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Toyota Sienna Sliding Door Problems

326 messages, Last post on Nov 26, 2009 at 9:46 AM
You are in the Toyota Sienna Forum. Your Host is Karens
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My previous link was broken and I can't seem to post a direct link. Try this: http://polifrogblog.blogspot.com/ and scroll down to the Sep. 4 entry. Or cut and paste the link below to your address bar without the quotes. "http://polifrogblog.blogspot.com/2009/09/i-fixed-power-door.html" |
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Replying to: znet (Jan 22, 2008 9:25 pm) I suspect the problem is that sometimes the sliding doors don't go all the way back and lock / engage. When I disable the automatic doors and manually slide the doors back, they sometimes "click" into place. Other times they seem to just hit some barrier and stop (and can slide forward without engaging the handle). With the automatic doors enabled, it seems the motor is still trying to completely slide the door back even though it stopped prior to clicking into place. Anyone else have similar issues? |
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Replying to: fix_it_again (May 12, 2009 9:42 pm) |
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Office of Defects Investigation: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm |
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Replying to: familymandan (Aug 18, 2009 6:14 am) Any solution? Would definitely like to try a "shadetree" mechanic approach if it is just swapping out a couple of actuators. Part #'s and any tips would be greatly appreciated. Andy
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My 04 Sienna's passenger side door is stuck wide open with a forcast of 1' of rain tonight! The cable is frayed and I took it off auto and it still won't close. I read where some folks cut the cable and used it as a manuel door. A year ago our auto lock stopped working on the driver's side sliding door. The dealer wanted $600 to fix it so it has stayed a manuel lock. I was shocked to see so many folks are having these problems I will be calling NHTSA. Does anyone know if a recall is in the works? Hoping it does not rain......... |
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| I cut the passenger side sliding door cable. Now I have a mauel door that works and I still have $1200 in my pocket. | |
My 2004 Sienna power sliding door cable snapped today. Its a good thing I came here and read all these post with the same problems for I will and cannot afford to pay $1500-$2000 to fix it. I did however read that you can cut the cable and use it as a manually door. So I cut the rest of the cable on one end that was snapped. And then cut the other end which was holding the door back from opening all the way. And there is a manual overide button underneath to the left of the steering wheel. And now the door operates like a manual door. No expensive fix, just have to take the hit on resale value when I eventually resell it. Although I don't think that will cost me $2000. The wire was pretty strong though my little wire cutters did not cut it, needed my big cable cutters. I too will send a complaint to NHST, for there is to many cable/door problems I have read here and it should be recalled for safety reasons. I will think twice next time I buy a van/truck that has a electric door opener for eventually that wire will break and most often it will be a expensive fix.
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Replying to: sienna_andy (Oct 02, 2009 8:19 am) Comparing my working door to my non-working door, it was easy to see that there was a small motor that was not activating. Normally, it activates when any button is pushed and even when the interior and exterior handles are pulled. (When the handles are pulled it's actually redundant, because the handles also manually release the latches.) I found an interior door diagram over at tundrasolutions.com and identified the part by name as the "Door Lock Release Motor Assembly". Toyota sold me the part for $103.09, which seemed better than scouring the junkyards for me. The Toyota part number is 85620-08061. It's basically just below the window motor, and it's pretty obvious from the cables that it actuates the door latches. Before ordering the part, I unplugged the motor and stuck my multimeter into the feed to make sure it was getting power. Sure enough it was getting juice, but was dead as a doornail. Got the part plugged it (just while holding it) to test if the new motor would solve the problem, and was pleased to see that it was a clean fix. The last step, obviously was getting it installed. It's a bit of a pain to replace because the motor screws into the sliding door atachment control panel from the back side. The only way to remove that panel is to disconnect the window. This made me slightly nervous, but it really wasn't that bad. Working slowly and carefully to pay attention to how all the trim goes back it probably took a little under 2 hours to replace the motor. All is working great now.
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Replying to: sienna_andy (Oct 17, 2009 8:23 am) |
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