers-electric windows-seats-nothing. I get a beeping when the key is in but no clicks from the starter-nothing. The headlights work-dashlights-but that's it. Battery is good-light works under the hood-etc,,, The dual headers wrap the starter very tight and I would have to literally remove the header-disconnect it-release the driver side motor mount and jack it up to get to the starter-theres no other wat. (Starters on the drivers side on this motor). I would hate to emgage in all this work to find out it's a module or something else-ignition switch-etc,,, What could I do to test the ignition switch-troubleshoot it from the top end before I do all the other stuff ? I checked the fuses-nothing is blown that I can tell. Any helps appreciated-I'm missing a leg and it'sdamd cold to be laying under that car. Thanks for any help.
#265 of 354 Re: 2000 Buick Regal - no electrical, please help [taylor61]
Feb 01, 2010 (7:10 am)
I definitely have this issue also. I have no lights/power in the morning, but when the sun comes out it will start every time! Where is this resistor you mentioned? I was actually talking to a dealer about a new key already. I would greatly appreciate a quick inexpensive fix!