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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Heating / Cooling

237 messages, Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 8:56 PM
You are in the GMC Safari & Chevy Astro Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Replying to: bdar (Sep 08, 2009 4:05 pm) |
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Replying to: duecekd (Sep 21, 2009 5:45 pm)
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Replying to: duecekd (Sep 21, 2009 5:45 pm) Mike
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REFER TO POST #213 BY iambyteme. THAT IS WHERE I GOT THE DIAGRAM FROM. I AM WRITING IN CAPS, NOT TO BE RUDE, BUT IN HOPES IT WILL STAND OUT. I don't know how to post it again, and I think it requires a hosted site to get to, which I don't have. So go to link on post #213 in this forum, and save to your PC to print. Not that I would mind, but it's easier than emailing each individual that may want it. P.S. Thanks to iambyteme for posting it in the 1st place. Hats off, and hopefully for everyone else, vacuum on!! |
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Replying to: bdar (Sep 28, 2009 7:17 pm) That was close enough to right behind where the selector switch is in the dash. You'll need to pull the doghouse to see where to punch through. I used a bit a little larger than the new tubing, and then wrapped with tape to help it from rubbing a hole in the new tubing where it went through the firewall. Refer to my post #124 for more of the same story. |
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Replying to: mike_wallace (Sep 29, 2009 7:53 pm) |
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Replying to: bdar (Sep 28, 2009 7:17 pm) I recently faced a similar set of problems on a 94 Chevy Astro Van. I hunted down some vacuum leaks that ended up being caused by battery acid eating holes in some of the vacuum line tubes wrapped inside a major section of the underhood wiring harness. The simplest approach (in this instance) was to unwrap the entire affected section of the harness, which contained several vacuum lines as well as electrical wiring. Note that some of these vacuum lines can be hard to spot as they are about the same size as the wiring and colored similarly. If you decide to unwrap portion(s) of the wiring harness be certain to keep track of which wires and vacuum lines are wrapped together and the way each of the different bundles are routed and attached to the body. A roll of masking tape, a permanent marker, a pencil, some blank paper and a clip board will make doing so possible and easy. To do otherwise is to ask for really bad headache. Too, if possible, finish the job once you start it because it's so easy to loose track of (forget) exactly what goes where even if you only step away from the task over night. Inspect and repair the vacuum lines in question. And then, because the opportunity to do so happens to exist, carefully inspect all the wiring and connectors uncovered during the process and clean and repair those as well. Afterwards rewrap the harness in as close to it's original configuration as possible. It's wise to use the highest quality electrical tape available, such as 3M and Scotch. Doing so costs a little more but it best insures against creating other problems in the future. (And believe me when I say the last thing you'd ever want is an electrical short occurring inside a wiring harness.) Another tip is to make use of a product called "Liquid Tape", or a variation on that name. It's a liquid form of insulation that's painted on the wiring, providing both highly effective electrical insulation and waterproofing as well. This is also available from 3M/Scotch. When I'm done with the job and everything's dried out and been proof tested I spray it down good with WD-40 to help ward off moisture. (Besides don't the rule say, "If it's supposed to move and don 't WD-40 it, and if it moves but ain't supposed to Duct Tape it!") Best of luck, Charlie
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Replying to: Charlie_UT (Oct 02, 2009 6:36 pm) Thanks for getting back to me on this. I really appreciate it. i am sorry that I didn't get to respond back sooner, but it has been a busy week! From the vacuum diagram that I have, I took a look at things and it indicates exactly what you said, that the vacuum lines run into the wiring harness. But my question is, how do you get to the wiring harness?? Mine in my 97 Chevy Astro seems buried between the firewall and inside panel of the car and I cannot see a way to get to it. I checked beside the battery and I don't see anything visible as far as the wiring harness. There was one tube that I was looking to replace and it was sticking out of the firewall right beside the accumulator (it was a very short tube that I assume connects into another tube that goes somewhere into the wiring harness) and so I replaced it and although it helped a little, the air is just coming out weak and not like is used to before. So I assume that this is the problem that I have and I am just about ready to not care anymore about trying to do it myself. However, I truly think that this is ridiculous and I did talk to my attorney this week about possibly filing a class-action lawsuit against GM since it is clear that some many thousands of people have had the same vacuum line issue and I truly feel like there should be a recall on this or at least should have been. He is looking into it but suggested to me in the meantime to call up GM and inform them of the issue and just how many people out there are having the same issue and threaten to sue if they can't do anything about it and then see where it goes from there. I am not sure if that will get me anywhere with them, but it won't hurt to try and the worst that they could do is say we don't care go to H*ll. |
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| well if you dont mind can you try to send me the diagram for the vacuum you can try to send me it if you want it will surely com in handy for myself if it is to much trouble. | |
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I had a problem getting the Heater A/C working properly in my 1998 Safari. Took it back to the dealer who put in a new control (The one with 3 holes attached) now I get all kinds of air to the various areas and I can get the A/C to work BUT absolutely nothing beyond a luke warm(cold) air when the heater is turned on. Living in Canada we need a properly running heater in our vans! Now the dealer is suggesting the thermostat may be stuck and wants to replace it (of course at my cost) Could this also be a vacuum problem?
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