Last post on Nov 01, 2013 at 12:29 PM
You are in the Nissan Quest
What is this discussion about?
Nissan Quest, Mercury Villager, Van
#365 of 513 Re: 2000 nissan quest [canyonsvo]
Nov 07, 2010 (3:45 pm)
Hi, I have a 1999 Quest (as does my Boss). We have both had the same problem. The car stutters...gets worse over time and then eventually dies. The first times it died, it would re start. The last time, I was going down the interstate and it slowly started loosing power (I was trying to accelerate.), died & wouldn't start. There were metal pieces found around the distributor somewhere. The distributor was replaced & the problem solved. Enter my 1999. I have replaced the distributor twice (1st time about 3 months ago & the latest 3 wks.ago) & the problems just happened again. I was on the interstate going 65 when it suddenly started loosing power. The engine was dead within 3minutes. It would re start but died immediately. The car was towed & I am sitting in a motel (Sun.). I am unemployed so scared about what the dealer is going to say tomorrow. Can ANYONE help?
#366 of 513 Re: 2000 nissan quest [canyonsvo] Reply
Nov 07, 2010 (4:09 pm)
I suspect the bearing or sleeve that the distributor fits into is disintegrating. Putting a new distributor tightens up the connection until the distributor shaft gets loose from whoppling (SP?). If you take a permanent fine point felt tip marker and make a line on the case and the distributor you can identify where to reinstall the distributor without changing the timing. Remove the distributor by loosing the bolts and lift the distributor straight out and inspect the bearing and case mount. Depending on the condition of this will determine what the fix will be and the cost. Hopefully it isn't too badly damaged, but if you noticed shavings I suspect it is in bad shape.
If the case/bearing is not bad, I would suspect Faulty Plug wires and/or Spark plugs. I was tearing my hair out after replacing them both more than once until I got Iridium Plugs and Nissan plug wires. The Mercury Villager plugs and wires are the same but the p[lug wires have an unbelievable list price of $293. Nissan was less than half that which is still expensive. But unless you build your own wires from Hi performance racing components or buy the Nissan plugs and wires they won't work.
Another option is to take the van to a Parts supplier like Auto Zone and have them run the codes on the problem. They will do it for free as to paying a dealer $100 to do the same.
Hope this helps.
#367 of 513 2000 villager lurching
Dec 07, 2010 (11:39 am)
My dad owns a 2000 villager and around 1 month ago it started lurching really bad going down the road so he shifted into second gear and ran the RPM's up to almost redline for a few seconds and that cleared it up. however from that point on it does the same thing, You will be going down the road and running good then all of a sudden it will do the same thing. Now just the other day Dad was driving to work and it started acting up again. Well this time it stalled and would not start. Now that it is home it starts only after cranking and cranking. After it starts it spits and sputters. We where told that the mass air flow sensor is the problem so we got on and it made no change. Could this be a vacuum problem? What should I look at next?
#368 of 513 Re: 2000 villager lurching [mike1811]
Dec 07, 2010 (7:07 pm)
My suggestion would be to check the distributor shaft, bearing and the case it fits into. They have a history of going bad and letting the shaft wallow around.
I've replaced several different sensors and they don't seem to make a difference with symptoms similar to yours.
#369 of 513 Re: Intermitent stalling [jonv05]
Dec 07, 2010 (7:23 pm)
I would absolutely blame it on the plugs. I have a 2000 villager and had intermittent problems and spent thousands and replaced plugs 3 or 4 times and plugs wires twice. It turned out the correction was that I needed original equipment plug wires and Iridium Spark plugs. Once I put both in, it worked great and has for about 4-5000 miles. One symptom I had was that if you stopped at a light, in park, foot on the brake it would run rough, especially when hot or when the A/C was on.
The price for new wires from Ford is incredible. List $298, seriously. I went to Nissan (Quest is the same) and got them for about $130. still high but it solved the problem.
#370 of 513 Starting Problem
Mar 29, 2011 (6:03 pm)
I have a 95 Villager that won't start consistently.
It acts like the battery is dead (clicking but won't turn the engine over). Over the last few months I replaced the starter, the inhibitor relay and had both the starter and the battery checked repeatedly.
I replaced the battery 3 days ago and had no more problems until today. I replaced the starter today and nothing. I confirmed 12v at the signal wire on the starter when turning the key. There was no significant voltage drop at the battery when trying to start.
If anyone has any ideas please help.
#371 of 513 2006 Quest 3.5 SE - Battery/Electrical Problems
Mar 30, 2011 (6:22 am)
I have a 2006 Nissan Quest 3.5 SE that was purchased new in Jan. of 06. The original Nissan battery gave out this month (March 2011) and I purchased a new 800cc battery (Exide brand) from Strauss Auto here in New York City. The battery was installed, but the indicator light was still coming on, so the mechanics tested the electrical system and found I needed a new alternator. So that was installed along with the new battery. This was last week.
Even with the new battery and alternator though, the battery indicator light was still coming on (and the brake light too). This would happen after starting the van up in the morning. About 20 to 30 minutes later those lights would go out. I figured maybe something was going on with the indicators being off. Then last Friday (3/23) about 30 minutes into driving in the morning, I had lost acceleration. The battery and brake indicators were still on, but the engine was still running – I just had no acceleration.
After pulling over (using the van’s inertia) I let the engine stay on. After about 15 minutes the battery and brake lights went off and I had acceleration again. I went to a nearby garage where they tested the NEW battery, and they said it was a weak charge – basically saying this supposedly “new” battery was bad.
After putting in their own battery, the charge was stronger. I took the Strauss battery back to the store where they tested it (out of the vehicle) and claimed it was a good battery. I put the Strauss/Exide battery back in and again; this time no battery or brake light comes on.
Only after sitting for a few hours or overnight do those lights come on again. I then took it to another Strauss store – this one with a garage (the first Strauss store had none) – where they tested the battery and claimed it was good. So now I’m wondering what’s going on? Is it the battery or something else?
Fast forward to today where on my way home, the van stalls again; engine still running, but no acceleration. I keep the engine on. I call my insurance for roadside assistance. While waiting I try to accelerate – the engine would rev-up, but no acceleration. When the tow truck arrived, the mechanic had me put it in reverse. THEN it decides to accelerate. The difference is though that the “Service Engine Soon” light now comes on. The mechanic told me that it’s either the battery, or there could be an electrical short somewhere that’s draining the battery while everything is supposedly “off” (I do make sure everything is indeed off – lights, heat, radio – EVERYTHING)
I’m going to take the vehicle to the Nissan dealership and have them look at it (at more expense because the dealership in Manhattan is VERY expensive for service), but I want to get to the bottom of this. In the meantime, if anyone here has any idea as to what’s going on with my van, let me know. Is it the battery that’s defective, or is there a power short somewhere in the electrical system? Or is it something else?
#372 of 513 Re: idling Villager [adambrunetx2e]
May 17, 2011 (4:03 am)
The problem seemed to be the dirty throttle body, especially the edge of throttle plate. (see this http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/idleproblems.html#toolow ).
The solution is just simply clean it, just a few easy steps. (see this http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ee93b52/1443#MSG1443 )
The root cause seemed to be "overfill the engine oil" and cold time oil gets thicker, harder to startup, and when you see "blue smoke" that means oil leak to and burn by engine.
A simple solution is change oil (as suggested) and add Engine Restorer or the like to thin up the engine, and because my Nissan Quest 94 leak out oil as well and I just simply add a can of Engine Restorer without changing the dirty oil (I did not change oil and filter since 2008, 3 years! well, I did not change because engine oil leak out, every 3 to 6 months I add a quart of 5w30 when LOW OIL light on), the problem relief after first drive and gone after second drive, and magically, the bad smell of engine gone, and engine became quiet, and engine oil gets CLEANER!)
#373 of 513 Re: 2006 Quest 3.5 SE - Battery/Electrical Problems [frankarthur]
May 17, 2011 (4:51 am)
When you have the problem: the engine would rev-up, but no acceleration. It often tells your transmission may have problem. That's why the towing guy tried to shift to reverse to see if it work. Nonetheless, it may work sometime and not working sometimes depends on if transmission gear up, and that all needs "strong electricity". When your battery not supplying enough electricity, any good car may start behaves odd.
Therefore, always keep in mind that "electricity" is often the root cause of problems came from "no problem car", and it seems you problem all came from a "dead battery".
The "dead battery" not necessarily a dead one, it often because the charging system not charge enough or died, i.e. the alternator. In any case, you can check yourself very easily, saving all the trips.
You get a voltmeter at auto parts store, very cheap, and do the following simple measurement.
1. just measure the battery voltage to see if it is 12.66 at cold.
1a. measure the battery, put one plug on "connection to red pole" and another on battery black pole. (if red connect bad, you see it is not 12.66)
1b. do the same thing but on black pole connection.
1c. if you see your voltmeter do not have steady reading, that means your connection is not fully connected or corroded, need to clean. If you only got about 50% connected that will give you non deterministic result, sometimes car work, sometimes not, also your charging system (alternator) may not be able to charge 100% back to your battery, soon or later, your battery will die, but it may take a long time. (it will make you feel somewhere "leaking electricity", but is NOT).
2. turn on the engine and do the measure again to see if your alternator is charging your battery. If it does, the reading should be something like 14+ depending on temperature and state of your battery.
2a. b. again measure the way stated above to see how stable your charging system charges your battery, or at all. The alternator is NOT that easy to die (e.g. my Nissan Quest 94 still has original alternator; I bought it new and 17 years passed!), but is expensive to replace, so many inexperienced or dishonest auto services love to direct you to change your alternator at your panic.
3. You may often find your alternator is good and battery is bad because your "connection" is corroded and not 100% conduct the electric current either from your battery to dozens places in your car that need it, or not allow alternator 100% charging your battery, eventually run low the battery. Even worse, that creates non deterministic behavior of your car. e.g. when battery low, you may see your dashboard half lighting, half ok, and/or your left turn signal light not flashing ...etc. Keep in mind, nothing wrong with your car, just not enough electric current.
3a. get an electric charger from auto parts store, very cheap, and charge your battery for 15 minutes or so, it is back to normal but run low. Better charge overnight and it became a good one again. If you let your car charges your battery back full, it may take over 2 hours of highway run in day time, without letting headlight on.
p.s. I went to UC Berkeley both under and graduate major in electrical engineering and computer science. I got top score at Circuit Theory there.
#374 of 513 1995 Villager GS - Stall - Please Help.Thank you.
May 31, 2011 (10:38 pm)
My 1995 Villager GS just around 125,000k runs good during winter or cold weather ,but in summer if i turn my A/C for few times(20 minutes every hour) or/and drive around busy traffic Van will stall with out any shake or reason !!! Van never over heat , have full battery power, coolants,enough gas . it will start again but die in few seconds with symptoms of spitting,chocking . if engine start to runs again but won't move as i shift to drive or reverse and seems like not getting enough gas or power to move. Then wait 15-20 minutes without trying to start any more then Van runs fine again. Did Changed spark plugs and wires,distributor cap,new fuel filter,air filter but it still happen every time if use A/C in hot days. Some day its runs fine but its not all the time.I really have no luck to figure out and when ever i take it to mechanic its runs fine ! Family with kids its really scare me all the time when i drive . Please help me out if you know what i am trying to explain about my Van and the symptoms. Thank you all for your time,help and advice.