Last post on Nov 24, 2013 at 5:10 AM
You are in the Ford Explorer
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Ford Explorer, Ford Explorer Sport, Ford Explorer Sport Trac, SUV
#263 of 282 Re: FORD EXLR-MESSAGE CENTER [khan11]
Dec 14, 2012 (2:51 pm)
It's possible you need to push the Info button on the dash, may turn it on. Also, are your instrument panel lights working? If not, it's probably just turned down very low, or off.
Failing those two possibilities, it will probably need a new panel.
#264 of 282 2007 Eletrical Issues
Jan 04, 2013 (12:39 pm)
I have a 2007 Explorer Eddie Baurer with approx 44,000 miles. Recently the vehicle eletrical system has gone on the fritz. The temp controls race high then low and the warning lights come on then go off. After this happens the vehicle will not start. Then later it will start and drive with no issues. I repleaced the battery and it happened again. The system chack says everything is fine. Also it has a electric starter that will not function after this happens. Could there be a short in the system?
#265 of 282 Re: 2007 Eletrical Issues [juliaroses]
Jan 05, 2013 (4:53 am)
When I run into “inexplicable” (what the over????) Electrical problems I check out the grounding points. If you find a grounding point which looks questionable, then disassemble the grounding point, clean it and check the lead wires. Do inspect the connector for corrosion where the wire goes into the lug. I have found connections where the corrosion has worked it’s way up the wire as much as four feet and I had to replace the connector and the wire. IF you find this, be sure that where you make your new connection and wire is WELL sealed and possibly at a low corrosion point.
When reestablishing the ground point, I use anti corrosive paste and star washers. (Star washer lead(s) star washer, flat washer and then nut or screw). I can not even count the number of times I have found this to be the cure.
DO NOT replace high buck items unless that component fails on a bench test. For example almost any battery supplier has a tester for testing the battery under load.
PS: If the grounding point is severely deteriorated, make up a new grounding conductor and add that to the original grounding point and connect the new lead to a good clean chassis point. I have gone so far as to drill a 5/16ths hole in a good clean frame point and then ground the new ground wire there with a bolt and washers and anti corrosive.
#266 of 282 Re: 2007 Eletrical Issues [johnminn]
Jan 05, 2013 (5:06 am)
PPS: I had a Cadillac which would work properly if the drivers door was open. It turned out that the ground lead from engine to chassis had been ruptured. I repaired that and added another ground from engine to frame. With the broken connection the system had been using the drive shaft to rear differential for ground and the bushing on the transmission tail piece had been “eaten away” and I had to replace the bushing and seal. Why did it work with the drivers door open? I THINK it was using the lighting circuit for a ground.
#267 of 282 2005 explorer gas pedal not revving engine
Jan 20, 2013 (1:53 pm)
I replaced the alternator and battery on the explorer and now when pressing down the gas pedal the car will not accelerate or rev the engine. Any ideas?
#268 of 282 Re: 2005 explorer gas pedal not revving engine [drewsays]
Jan 20, 2013 (7:52 pm)
The most probable cause is that you disturbed the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) connection. The TPS controls the computers response to accelerator position and therefore controls the "revving" of the engine. In you vehicle the TPS is part of the (ETC) Torque-based Electronic Throttle Control system.
IF you have the Accelerator position sensor located inside the cab at the top of your accelerator, you have a ""drive by wire system" and you will need a good mechanic with the proper test equipment to diagnose the source of your problem. BUT you could check the wiring going to the throttle body. My bet is that you disturbed a wiring connection. You should be getting an engine warning light coming on on your dash. You can read out the codes the hard way if you have a haynes or similar manual, but a good readout instrument such as the Actron makes the checkup much easier. A few mechanics will charge you $35.00 to give you the answer with their test instrument.
On a different aspect of your repair: I am very tight when it comes to replacing components such as batteries and Alternators and do not do so until I have bench tested those components. Nearly any parts supplier has the test equipment to check the condition of these components and will do so if you bring the alt. or battery or both into them. Some can and will test them on your vehicle for free or a very nominal price.
Don't waste your money unnecessarily replacing components, and DO use only trustworthy mechanics. In today's market, FAR too many are parts swappers who will break your bank. A dealership with an outstanding reputation is very jealous of that rating and they are actually cheapest in many cases ESPECIALLY when it comes to control systems, which are HIGH profit items. Integrity is becoming a rare commodity unfortunately.
#270 of 282 No interior buttons work after getting a jump.
Aug 05, 2013 (7:28 pm)
The battery died on my '97 Explorer and after getting a jump, no interior button works. The windows do not work. The door locks do not work. The keypad no longer unlocks or locks the doors, though it does still arm and disarm the alarm. The same for the key fob, which will arm and disarm the alarm, but not lock and unlock the doors. My explorer is a 4 door with the 5.0 engine 2WD. I have already carefully inspected every single fuse, and none are blown. However, a blown fuse probably is unlikely since the systems involved do not all use the same fuse or relay.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#271 of 282 Re: No interior buttons work after getting a jump. [bivins]
Aug 13, 2013 (10:12 am)
I can only guess, but did somebody hook up the jumper cables backwards? Because it sounds like the master body computer may have been blown by the jump. This module controls all the interior electrical components on the car, which from what you say, are all dead now.
#272 of 282 electrical problems 2008 ford explorer sports trac
Aug 14, 2013 (6:09 am)
This week my 2008 ford sports trac started having electrical problems. My dash board lights up like a christmas tree then goes away, having surge issues too and now my dash is going black and then coming back on. You can also hear a relay clicking on an off and my door locks go on an off. Is this just a sensor gone bad or wiring coming loose or big bucks to fix issue. I'm also getting a constant tire sensor fault light, not tire pressure low, not sure if thats real or not either. I am never at a good place to check my head lights as to if they come on when dash goes out. Can any one tell if they are. All of these issues are during the work dive to and from home haven't gone out at night yet, not willing to risk it ( no lights that is).