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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Problems

320 messages, Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 9:22 PM
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Ok, I've seen this message on here but no response as of yet that is conclusive. 1995 Mercury Villager LS. Van is great, bought it cheap due to Ford breaking the exhause manifold studs during the engine rebuild. Van now has 230k+ on it and everything is solid. Drilled them out, tapped, and everything is great. However, the problem I have is the van losing power and eventually stalling during driving. The problem gets worse as the air temp goes up outside and the longer the trip. As well, the fuel mileage gets worse! On my last long trip, it was fine for about 120 miles, then right before we got to the destination, it lost power up a hill and I barely limped it (via idle) to a turn off. Let it sit for 15 minutes, and it started right back up and we finished the trip. Usually, the problem is unnoticeable when the van is cold, running fine until it starts to come off cold enrichment. The fuel pump is fine, as I have a test set for it and it runs 50-60psi with the regulator disconnected, and 28-32psi with regulator connected (reading taken from right before entry on the fuel rail). Also, when the van does lose power and stall, the fuel pump just runs like mad and you can almost watch the gas gauge go down, so I know it's pumping fuel. If you remove the fuel cap right after the stall, it nearly pushes fuel out and takes forever to bleed, as if there is excess pressure coming from somewhere. If you try starting it right after it stalls, you can definitely smell unburned fuel, which leads me to believe it's one or more fuel injectors. However, lately another symptom has been getting worse. Stop at a light, when it turns green you put your foot on the gas, the van falls on it's face until it reaches 3200 or so RPM and then takes off like a race car! Not really, but it definitely gains power. Although, power in that range has been going down as the other symptoms continue. Gas mileage has dropped from 26-28mpg on the highway to 18-22. I have to press the pedal more every day to keep the van at highway speeds. Is my fuel injector conclusion correct or not? Since the van still uses a distributor, I can't see how it would be anything ignition wise, as sparks tests on the plugs/wires are all good. The Service engine Soon light has only come on once, and that was when it stalled on a long trip. When I did check the fuel pressure, a large amount of air came out, then finally fuel. The only place for air to enter the fuel system and not be noticeably leaking fuel would be through an injector...I think. Please help...Love the van and everything works great on it besides minor worn out parts, like the electric locks and what not... If it's the injector(s), I can pick some up at a U-Wrench-It shop for less than $50/set, but it's a long drive and don't want to waste money and time. Mitch (Missouri) |
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Replying to: superxray (Aug 20, 2005 11:00 am) Other than this my van runs great I love it. I have had the knock sensor fixed, replaced the belts and wires, had the intake manifold rebuilt but nothing changes this problem. The last time this happened as I was sitting on the side of the road waiting for my engine to cool down another 99 Quest packed full with 5 people raced past me going up the same hill I had been trying to climb?!! Does anyone have any clues to this problem? Mitch~ were you able to figure out how to fix your van. Any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks
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Replying to: mucho (Mar 21, 2006 7:16 am) |
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Replying to: superxray (Aug 20, 2005 11:00 am) One dealer changed fuel pump. . . $700 Another dealer changed timing chain. . . $500 Another dealer changed Mass Airflow Sensor. . . $300 Another dealer wanted to change timing chain. . .again Pep Boys read codes. Said leaky fuel injector. . . $60 Injectors initial inspection passed. Changed all plugs, wires and rotor. . . $300 All dealers (and others) said they could not read codes, due to the period in 1994, when Nissan switched from standard codes to a proprietary system, then immediately switched back. Symptoms: In neutral, engine races as normal and sounds great. In drive with foot on brake, engine bogs down heavily and won't pass 2000 rpm, yet sucks fuel. When placing in drive, engine struggles to move vehicle at first. Then after car becomes "lighter" due to moving at 20mph or so, the load is effectively taken away. Car surges, RPM spikes and we are off to the races with plenty of power. Intermittent stalling on idle after movement, such as at stop sign. 144k mileage. No more than 100 miles in the past 2 years running from repair shop to repair shop. If anyone has resolved a similar problem, please post it here. Also, feel free to write me at my email address. Thanks, Rande
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Replying to: randeis (Apr 03, 2006 7:59 am) Joe |
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I have Mercury Village 2000 sports van. Recently I started experiencing viered problem while starting the van. When I start the engine (ignition) after 3-4 hours of gap(like heading for a office in the morning), it starts wtih out any problem. But, when I am starting the ignition after a small gap like after shopping, pick-up and so on, it sounds like gr.gr.gr..rr.r.r..r.r.r.. and won't start the engine. I need to keep the key in ignition and in on position for 15-20 seconds ( or more ) ignoring the gr..gr sound, then it finally starts I found this forun is very helpful in resolving the problems. My earlier problems were answered exactly (better than a technician) by the people and it worked. Please help me in answering the solution for this problem. Thanks
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Replying to: yespads1 (Aug 23, 2005 2:58 am)
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Replying to: toomanyfumes (Aug 23, 2005 5:18 am)
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Replying to: yespads1 (Aug 23, 2005 11:50 am) |
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Replying to: yespads1 (Aug 23, 2005 2:58 am) |
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