Last post on Jan 29, 2013 at 7:02 PM
You are in the Mercedes-Benz C-Class
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Mercedes-Benz C-Class, Auto Repair, Sedan
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Jul 08, 2009 (5:33 pm)
Just wondering if anyone who owns the latest generation C has has a problem with the rear doors continually rattling. My 2008 C300 has had rattles and clunks from the rear passenger compartment since day one. At first I thought it was maybe the headrests. I mentioned it when I brought the car in for service, and the Mercedes mechanic wrote on the workorder that he'd "adjusted" and "lubed" the rear doors. Didn't fix the rattles, which are more-or-less constant over all but the smoothest roads and under braking and acceleration, particularly shifting (the car has a six speed). The clunks do sound like the windows moving, and maybe the rattles are the door panels. I can't believe the body is flexing that much, almost like they forgot to install a structural brace. I doubt it's that, but it's either the doors aren't installed properly or some kind of design defect. Anybody have any experience with this, or any ideas?
#67 of 218 Re: 2005 C230 [tjeq]
Aug 10, 2009 (6:47 pm)
My car is doing the same thing you are explaining. Did you ever find out what the sound was and why your A/C was acting up? I'm just trying to figure out if I should get rid of the car or take it in.
#68 of 218 Re: 2005 C230 [msingle]
Aug 11, 2009 (8:47 am)
Nobody seems to know what is wrong. We are frustrated.
#69 of 218 mercedes C230 1998
Aug 17, 2009 (1:04 pm)
1998 Mercedes Benz C230 Two Wheel Drive Automatic
my car had an accident,
after woking on it it developed problems like
1. current seizing which makes the car not to turn on
2. bad gear selection
3.mechanics said it could be pis problem or key line problem which they said key must come with a brainbox and ignition
pls i am really confused and need a solution to the problem cos they car is parked down
thank you so much
#70 of 218 Re: Air conditioning - intermittent air flow [swycallis]
Sep 22, 2009 (8:59 am)
This problem sounds similar to what I'm experiencing. When we pull up to a stop the temperature of the a/c air rises (probably to outside ambient.). When we drive down the road a/c seems to run ok. From your message, I suspect a bad interior air filter. But I don't know where it is (our battery is in the trunk). Any ideas?
#71 of 218 c class wring harness
Sep 23, 2009 (12:45 pm)
do any one know where i can find one that dont cost a arm and leg
#72 of 218 C230 will NOT start!! Help!
Sep 23, 2009 (10:05 pm)
I have a 2003 C230 Kompressor. In the past 3 weeks (it hasn't started) I've changed the alternator (three times due to faulty rebuilt alternators and bad voltage regulator), so, new alternator, new voltage regulator, new battery (fully charged) and 3 weeks later my car STILL will not start. It cranks over once and that's it. I don't know where the starter is located to see if maybe that is the problem. Any ideas before I take it to the stealer???
#73 of 218 Re: C230 will NOT start!! Help! [motheroftwo]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Sep 24, 2009 (7:40 am)
Okay first off you have to clarify your terms. For most of us:
"crank" means turning the engine over with the starter, not the actual running of the engine.
"start" means the actual running of the engine.
So, to clarify, you are saying that your engine doesn't crank fast enough, or cranks very little--it isn't being turned over by the starter motor?
Or are you saying it cranks and cranks and cranks but will not start?
#74 of 218 Re: C230 will NOT start!! Help! [Mr_Shiftright]
Sep 24, 2009 (10:21 am)
It cranks very little. It doesn't crank over and over nor does it make any clicking sounds. When I turn the key for about a second it sounds like it's trying to start and then nothing. The car was running fine until 3 weeks ago when the new alternator was put in, turns out it was a faulty alternator, which had to be replaced and somehow my battery drained during the process, so it also has a new battery which is fully charged.
#75 of 218 Re: C230 will NOT start!! Help! [motheroftwo]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Sep 24, 2009 (1:40 pm)
Well okay, what I would do is jump start the car, and then test to see if the alternator is at least charging, using a simple voltmeter on the battery terminals. If it's charging, then I'd test the battery with a load test. A drained battery is often killed if it goes completely dead and even a good alternator cannot bring it back to life.
The starter is the last thing I'd suspect.
Usually a tip off to a bad starter is when you jump start the car, and even with assistance from another car, the engine barely cranks and the battery cables become too hot to touch after only a few cranks. That means the starter is dragging.
By all means, after testing the alternator and load-testing the battery (if it's more than 3 years old, it is suspect just from old age, and over 5 years old, definitely suspect), then make sure your battery cables are clean AND secure on both ends (that is, in all 4 places where the cables attach to something).
The basis for any accurate diagnosis is NEVER assume that because something is new or rebuilt, that it is good.