Last post on Nov 01, 2013 at 11:29 AM
You are in the Nissan Quest
What is this discussion about?
Nissan Quest, Mercury Villager, Van
#505 of 513 Re: Flooding engine when parked nose down [steve_]
Dec 25, 2011 (1:36 pm)
So, what did you do to maintain your car? to last for this long?
My Nissan Quest 94 years after I bought new started leaking engine oil and Nissan Dealer want over $1,000 to replace a gasket or some sort. They said the part is very cheap but the labor was very expensive and advised me to leave my van there for a week.
Well, what they told violate two of my principles dealing with auto mechanics:
1. If it is too hard to service and take lots of labor, it often means the car is FINE! Why? If you are auto engineer, you would design "frequently serviced parts" to be easy access and replace. If auto mechanics want to "remove lots of your auto parts", it means either the mechanics LIE wants to rob you or knows little about your car. e.g. Toyota mechanics may not be familiar with Nissan and may take much much longer to just replace your Nissan and cost you double or triple labor, or even more.
2. If auto mechanics want your to leave the car in their garage for extensive time, it often means they do not know how to do and need time to try and error. Sometimes, they want you to feel the job is big and pay more than needed.
Well, I fixed the problem by pouring into my engine crankcase a can of "stop engine oil leak", just a few dollars.
Of course, I agree that you do not need to waste money take Tylenol if you do not catch cold; however, if you do, I may save money. On the other hand, you may never catch cold like myself because I know how to prevent it from happening.
#506 of 513 Re: Flooding engine when parked nose down [nissanquest94]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Dec 25, 2011 (2:20 pm)
Nothing special. I change the oil around 7,500 miles, like the manual says, but I've pushed that off a few times, once out to 14,000 miles. The Tercel lived outside in Anchorage all 17 years and it really got ignored. Just sold it because we moved and downsized to one car. It only stranded me one time. Never been stranded in the van.
I buy whatever oil is on sale; usually SuperTech at Walmart and a Fram filter. Replace the air filter every 15,000 miles or so (usually a Fram there too; whatever is cheapest). I used to get Chevron gas a lot but when gas went up I went to the cheapest stuff. Keep good tires on it (I still manage to get more flats than the norm). Wash it maybe once a year.
Over the years, I've had a CV joint go bad, 3 fuel injectors and a sensor replaced (still not sure I trust what the mechanic did on that one), several bulbs, turn signal stalk under warranty, a windshield, two batteries, a rear hub, one set of plugs, wires and distributor, a blower resistor, and a few brakes jobs and one brake fluid flush. I've cleaned my throttle body maybe four times. Ignored the recommendation to change the timing belt at 105k. About $7,000 worth of maintenance all told. Tire were $1,665 of that. Looks like .04 a mile for maintenance.
There's a mechanic posting over in the Right To Repair discussion who recently said that sometimes the fastest way to fix something is to see how the factory built the car around the part and work that way. That may mean simply pulling the engine and transmission as a unit instead of going "by the book".
Stories are legion about how auto engineers didn't take into account maintenance needs. Forget the make/model, but on one rig, you had to jack the motor up a few inches to get enough clearance to remove one of the spark plugs. Wonderful planning.
Thanks for asking.
#507 of 513 Re: Flooding engine when parked nose down [steve_]
Dec 26, 2011 (7:42 am)
Off topic but seventeen years in Anchorage? wow! I watch Alaska State Troopers just to see how people live up there. I wonder how cops drive those Crown Victorias year round, although at one time I saw somebody driving an old Chevette around Juneau, amazing.
#508 of 513 Re: Flooding engine when parked nose down [rockmobile]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Dec 26, 2011 (8:59 am)
Well, it was actually 20 winters all told. Lots of beaters running around up there. Don't really need AWD or 4WD if you have decent tires and don't go up steep roads or driveways much (I mostly had FWD rigs but the best snow car was a 70ish VW SuperBeetle).
After a decade thawing out in Boise, we landed in the UP of MI on Lake Superior; even more remote than Alaska in some ways, but it's nice being able to hop in the Quest and get to America in a half day instead of taking three or four days just to drive down the Alcan.
Haven't needed them, but at least there is a Nissan dealer sort of near me.
#509 of 513 97 Villager No Spark
Jan 08, 2012 (11:47 am)
Ran out of gas (new vehicle to me, gauge wasn't at the bottom yet). Put gas in. Wouldn't start. Pounded gas tank. Started, ran fine for a couple of weeks, maybe a hundred miles. Stopped at a convenient store for a soda, came out, no start. Walked to an auto parts store next door, bought starter fluid, sprayed it in, engine started and ran until the starter fluid ran out.
Checked fuel pump switch by driver's left knee; was not popped out, but pushed it down to be sure it was properly engaged. Crank, no start.
Had Villager towed home, dropped tank and pulled pump. Bench tested, bad. Put in new pump, checked function: key on, gas squirted out onto the garage floor. Connected hoses, put tank back up. Still, no start. Just for grins, re-tested old pump, and it ran fine. Scary. Identified a ground in the engine compartment with a meter, pulled the coil wire, set it next to the ground, cranked engine in the dark: no spark. Pulled the connector to the distributor, turned key on, checked: one of the wires showed 12 v. Reconnected to the distributor, cranked, no start.
Pulled distributor cap, cranked, watched rotor turn. Replaced cap.
Checked all fuses and relays involved; all good.
Now what? I'm Desperate. I need this van for my business, not to mention that survival itself is a problem in this country without wheels. Does anyone have a clue?
#510 of 513 Your battery may be low to crank ...
Jan 08, 2012 (7:10 pm)
It sounds your battery may not be good, so you had inconsistent state each and every time you start your van. In general, battery should have 12.66 volt with 6 parts each contribute 2.11 volt. When you measure and has 12 volt, it is less than 30% electricity left. Your gauge was not at bottom, meaning your did not run out of gas, so even if you added gas at the first place, the state of your van not changed.
The battery may have died before, and, once jumped, it needs to take a long way to recover, such as 2 full hour of high way ride without head light on (say, during day time), or get an electric charger to charge over night each weekend for 4 weekends ...etc. Or just replace a new one, or Pep Boys may charge your battery free for you with their higher power charger, faster.
#511 of 513 Btw, to check your fuel pump, just turn the key half will do ...
Jan 08, 2012 (7:34 pm)
Btw, to check your fuel pump, just turn the key half will do. In other words, if your fuel line has water and frozen in winter, the fuel may not be able to flow to enable start. What you need to do is turn your key half way before start your engine, and leave it there for a few seconds, and you shall here the homing sounds, that just tells you that your fuel pump is working, no need to go through hard way to check further.
If your fuel line or gas tank has water, which is normal for old cars, you may get a bottle of Heet of 12 oz to put into your gas tank and anti-freeze the water and get out the water of your fuel line and gas tank.
My Nissan Quest 94 had problem the other day when it went down to 9 degrees, and I pour in a bottle of 12 oz iso-Heet (5 times more powerful than yellow bottle) and it runs fine right away.
#512 of 513 1999 quest hesitates studders almost dies at light
Nov 01, 2013 (11:29 am)
#513 of 513 1999 quest hesitates studders almost dies at light
Nov 01, 2013 (11:29 am)
My van has always ran great. I guess im lucky. Aa few weeks ago I noticed there was a slight hesitation thenall of a sudden it started to almost die at lights would studder or hesitate. I replaced fuel filter seem to help somebut still have miss in it.
I then changed cap and rotor and plugs. I took it to parts store ran test I had no engine light come on and it said knock sensor was only code.i was a it was running alittle funny but was still driveable. The next day I stopped and put gss in and drove 200 feet and it died in intersection it always starts right up. Made it up street to friends house and parked sence I had done every thing else I thought it was fuel pump.cause when it was running fuff where I parked my friend got out a baseball bat and hit the gas tank it seemed to run better . I shut it off and restarted it it ran bad repeated the baseball bat test it seem to smothe out. So I pulled the tank out and changed fuel pump.it seems to run fine for a few minutes as soon as I left to drive home it started not started missing again and stuttering.made it back to friends house and park itthat was for the night Monday morning I took it to the dealerand they said that that alpha code or something said it was running rich. I do have aexhsust leak where the back manifold goes in to that flex line over trany. They want to charge me 8oo to fix. Thats before they try something else.they couldnt tell me what was the problem. Said maybe o2 or Maf but didnt know for shure. I dont wsnt to give them the ok to just start throwing parts at it hoping some thing will work any help would be appreciated.