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Chevrolet Cavalier Electrical System Questions

129 messages,  Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 10:44 AM

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#120 of 129 Re: Warning Lights Stay On [sja] by sja Jul 11, 2009 (8:28 am)
Replying to: sja (Jul 05, 2009 1:52 pm) Update: Disconnected the battery, cleaned up some corrosion here and there, re-connected. Problem now is the DRL indicator flashes, high beams work and the relay was replaced, still no DRL's. The indicator goes out when headlights are turned on. The air bag light is now on all the time and may be an issue with the Crutchfield stereo installation.   Any assistance in getting the air bag light out is appreciated.
#121 of 129 warrning dash lighs, koo,koo by jonny300000 Sep 24, 2009 (5:17 pm)
i have a 2000 cav, 2.2 auto 110,000 miles. on and off the abs, check gauges, trac off, lighs come on, and the speedo, fuel, temp, tach, all go off and then the word. "error" apears were the milage should be. it has been happening 4-5 times with in a hour drive.. never a check engine light comes on, well only with the key on and the engine off. like it should be. the codes i pulled out are. U1000 = class 2 serial communication problem. U1040 = loss of ebcm/ebtcm communications. U1064 = loss bcm,vtd,dim,pzm and/or sbm data. PO446 = evap vent control problem. PO1626 = anti-theft system fuel enable circuit. i did have a new battery, cleaned the body ground at the battery tray and the ground at the engine block.. sorry for the long post... any help would be great.. thanks.
#122 of 129 Re: 2000 Cavalier left rear turn signal [defaultdriver] by coastcruiser1 Oct 17, 2009 (2:59 pm)
Replying to: defaultdriver (Jun 19, 2009 12:02 pm) you need to buy a new pigtail from the dealer. The contacts heat up and begin to arc as they get older hence will not make proper contact with the bulb because the plastic casing changes shape
#123 of 129 Cavalier headlight problem by coastcruiser1 Oct 17, 2009 (3:09 pm)
I have a 2003 cavalier. A headlight burnt out so I replaced both at the same time. Now the headlights are working normally but the hi beam indicator on the dash will not go out even when the lights are on low beam. I also have the service light on and will not go off until I turn off the ignition. I have daytime running lights when the car is running and no hi beam indicator as long as I don't turn the headlights on. If I do turn the lights on and then off again, the hi beam indicator stays on and the daytime running lights do not
#124 of 129 Re: my 2004 guages go wacko [johnnyhemi] by jag72 Oct 18, 2009 (12:29 pm)
Replying to: johnnyhemi (Mar 15, 2009 6:30 pm) Hello my name is Jose, I have the same vehicle same year with the same exact problem, Did you find a solution to your problem? Can you help?
#125 of 129 Re: al [als52] by onemorechief Oct 21, 2009 (9:48 am)
Replying to: als52 (Jul 10, 2009 3:10 pm) Bad switch in door...I just poped out the switch and unhooked it, no lights or ding when i open the driver door now but it fixed the problem.
#126 of 129 Re: Warning Lights Stay On [sja] by mikeh1956 Oct 22, 2009 (1:38 pm)
Replying to: sja (Jul 05, 2009 1:52 pm) My DRL's was not working either, when you put it in gear driving lights flashed on and off outside and the symbol on instrument cluster. I had high beams, no low beams. I checked my headlight bulbs and both lowbeams was burnt out, i replaced the bulbs and everything works now. Easy fix, but I looked at many other things before I found my problem. I felt pretty stupid after I found the real problem.
#127 of 129 Replace Power Windows 05 Cavaliar by knowit2 Nov 08, 2009 (8:34 am)
I just replaced the driver side front power window motor and thought I'd write the process in case anyone want's to do this also. I got a new power window motor for $42.00 from a car parts place (advance auto parts).   This is to the best of my memory. I'm not a mechanic. It is just for reference.   Before starting get a new motor. If you don't have a drill you will need one and drill bits to drill out Rivots. You will need a Rivot tool and 3/16 inch (this is what I used) Rivots from Home Depot or Menards. You will need some sockets or wrenches and a screwdriver.   First thing to do is unscrew the plastic piece that is holding your mirror turner on the top corner of the door. Then take the screws out of the door on the arm rest. Then take the screws out of the back edge and bottom edge of the door which holds the inside door trim to the door.   Carefully pull the bottom door trim from the door. If it doesn't come easy, check for more screws, don't force it. After the bottom pulls out lift trim up. Now disconnect the power line pieces from the door trim. Put the door trim piece to the side.   Now to be smart, take the power line from the old window motor and connect up to the new motor as you are holding it. Now try to use the window up/down button. If it works on the new motor and not the old, it is a motor issue. If it doesn't work on the new motor you have electrical problems and I can't help you.   Now pull the plastic sheet from the door metal. I just left it up and pulled the parts away that I needed to work on. Now it is kind of scary, you're thinking this looks too complicated. Take it easy it's not that bad!   Take a few minutes to look over the door. You will notice that the window is bolted to a metal bottom piece by two plastic tabs. You need to unscrew the window tabs from the metal bottom piece and remove the window. The window can be pulled out toward the outside of the car. Don't force this. If you can't do it for what ever reason, take it easy and think a solution through.   Now that the window is out. You can see that the motor is connected to the frame by five rivots. These rivots have to be drilled out. The way I did this is get a big drill bit and just start drilling until the rivot head is cut off. There may be a better way, I'm not sure.   After the rivots are drilled out, you will need to take two bolts off that are connecting the window brace to the door. Take these two bolts off.   Now pull the entire metal window frame (regulator) and motor out of a hole on the inside of the door. You will see that the regulator and motor are connected by more rivots (you may want to take out your digital camera and take a picture of how these are put together to reference later). Drill out these rivots. Now you can throw out the old motor (make sure you take the top metal bracket off the old motor and use two rivots to rivot on the new motor).   Connect the regulator and new motor back together and rivot them using the rivot tool and rivots. Make sure they are connected together real tight. (They make washers to use with the rivots, I highly recommend using these washers to make sure the rivots are as tight as possible.   Now that the regulator and motor are connected you can slide it back into the same hole in the door you pulled it out of. the odds are that the regulator and motor won't match up to the holes in the door, don't panic. Just connect up the power supply and move the door button up or down until you get the holes to match up. The up/down buttons will move the motor and regulator until they both are positioned to the door rivot holes.   Now that it is in position, slip a rivot in and use a washer at the end of the rivot to insure a tight solid rivot. After rivoting all 5 rivots, you can re-bolt the regulator to the door with the two bolts. Now is a good time to give a quick trial run with the window motor. the window tab bolts may hit the motor, don't worry about that. Now move the window up/down to where you can get at the metal window bracket where the bolts will go.   Insert the window from the outside of the door. Match up the tabs on the bottom of the window with the bolts on the bottom metal frame of the window regulator. Tighten the bolts connecting the bottom metal from to the window. Now test window for real. Window should go up and down all the way.   Now reconnect all electrical connections to the door trim panel. You have to do the top of the door panel first to push it real close to the window, then connect the sides and bottom. Make sure all the little plastic tabs match. Take your time and do it right. If it doesn't match up pull it out and try again. You may need two people for this process. After trim is in, re-screw all screws and you are done. Clean up the mess.   Congrats, you just saved $200-$250.
#128 of 129 disbale 2008 cavalier speedo by swboy Dec 02, 2009 (9:48 am)
what do i need to do to disable the speedo on a cavalier especially the odometer, i have this rented and i will exceed the milage by about 75 miles, however i have time to drive with no additional milage....HELP is there a fuse to pull Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Dec 02, 2009 10:44 am)
#129 of 129 Re: disbale 2008 cavalier speedo [swboy] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Dec 02, 2009 (10:44 am)
Replying to: swboy (Dec 02, 2009 9:48 am) FEDERAL offense. Don't be foolish.

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