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You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe
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Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet Tahoe Limited/Z71, SUV
#75 of 372 AC / Heat Noises 2002 Chevy Tahoe
Jun 25, 2008 (3:24 am)
I have a 2002 Chevy Tahoe that when you put the ac or the heat on and step on the gas you hear this really lound like clicking noise. You let off the gas and the truck idle and there is no noise. The air comes out cold as ice and the heat works great as well. I had a mechanic look at it and he suggested changing the tensioner and the belt or it might be the compressor. I changed the tensioner and belt and the problem still remains. Does it sound like the compressor? Has anyone else had this same problem? Mechanic stated it will cost $500.00 to replace? Does this sound correct?
#76 of 372 Re: AC / Heat Noises 2002 Chevy Tahoe [natale]
Jun 27, 2008 (6:53 pm)
I have a 2002 Suburban and I have the same exact problem and i have done the same things so far as replacing the tensioner and the belt, and it is still doing the same thing, I want to know how long i can drive and how far I can drive my suburban like this.
#77 of 372 Re: AC / Heat Noises 2002 Chevy Tahoe [krmarshall05]
Jun 29, 2008 (4:38 am)
When i took it in to the dealer tha ti bought it from for this problem (Not a chevy dealer) they said it would not hurt the vehicle. I am ultimately going to bring it into chevy to have them take a look at it and diagnose it. I dont honestly think it is the compressor because they said it is gumming up because of the freon. So my answer then is ok, then what about when i turn on the heat? Their is no freon being used when you run the heat. They also told me they received a memo from GM on this problem. I just hope it is not going to cost $500.00 or more to replace. This is the first problem i have had with this vehicle in the three years i have owned it. On top of the cost of gas now unfortunately i have to worry about this. I have found tha twhen driving after you get going you can turn the air on and the truck will not make the nosie, unfortunately after you stop for a light or to turn you need to shut off the air so that when you step on the gas the truck will not make the noise. Let me know if you find out any additional info and i will do the same.
#78 of 372 Re: AC / Heat Noises 2002 Chevy Tahoe [natale]
Jul 12, 2008 (6:47 am)
the problem could be the radiator fan clutch. while driving there is enough air blowing across a/c condenser and radiator. when you stop if the fan clutch is defective, there is not sufficent air flowing to cool freon in condenser coil.
#79 of 372 Re: AC / Heat Noises 2002 Chevy Tahoe [natale]
Jul 12, 2008 (8:55 am)
I understand that you have found out that the noise comes from the AC compressor? So, if you turn the whole heating / cooling system OFF you do not hear it? In some cars, like in my '04 Tahoe, AC compressor runs almost always regardless if you are heating or cooling. Even in heating mode some systems use AC compressor to dry the air so your windows do not fog over. That is why compressor typically runs if you select the wind shield operation.
If the noise really comes from the compressor, like I believe it does based on what you say, there is one very simple and inexpensive thing to do to see if it helps. Go to any auto part store and buy a can of oil charge for the AC system. Your car is 6 years old and possibly has never had this done.
Just like in any oil lubricated system the oil loses its lubricating properties over time and this can lead to wear and ultimately burning of your AC compressor.
To charge your AC system requires a charging hose, which should not cost more than $10. Anyway, the can of oil charge and the hose will cost less than $20. If you don't have a handy man at home to do the job I would think someone at parts store might do the job for you but you will need to buy the can and the hose.
The job is very easy and you probably can do it yourself too. You first make sure the needle valve on the charging hose is turned all the way open. This ensures the needle on the valve does not pierce the can when you screw the can in the valve.
Then you unscrew the plastic cap from the low pressure service port in the cars AC system. This is the port right close the AC dryer canister (aluminum bottle at passenger side on fire wall). This line is also the one that is cool to touch (when AC system is running). When feeling the line do it next to the service port because the same line is HOT if you touch it on high pressure side of the expansion valve. In my car the expansion valve is just about 10 inches before the service port in this same line so the same line has hot and cold parts to it.
You will connect the charging hose to the low pressure service port (the fitting on the hose will not fit in the other ports if you have purchased correct charging hose) while the engine is running on idle with AC on max cooling.
Then holding the can upside down you will turn the needle valve on the charging hose to full closed. This will pierce the can. After this you open the valve holding it upside down and the ac system will suck the contents in the system. You will need to shake the can before you do all this and they instruct to shake it while it is flowing in too. It only takes about 30 seconds for the oil charge to flow in the system.
If oil charge gets rid of the noise you should be fine as you say the air coming out of the vents is ice cold.
If oil charge does not help at all you might have a bearing problem with the compressor.
Bearing problem can be such that when you accelerate the extra force from acceleration can cause the bearing to make noise but when you drive constant speed or do just moderate acceleration during driving noise is not generated as acceleration force is not big enough to cause problem.
If it is bearing issue you could try lubricating the bearing but it is very difficult to do and probably requires removal of the clutch and pulley that turns the compressor.
$500 is not bad for AC compressor change as just the part for my car costs almost that. I guess the mechanic was talking about the cost for the compressor, not it installed. For the job you need to re-charge the system and to do that correctly the system must be vacuumed first after compressor change. And if you are to have compressor changed you probably want to replace expansion valve and the AC dryer canister too. At least that is what I would do if I had to replace my compressor.
With all this work and parts you might be looking a bill around $800 instead of $500 so please do yourself a favor. Try the oil charge first as if the compressor is just running little dry it might save you that $800!
#80 of 372 Rear Air Doens't work on '02 Tahoe
Jul 13, 2008 (8:55 am)
The rear air doesn't work on my '02 tahoe. I checked the fuses in the box but couldn't find any that where blown, any ideas?
#81 of 372 Re: 2002 chevy tahoe rear air not working?? [dwalton1]
Jul 13, 2008 (10:35 am)
I have the same problem, did you ever find out how to fix it?
#82 of 372 Re: AC / Heat Noises 2002 Chevy Tahoe [arrie]
Jul 14, 2008 (3:15 am)
Good Morning! Thanks for getting back to me. Yes when i shut everything down, Heat/Ac and drive the truck it runs normally, no sound no nothing. I am going to try and charge the system as you suggested. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the detailed instructions it was very helpful. I hope this works. I would really have to go through changing the compressor and having to spend $800.00.
#83 of 372 Re: AC / Heat Noises 2002 Chevy Tahoe [natale]
Jul 14, 2008 (7:46 am)
please post back wether it helps or not. This way it helps others in this forum too.
#84 of 372 Re: AC / Heat Noises 2002 Chevy Tahoe [krmarshall05]
Jul 21, 2008 (6:52 am)
I have the same issue, just started on my 2002 Suburban 2500. The lower AC belt broke and the shop replaced it. Immediately, we started hearing a rattling noise from the AC when we stepped on the gas. Brought it back, said the tensioner was broken. They agreed to replace it because this was the 3rd time we'd had to come back in for stupid issues. They replaced the tensioner and I went out, started the truck, turned on the AC and hit the gas and the noise started up again. Two guys from the shop were right there. They checked and they said the tensioner broke.
I looked up the service bulletins on this truck and 01139B is the exact issue. Doing some more research, I found that it's a down problem where slugs of liquid refrigerant are being pushed into the compressor. They clog a tube which then blows the tensioner. Ugh.
I'm pissed because the AC kicks just fine. It's cold and the fan works. It's just noisy as all getout and sounds like the belt is going to go flying. This wasn't happening prior to them replacing the belt or the tensioner. I'm wondering if they could have reinstalled something wrong and caused the problem.
The shop quoted me $1300 to replace the compressor, tube, tensioner, etc. I just don't want to put that money into this truck right now. I'm having a hard time believing that this is the issue, if it was, it would have done this before the new belt. Right?