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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Problems

511 messages,  Last post on Jan 08, 2012 at 8:34 PM

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What is this discussion about? Nissan Quest, Mercury Villager, Van

Messages Page 50 of 52

#486 of 511 Re: 1996 Nissan Quest bank 1 lean [ihateefilol] by nissanquest94

Aug 10, 2011 (7:10 pm)

Replying to: ihateefilol (Aug 10, 2011 6:11 pm)
Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.
 
In other words, your fuel did not seem to be pump into the place in time. When was last time you change your "fuel filter" ? If you got new and good "fuel filter" already, there could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor. The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor maybe dirty or faulty. In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick.
 
You may get this Gumout® All-In-One®
Fuel System Cleaner and fill in your gas tank to see how much the situation improved. I have spoken to many Walmart auto mechanics who drive really old cars; they also use this additive to clean their fuel system.

#487 of 511 Re: Figured it out that was bad gas [nissanquest94] by nissanquest94

Aug 24, 2011 (1:00 am)

Replying to: nissanquest94 (Aug 08, 2011 11:32 pm)
Surprisingly, this time Walmart in town also got STP Gas Treatment sold out , but I already got the STP coupon from this website, just $1, instead of $2.
 
So, I decided to try something else, and I found this grey bottle STP Complete Fuel System Cleaner that my $1 coupon also applies.
 
Since it says has to have at least half tank full and treat up to 21 gallon, so I waited till I fill the gas tank again, and this morning I added the whole bottle. After a few hours letting it mixed with full tank of gas, I found it is great! It seems to make engine start easier and restore much more power. Will see more cleaning in the next days to drive.

#488 of 511 Regularly Charging Battery of my Nissan Quest 1994 ... by nissanquest94

Aug 24, 2011 (1:14 am)

I was wondering what would it happen if I use "electrical charger" to charge my Nissan Quest 94 battery EVERY DAY just like I charge my cell phone. So, I charged it every morning the first thing I did when I get up.
 
Amazing! It starts with 6amp charger to charge and the meter gradually goes down from 5amp, 4amp to 3amp ...etc to 1amp for trickle charging, and it took an hour or two to reach that state. May be because my batter died after winter. People often just replace a brand new battery; I did not.
 
After a few weeks, the charging time reduced, and now it only takes about 10 to 15 minutes to go from 6amp to 1amp, and last time when I went change oil and oil filter (after 3 years!), Valvoline Express gave me a good battery check on the report.
 
Only when it rains or bad weather, it took longer to charge up the battery.
 
Recently, I notice, amazing! the two posts of the battery have no corrosion; it seems all reversed. So, I did not need to clean the posts and they all gone by themselves.

#489 of 511 1997 Villager Gas Vapor after running in warm weather by lorenajack

Aug 29, 2011 (3:22 pm)

In hot weather, after running this vehicle for a while, I smell a strong gas odor.
It is coming from the gas filler area. When I remove the gas cap, vapors literally
roar out of the tank. It takes a minute or more for all to escape. Seems like there is
a buildup of gas fumes that are not being (recycled) or purged from the system.
 
I installed a new gas cap a while back, but the problem still exists.
I have to part the van outside for a couple of hours to keep the gas vapors from
filling up the garage. What do I need to fix or investigate? Thank you !!!!

#490 of 511 Re: 1997 Villager Gas Vapor after running in warm weather [lorenajack] by nissanquest94

Aug 29, 2011 (10:23 pm)

Replying to: lorenajack (Aug 29, 2011 3:22 pm)
Have you tried to put some Seafoam into your gas tank, PCV valve and engine crankcase to clean the van?
 
The blowby vapors that end up in an engine's crankcase contain moisture as well as combustion byproducts and unburned fuel vapors. The crankcase is sealed to prevent the escape of these gases into the atmosphere, but the vapors must be removed to prevent oil contamination that leads to sludge formation. The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system siphons these vapors from the crankcase and routes them into the intake manifold so they can be reburned in the engine.
 
The main component in the PCV system is the PCV valve, which is usually located in the valve cover. A hose connects the PCV valve to the intake manifold. A second hose between the air cleaner and crankcase or other valve cover (V6 or V8 applications) provides fresh air to help flush the vapors out of the crankcase. Some engines have a separate air filter for the PCV breather hose located inside the air cleaner.
 
The PCV valve is a spring-loaded valve with a specific orifice size designed to restrict the amount of air that's siphoned from the crankcase into the intake manifold. This is necessary because air drawn through the valve from the crankcase has a leaning effect on the fuel mixture much the same as a vacuum leak. So air flow through the valve must be controlled within certain limits. At idle, air flow is reduced because little blowby is produced. When the engine is cruising and vacuum is high, airflow through the PCV valve is at a maximum to purge the blowby vapors from the crankcase.
 
It's important to note that PCV valves are sized for specific engine applications. The wrong PCV valve for an application can flow too much or too little air causing driveability problems. Varnish deposits can clog the valve, so replacement for preventative maintenance is recommended (every 50,000 miles usually).
 
Not all engines have PCV valves. Some (like Ford Escort, GM FWD cars with the Quad Four engine, etc.) ventilate the crankcase with a small breather hose and calibrated orifice. There is no spring-loaded PCV valve. On these applications, no maintenance is usually necessary.

#491 of 511 Re: 1997 Villager Gas Vapor after running in warm weather [nissanquest94] by lorenajack

Aug 30, 2011 (1:13 pm)

Replying to: nissanquest94 (Aug 29, 2011 10:23 pm)
I have replaced PCV valves in the past, so I am familiar with them and
their purpose.
 
But wondering if a defective PCV valve would cause very high pressure
buildup inside the gas tank itself? It almost seems like some gas
vapor recycle system is not kicking-in and purging this buildup of gas
vapors back into some engine intake mechanism.
 
When I remove the gas cap, raw gas vapors REALLY roar out which
leads me to believe some pressure regulator (?) is not kicking in to reduce
this gas tank pressure.
 
Does this make sense to you??

#492 of 511 Re: 1997 Villager Gas Vapor after running in warm weather [lorenajack] by rockmobile

Aug 30, 2011 (8:18 pm)

Replying to: lorenajack (Aug 30, 2011 1:13 pm)
Before you spend any money google and research 'vapor canister and check valve' for you vehicle. It is something usually neglected that can cause some emission problems. Not sure if that would be the problem but it's something you can look into.
 

#493 of 511 Re: 1997 Villager Gas Vapor after running in warm weather [lorenajack] by nissanquest94

Aug 30, 2011 (9:19 pm)

Replying to: lorenajack (Aug 30, 2011 1:13 pm)
No, I did not say you have a defective PCV valve which is just one of three places to apply Seafoam, the other two are crankcase and gas tank. This is just general cost effective cleaning of lots of things that could have caused subtle problems.
 
Last time, my Nissan Quest 94 had similar problem, when I used Engine Restorer, all the bad smells all gone, in addition to have very quiet engine and higher millage ...etc.
 
If you suspect the evaporative system, it often includes an incorrect or defective gas cap which you said you have replaced but not fixed the problem.
 
It could also be a sticking open or closed evaporative "canister vent" control valve, or a canister coming apart inside, allowing charcoal to be distributed throughout the evap system - plugging up the evap "canister purge" control valve and the evap "canister purge volume" control valve.
 
Disconnected, plugged or cracked vacuum lines can also result in evaporative system codes being set.

#494 of 511 Re: 1997 Villager Gas Vapor after running in warm weather [rockmobile] by lorenajack

Aug 31, 2011 (9:19 am)

Replying to: rockmobile (Aug 30, 2011 8:18 pm)
Lots of good tips from you wonderful fellas!
I will check them all out, and put the additives that are recommended by all.
 
When I finally get this problem solved, I will post the fix so that others
can benefit from this problem. This 97 Villager has just 87,000 miles on it.
This problem started about maybe 2 years ago or less. Can't remember
for sure.
 
Thanks again, guys!!

#495 of 511 Re: 1997 Villager Gas Vapor after running in warm weather [lorenajack] by nissanquest94

Aug 31, 2011 (3:00 pm)

Replying to: lorenajack (Aug 31, 2011 9:19 am)
I often went to Pep Boys, Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts to just describe the problem and ask them which additives should be used and how to apply, and you will learn a lot. In many cases, the problem is common to many cars and the solution is unbelievably simple and cost effective.
 
If you go to auto mechanics first, they may tell you to replace this and that, and that cost a lot and may or may not solve the problem. Auto mechanics is like "surgeon" and "additive" is like "pharmacy". In general, you would consult 3 docotors for 2nd or 3rd opinion before having "surgery", and I do the same for my nissan quest 94 too. However, just like human body, many health problem can be cured by "drug", in the car is "additives".

Messages Page 50 of 52

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