Last post on Dec 06, 2013 at 4:15 PM
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Toyota Sienna, Car Safety, Van
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#642 of 776 Door issue - I need a Reality Check - 'Controller' ?
Mar 12, 2012 (6:53 am)
My drivers side door on a 2004 Sienna has been making crunching sounds, and working sporadically. It usually works, but sometimes needs a pull to get started opening or a push to get fully closed. At times you can hear a slight crunching kind of noise. We take it into the Toyota dealer, because the typical auto repair and collision places didn't want to touch it.
The diagnosis is that it was a 'controller'; basically telling me it was an electronics issue. If it's an electronics issue - why is there a crunching noise as if something is jammed in there? And they tell me that the part is $651 plus $350 labor to replace.
Does this make sense to anyone? I feel that I'm being taken advantage of by the dealer in this situation.
#643 of 776 Re: Door issue - I need a Reality Check - 'Controller' ? [mtorg]
Mar 12, 2012 (7:41 am)
It's probably out of warranty, and given dealer rates are higher, it may be a good time to find a good private mechanic who knows Toyotas.
#644 of 776 Re: Door issue - I need a Reality Check - 'Controller' ? [mtorg]
Mar 12, 2012 (8:01 am)
I have the same problem several years ago... Toyota said the same thing about the motor is the problem and asking for 1500 to fix. I brought it to an independent mechanic and it was a L shape door hinge ( upper one ) that holding the door from the body that create the problem (The cushion somehow worn off, toyota used cheap parts). In my case, the door was not lifting high enough and it is creating friction with the body. When their is a friction the sensor will stop the door movement and causing it to stop in the middle of the door closing process and you need to pull it again to finish the process. It cost me $250 to replace the hinge and it is working since then.
I hope this will help.... good luck ... never buy another toyota again... this is not just the problems i have with the vans... there are lot more....
#645 of 776 Re: 2002 Sienna manual sliding door won't open [symphonydad]
Mar 12, 2012 (1:19 pm)
Well, I got both of my doors fixed. Before that, the plastic handle to the passenger sliding door broke. The handle repair was just under $200. Toyota would have charged that for the part. I had them cut the cable to the power door to make it manual and they fixed the drivers side door. The handle, both doors, replacing all dash lights and rear brake work was $505. I shudder to think what the bill from Toyota would've been.
Good luck out there.
#646 of 776 Re: Sliding doors stuck 2006 sienna [badtoyota3]
Mar 12, 2012 (9:15 pm)
The passenger-side sliding door of our '06 Sienna LE got stuck OPEN in restaurant parking lot in June of 2011. The dealership was nearby and the manager came to help us. He couldn't get it closed either. They gave us loaner and kept our van for 3 days to repair. They said they had not seen the problem before. They replaced the slide motor assembly and covered the parts under warranty. They charged us $930 for labor. 9 months later, the door is starting to making a small grinding noise again. We can hardly wait!
It seems there are already enough of us who have experience the same/similar problem to warrant a class action suite.
#647 of 776 Re: Door issue - I need a Reality Check - 'Controller' ? [mtorg]
Mar 15, 2012 (4:44 pm)
Mtorg- I posted quite a bit about this. The "crunching noise" is likely because the cable is rusted out. This is how ours started. Eventually, it sheered off and then you couldn't open or close the door. There is also a problem with the motor. I actually think there is a technical service bulletin out now. Check out one of the TSB sites. They won't actually "recall" these things but I got mine fixed under the platinum warranty.
#648 of 776 Another sad 2005 Sienna door story
Mar 16, 2012 (9:32 pm)
We have a 2005 Sienna that first had the cable on the passenger side sliding door break but we just used it as a manual door. However, just a few weeks later my wife went to open the door and it would not open at all! I have spent many hours working on it, but to no avail. I even took the interier door panal off, which is very hard with the door shut, but all I could determine is that the latch on the front of the door, on the post that the front door latches to, simply will not release. It has been five months now that we have had to function with only one sliding door working. A Toyota dealership said it would be several hundred dollars just to "try" and figure out why it isn't working. I am so frustrated and disappointed with Toyota.
#649 of 776 2009 van with broken cable
Mar 26, 2012 (9:49 am)
At only 3 years old and 47K miles the cable snapped on one of our power sliding doors yesterday and could have injured someone the way the door slammed shut! I called Toyota customer service and there is no technical bulletin or recall. I filled a complaint with the NTSB. Now I just have to bring it to the dealer for the bad news. It seems like it will be a very expensive repair. It's outrageous to know that this has been going on since the introduction of this generation of vans and Toyota has not done anything to correct the problem.
#651 of 776 Toyota sliding door problems
Mar 28, 2012 (5:00 pm)
I have had problems with my 2006 Toyota Sienna power sliding doors and I see by the number of posts, so have many others. Here's what I found that may help some of you. First, you need to understand how the thing works: There are TWO small plastic coated cables, one to pull the door open and one to pull it shut. The pull-open cable attaches in the slot just under the vent window and the pull-shut one is attached on the same level in the hinge area. Both have two screws holding them onto the body. The system can be completely disabled by disconnecting BOTH of these clamps. The failure happens when the plastic coating starts to come loose and then it fouls the system of pullies and finally either breaks the pullies of the cable. If you start having problems with the door binding, you can save the cables by disconnecting them and this will allow the door to open and close as a manual one. At this point, I would suggest having someone with a lot of mechanical ability to try and save the cables It involves completely removing the sliding door , disassembling it, which includes removing the window, then removing the cable motor and pullies, then removing all the plastic coating pieces from the pullies and what is remaining on the cables. I did mine and it took several hours of work. I now understand why the labor cost is so high. Finally, if you disconnect both of the cables as I mentioned before and the door still "drags", you may also have a sticky roller on one of the three hinge/supports. If so, carefully remove one at a time and lube them up. Be sure to support the door as you do. Good luck!