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Chevrolet Lumina Maintenance and Repair

133 messages,  Last post on Sep 04, 2009 at 3:02 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Lumina Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Lumina, Sedan


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#114 of 133
This piece of crap by notafan0102
Apr 27, 2009 (3:20 pm)
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Hey, does anyone know the access code to reprogram the security lockout?
I took it to a Mech and he said that the security lockout has to be recoded to
the key... is there a way to bypass it or something?
#115 of 133
Re: need a bit of help [bigdograin] by mike356
May 20, 2009 (8:48 pm)
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Replying to: bigdograin (May 21, 2008 7:59 pm)

yo if it turns over, go by some starting fluid, and spray it in the vacuum lines, leave them unplugged and then start it. it should start if not do it again for like 3 seconds and should start then. if not then i dont know. i've got bad fuel injectors and i've tried all the cleaners for fuel additives and so on. they dont help the starting process
i recomend you buy starting fluid and spray the vacuum lines.. IF it starts, plug the lines back in and she'll run just right.
#116 of 133
Front end by ledzep2
May 23, 2009 (5:21 am)
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I can't get a straight answer on whether I need a left front strut,left front axle, ball joints or cv joint. How can I tell which I need or who is telling me the truth?
#117 of 133
Re: Front end [ledzep2] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
May 23, 2009 (6:49 am)
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Replying to: ledzep2 (May 23, 2009 5:21 am)

Well let's see.
 
STRUT --You can bounce up and down on the left front of the car, listen for noise, or compare the resistance to the other corners of the car. You can also shine a flashlight on the strut and look for oil dripping out of it.
 
AXLE -- there is no way NO WAY to visually tell if an axle CV joint is bad unless you disassemble it. But you can see if the axle boot is torn, which may only mean to replace the boot, not the whole joint, and you can drive the car in very tight left or right circles and listen for a steady clunking noise which appears in a regular rotational sound of clunking, and goes away as you straighten the wheel. For a bad LEFT axle CV joint, you'd make tight RIGHT circles.
 
BALL JOINT -- a jack can be placed under them and the wear (slack) in them can be measured or estimated. Anything more than 1/8" play up and down is probably too much. If you can't see it move, then no sale.
 
If a shop cannot demonstrate to you the basis for their diagnosis, other than crystal ball, intuition, or dart board, then don't believe them.
#118 of 133
Fuel pressure regulator by maxhudson_1
May 29, 2009 (2:22 pm)
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I gotta 92' chev lumina euro 3.1 and the engine doesn't idle and when we took the vacum tubes off the carb gas seems to be leeking out as soon as you turn the key so its been flooding the engine we think its the fuel pressure regulator but not totally sure someone wanna help out?
#119 of 133
Re: Fuel pressure regulator [maxhudson_1] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
May 29, 2009 (3:40 pm)
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Replying to: maxhudson_1 (May 29, 2009 2:22 pm)

Don't think you have a carburetor on that puppy.
#120 of 133
Re: Fuel pressure regulator [Mr_Shiftright] by maxhudson_1
May 29, 2009 (4:15 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 29, 2009 3:40 pm)

well carb control intake whatever
#121 of 133
Re: Fuel pressure regulator [maxhudson_1] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
May 29, 2009 (4:59 pm)
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Replying to: maxhudson_1 (May 29, 2009 4:15 pm)

Multi Port Fuel Injection
 
You could have a sticking injector. Maybe this description will inspire you a bit:
 
OPERATION:
The fuel supply system begins with gasoline in the fuel tank. An electric fuel pump, located in the fuel tank with the fuel level gauge sending unit, pumps fuel to the fuel rail through an in-line filter. The pump is designed to supply fuel at a pressure above the pressure needed by the injectors. A pressure regulator located on the fuel rail keeps the fuel available to the injectors at a constant pressure. The unused fuel is returned to the fuel tank by a separate line.
 
MODES OF OPERATION:
The ECM uses voltage inputs from several sensors to determine how much fuel to give the engine. The fuel is delivered under several conditions, called "Modes." All modes are controlled by the ECM, and are described below.
 
Starting Mode:
When the ignition is first turned "ON," the Electronic Control Module (ECM) turns "ON" the fuel pump relay for two seconds, allowing the fuel pump to build up system pressure. If the engine is immediately started, the fuel pump will continue to operate. If the key is left in the "ON" position, but the engine is not started, the ECM will turn the pump "OFF." The fuel pump will remain "OFF" until the ECM detects the crank signal, or in the case of a faulty fuel pump relay, the oil pressure switch detects approximately 4 psi of oil pressure which will then bypass the fuel pump relay.
 
Fuel delivery from the port injectors (which deliver fuel in all operating modes) is controlled by changing the amount of time the injectors are turned on or "pulsed" by the ECM. The ECM checks the coolant temperature sensor, throttle position sensor, and the crank signal, and determines the proper air/fuel ratio for starting. This ranges from 1.5:1 at -36°C (-33°F) to 14.7:1 at 94°C (201°F).
 
Clear Flood Mode:
If the engine floods, clear it by pushing the accelerator all the way down. The ECM then turns "OFF" the injectors. The ECM holds this injector flow rate as long as the throttle stays wide open and the engine rpm is below 600. If the throttle position becomes less than 65%, the ECM returns to the starting mode.
 
Run Mode:
The run mode has two conditions, called "OPEN LOOP" and "CLOSED LOOP."
 
OPEN LOOP: When the engine is first started, and engine speed is above 400 rpm, the system goes into "OPEN LOOP" operation. In "OPEN LOOP," the ECM ignores the signal from the Oxygen sensor, and calculates the air/fuel ratio based on inputs from the coolant temperature, throttle position, and the mass air flow (MAF) sensors.
 
The system will stay in "OPEN LOOP" until the following conditions are met:
 
   1. The Oxygen sensor has a varying voltage output, showing that it is hot enough to operate properly. (This depends on temperature.)
   2. The Coolant temperature is above a specified temperature.
   3. A specified amount of time has elapsed after starting the engine. CLOSED LOOP: The specified operating conditions vary with different engines, and are stored in the memory calibration module (Mem-Cal). When these conditions are met, the system goes into "CLOSED LOOP" operation. In "CLOSED LOOP," the ECM calculates the air/fuel ratio (injector on-time) based on the signal from the Oxygen sensor. This allows the air/fuel ratio to stay very close to 14.7:1.
 
Acceleration Mode:
The ECM responds to rapid changes in throttle position and air flow, and provides extra fuel.
 
Deceleration Mode:
The ECM responds to changes in throttle position and air flow, and reduces the amount of fuel. When deceleration is very fast, the ECM can cut off fuel completely for short periods.
 
Battery Correction Mode:
When battery voltage is low, the ECM can compensate for the weak spark by:
 
   1. Increasing the amount of fuel delivered.
   2. Increasing the idle speed.
   3. Increasing the ignition dwell time.
#122 of 133
Re: Fuel pressure regulator [Mr_Shiftright] by maxhudson_1
May 29, 2009 (8:05 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 29, 2009 4:59 pm)

So how do you think i should go about fixing that how would i do it?
#123 of 133
Re: Fuel pressure regulator [maxhudson_1] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
May 30, 2009 (8:20 am)
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Replying to: maxhudson_1 (May 29, 2009 8:05 pm)

I guess you could start by checking fuel pressure at the fuel rail using a fuel pressure gauge, to see if it's too high. You probably need a workshop manual if you're going to tear into the fuel injection system on your own.

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