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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Problems

511 messages,  Last post on Jan 08, 2012 at 8:34 PM

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What is this discussion about? Nissan Quest, Mercury Villager, Van

Messages Page 51 of 52

#492 of 511 Re: 1997 Villager Gas Vapor after running in warm weather [lorenajack] by rockmobile

Aug 30, 2011 (8:18 pm)

Replying to: lorenajack (Aug 30, 2011 1:13 pm)
Before you spend any money google and research 'vapor canister and check valve' for you vehicle. It is something usually neglected that can cause some emission problems. Not sure if that would be the problem but it's something you can look into.
 

#493 of 511 Re: 1997 Villager Gas Vapor after running in warm weather [lorenajack] by nissanquest94

Aug 30, 2011 (9:19 pm)

Replying to: lorenajack (Aug 30, 2011 1:13 pm)
No, I did not say you have a defective PCV valve which is just one of three places to apply Seafoam, the other two are crankcase and gas tank. This is just general cost effective cleaning of lots of things that could have caused subtle problems.
 
Last time, my Nissan Quest 94 had similar problem, when I used Engine Restorer, all the bad smells all gone, in addition to have very quiet engine and higher millage ...etc.
 
If you suspect the evaporative system, it often includes an incorrect or defective gas cap which you said you have replaced but not fixed the problem.
 
It could also be a sticking open or closed evaporative "canister vent" control valve, or a canister coming apart inside, allowing charcoal to be distributed throughout the evap system - plugging up the evap "canister purge" control valve and the evap "canister purge volume" control valve.
 
Disconnected, plugged or cracked vacuum lines can also result in evaporative system codes being set.

#494 of 511 Re: 1997 Villager Gas Vapor after running in warm weather [rockmobile] by lorenajack

Aug 31, 2011 (9:19 am)

Replying to: rockmobile (Aug 30, 2011 8:18 pm)
Lots of good tips from you wonderful fellas!
I will check them all out, and put the additives that are recommended by all.
 
When I finally get this problem solved, I will post the fix so that others
can benefit from this problem. This 97 Villager has just 87,000 miles on it.
This problem started about maybe 2 years ago or less. Can't remember
for sure.
 
Thanks again, guys!!

#495 of 511 Re: 1997 Villager Gas Vapor after running in warm weather [lorenajack] by nissanquest94

Aug 31, 2011 (3:00 pm)

Replying to: lorenajack (Aug 31, 2011 9:19 am)
I often went to Pep Boys, Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts to just describe the problem and ask them which additives should be used and how to apply, and you will learn a lot. In many cases, the problem is common to many cars and the solution is unbelievably simple and cost effective.
 
If you go to auto mechanics first, they may tell you to replace this and that, and that cost a lot and may or may not solve the problem. Auto mechanics is like "surgeon" and "additive" is like "pharmacy". In general, you would consult 3 docotors for 2nd or 3rd opinion before having "surgery", and I do the same for my nissan quest 94 too. However, just like human body, many health problem can be cured by "drug", in the car is "additives".

#496 of 511 I really like this Engine Restorer for my Nissan Quest 94 by nissanquest94

Oct 14, 2011 (9:36 pm)

A while ago, I finally went to Valvoline drive thru to have my oil and oil filter changed after 3 years, but the problem came because although they used 5w30 Valvoline oil, I forgot to ask them to add Engine Restorer which I had it in last tank of oil
 
After all these months, my Nissan Quest 94 finally shows some room for my oil crankcase, and I just add a can of Engine Restorer. As planned, I just add the smallest one for 4 cylinder, not 6 cylinder, cheaper and not much room needed.
 
Wow! I got that magic power immediately back. Engine quiet down, much more power, no noise, no smoke, good smell. I thought it would be good to let everyone know.
 
Now, I even carry another can of Engine Restorer in my Nissan Quest 94, and whenever I saw old cars on road or parking lot with not so smooth engine, I just introduce this wonderful magic to them.
 
I even went out of my way to make sure people do not over change their engine oil and filter. e.g. Every time I would ask people for their driver's manual, and I showed them the page where the manual said change oil and oil filter at 15,000 miles, not 3,000 miles. I found myself read so many driver's manuals of all kinds of cars, and, believe or not, NONE says change every 3,000 miles or 3 months, just NONE!!!!

#497 of 511 problem of 99 Mercury Villager by plui

Oct 15, 2011 (12:10 am)

My van ran fine at beginning. It started hesitation and service engine light came on after I ran the vehicle for 5 or 6 miles. I had to keep it running in 20 mile mph to a safe place and remove the negative cable, turn head light on for 10 minutes before I put back the cable. I went on to go home after half hour and the engine cooled down a little bit. I had a mechanic to remove the intake manifold and sprayed the throttle cleaner to housing of throttle, but it won't work. The car is still ran rough after 5 or 6 miles. I replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, rotor, spark plugs already, but the problem is still existed. Please give me an advise.
 
Kindly Regards,
 
Peter L

#498 of 511 Re: problem of 99 Mercury Villager [plui] by nissanquest94

Oct 15, 2011 (6:21 am)

Replying to: plui (Oct 15, 2011 12:10 am)
Have you tried to put a bottle of yellow Heet 12oz into your gas tank Normally, for cars old enough, the gas tank may have accumulated enough water to make your engine hesitate at higher speed, so a dry gas like Heet may works right away.
 
See if the problem repeats when you "fill up the gas tank" with Top Tier Gas such as Exxon, Mobile, Shell ...etc. The reason is because only exceed certain % of water in your gas tank will cause the problem, such as 4%, and when you fill the gas tank, the % drops, and your van good again. Just "regular gas" will do.
 
Then, you keep a bottle of dry gas additive such as above mention yell bottle Heet 12oz in your van, and when your gas tank dropped to give you hesitation, you pour the bottle in to remove the water from gas tank.
 
If yellow bottle Heet 12oz is not powerful enough, you may consider red bottle iso-Heet 12oz which claims to have 5 time more power to remove the water.
 
Not sure why you remove the negative cable and turn on head light for 10 minutes? But, one thing I often check is if my battery has sufficient voltage, need to have 12.66v, even if you still got 12.30v, that is only 40% electricity left, may be able to crank the engine, but may have problem later such as hesitation when you turn on headlight or turning signal, or even brake at traffic light (at that time, your 3 brake light on consuming already weak electricity)
 
Your throttle should have been clean enough, other wise, you can not even start your van at the first place. Remember, you need air, gas and electricity to run your van well, and since you could start and run 5 to 6 miles fine, meaning all three were good till then. Air intake often more consistent, but electricity may or may not depending on how much in your battery; that's why I use "electricity charger" to charge my van every morning just like charging cell phone. When I did this initially after winter when my Nissan Quest 94 started having similar problem, it took about 2 hours to charge to good level, then it drops to 1 hour, to 30 minutes, now it often just take 5 minutes; in other words, I now change to charge it every few days, and may be just every weekend. Your auto mechanics replace spark plugs and rotor seemed to because of this suspicion. On the other hand, if your van can drive 5 to 6 miles fine, they should be fine.
 
So, the only suspect is gas, so your auto mechanics replaced your fuel pump, fuel filter, but, as you know it has nothing to do with that. Just like if you eat something bad with stomach pain, would you go surgeon and replace your stomach? No, you want to go toilet to get all the bad things out asap. In this case, you may have got the water in your gas tank from some very cheap gas station, which is fine usually, but do not get it right before gas station refilled by oil tank truck as the level of gas at reservoir is low and more likely to get water.

#499 of 511 Re: Flooding engine when parked nose down [jplain88] by mcmotley2003

Dec 02, 2011 (7:09 pm)

Replying to: jplain88 (Aug 26, 2008 11:24 pm)
you have leaky injectors the vales that seal them internaly when you turn off your vehickle hang open alowing the fule to drip into cylinders causing premature flood out. Run a heavy injector cleaner through the system after aweek the deposits should clear from the injectors and the problem should disapate if not look into replacing various problem injectors, good luck

#501 of 511 Re: Flooding engine when parked nose down [jplain88] by nissanquest94

Dec 25, 2011 (3:48 am)

Replying to: jplain88 (Aug 26, 2008 11:24 pm)
On the one hand, your description sounds like the flood issue. On the other hand, may be your battery is weak; how old is the battery?
 
Always keep in mind, many subtle problems often came from weak battery, so the first thing I did was always "use electric charger" to charge my battery for an hour or two and see the improvement.
 
If you drive local often (under 10 miles one way) as many people did after Economy problem or van getting older, your van battery may not get fully charged, so it may help to charge a few hours every week or two.
 
Fuel injector cleaners into gas tank also help; I found it often help injection system consume less electricity and more electricity generated by alternator charged back to battery or for other use such as head lights and brake and brake lights.
 
I also found Engine Restorer fantastic, when pour into engine oil crankcase, the van immediately powerful, quiet, no odd smell, more mileage and the battery seems to get charged much better ...

Messages Page 51 of 52

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