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Vans & Minivans Nissan Quest Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Problems
345 messages, Last post on Feb 25, 2010 at 4:14 PM
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Replying to: rich_92 (Oct 31, 2005 3:35 pm) Since it seems that there hasn't been an answer here, you might try asking the folks in the Idle or Stalling Problems: All Vehicles discussion. Just click the link to get there.
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Replying to: claires (Nov 01, 2005 11:57 am) Regards.
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Replying to: rich_92 (Nov 01, 2005 1:59 pm) Another easy thing to do is swing by an auto parts store and ask them to see if any codes are being thrown off - lots of places will do that for free. You could have something flaky going on with one of the computer modules or something too I suppose. There should be some ideas over in the stalling discussion that Claires linked to. |
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Replying to: hngeme (Aug 23, 2005 8:27 am) Did you get it figured out on your van? Does anyone have any ideas?
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Replying to: rnfunk2 (Nov 17, 2005 11:58 am)
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Replying to: fdubois (Nov 18, 2005 9:07 pm) Mechanic found out the stalling issue is due to the "idle air control valve". One of the solenoids on it is broke. Will put it in this week and see what happens! Just wanted to update in case someone else has this prob. |
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my car will not start, i was driving and it shut off in a restaurant parking lot. i had to start it several times to make it home. Once I got it home will try to start but has not started as of yet I have a 1996 Mercury Villager. Can anyone please help me?
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Replying to: pwilliams571 (Sep 19, 2005 1:42 pm) |
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We had a similar problem on our 95 a few years ago. Besides not starting, several other things did not work, such as radio, wipers, lights. Turned out to be a relay under the hood. There were two identical relays, the dealer swapped them until the replacement was shipped. This may not be your issue, but could be. |
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I have a 96 villager. I love the thing. only problem i have ever had is random RPM failures. One time stopped running all together. Mechanic told me dirty sensor in distributor. well that was fine and dandy, but still random problem. It seems to run ok at cold temps then worse when warm then it will start to miss fire and then chug to stop. Ok here is something to think about. Wife was driving van and it stopped. When I arrived on the scene i opened the distributor cap and found that the screw that holds the rotor in place wiggled loose. I put the screw back in and it seem to run fine. but started jerking towards the end of the trip back to the house. Checked screw still tight. Now it will run but will start to fight for rpms when it gets warm. Last time it chugged to a stop the engine developed a loud screech at 1900 rpms and higher. It almost sounds like a belt but is coming from the back side of the engine towards the fire wall. The thing has had an engine light on randomly for about 2 years Maybe I am crazy but it almost sounds like a vacuum leek. Recap. Screw came out of the rotor. Replaced screw ran fine for about 5 miles then started to chug. Runs ok when cold then worse as it warms up. The engine fights for RPM until it stops running all together. Last time it stopped it developed a loud skreech at 1900 rpm and up. Sounds like b52 taking off. It still runs with loud screech but has noticeable loss of power when it does run ok.  Any help would be great.
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