Last post on Nov 18, 2013 at 7:10 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe
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Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet Tahoe Limited/Z71, SUV
#352 of 372 AC and overall issues
Sep 04, 2012 (8:06 pm)
I Have had to have my rear AC fixed. can't recall the issue. I have now had all of my door locks replaced. Thank God for the extended warranty that something told me to buy when I purchased my 2008 Tahoe. I have neVER had the need for an extended warranty before. Our 2000 GMC Sierra takes a licking and keeps on ticking, but I don;t think I will purchase a CHEVY product any time soon. I will be trading in my Tahoe before the extended warranty expires. It is a shame, because it rides nice when running properly. The dealership (Freeway Chevy) knows me by name, which is sad. The dealership is great, but the product is not. My husband told me that his company, a long time chevy buyer, is now going to purchase Ford work trucks because the chevy trucks they have are experiencing some type of wiring problems on the new trucks. This is a shame because they purchase many trucks every year. This is a shame. We were going to cosign for our daughter to purchase a malibu, but due to the poor quality of chevy lately, we are now looking at Honda and Nissan products. We have always been firm believers in buying American, but not when you are losing this kind of money.
#353 of 372 high pitch noise though sterio linked to RPMs
Oct 07, 2012 (12:46 pm)
I have a 2003 Subruban, at times I am earing a high pitch noise through the radio speakers. The pitch goes up and down and follows the RPMs as the motor shifts up and down. Does anyone know what the possible cause might be. Thought it was the altinator, switched it out and it is still doing it. Any help or guidance would be greatly appriciated. Thanks
#354 of 372 2001 Suburban LS AC blows full cold or full hot
Oct 20, 2012 (7:21 am)
WHen temp setting is all the way to Cold, AC works as expected. When I bump the temperature setting on the dash one notch towards WARM, it goes to full heater. No gradations. I suspect blender door actuator. Does anyone know where it is (I think there are more than 1?) Is it easily accessable or does dash have to come off?
#355 of 372 2005 SUBURBAN AC/HEATER ISSUES
Nov 15, 2012 (9:20 am)
I have a 2005 suburban loaded and my heater and air will not blow out until my RPM's go up like on the interstate and at that point it blows out hot or cold air but my rear vents work fine...the thermostat for that is at a different place. What could be causing this?
#356 of 372 Re: 2005 SUBURBAN AC/HEATER ISSUES [aswann75]
Nov 15, 2012 (12:12 pm)
We understand if you're looking for some do-it-yourself advice as the vehicle is outside of any applicable warranties by time, if not also by mileage. If you did decide to work with a dealership on this and wanted for us to work with you through that process, please email us at socialmediagm.com (include your name and contact information, a summary of the situation, and the last 8 digits of your VIN).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
#357 of 372 2005 Suburban Heater Issues response
Nov 17, 2012 (7:39 pm)
I had the same exact problem and I fixed mine myself and saved me $100's of dollars!!!! Here's what I did......I went to YouTube and searched for the exact issue and I found this AWESOME video and website called Sparky.com he shows you how to troubleshoot the blower motor resistor. I followed exact instructions, went to the part store puchased the blower motor resistor and replaced it with NO problems. This happens when your blower motor resistor gets wet from A/C or rain via a clogged drain tube.
Here's the video to watch. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0mDPW9P5VU
#358 of 372 2004 Tahoe Ac problem
Apr 18, 2013 (10:37 am)
first of all I changed the instrument cluster and heater control already. first problem is ac/heat only comes out of the defrost. then the next is, when you hit the snowflake to turn ac on it goes hot but when you turn ac off it blows ice cold. can anyone tell me how to fix it?
#359 of 372 AC hard to start at 110F+ ambient temp.
Jul 03, 2013 (2:39 pm)
I have a 2012 2500 Suburban that has a problem getting the compressor to start after a hot soak. This only happens during the hottest part of the summer here in Arizona and has done it since new. The dealer has not been able do duplicate the problem, I showed them a video of the malfunction during it's current visit there. With the ambient temp of 110F+, during a restart after a hot soak period, the compressor does not want to come on. During the non-op, the system insists on outside air. The compressor light will light for a moment than turn off. Push for recirculate, the light will lite for a moment and then shut off, then the compressor light will shut off and stay off. This argument will continue for 2-15 minutes before the system decides it wants to come on. After it does decide to come on, the system will revert back to outside air when it starts to cool down in the cab and I will have to push the button to get it to go back to recirculate. If it makes any difference in diag, the engine is the 6.0, it has the trailer package and it is a 4 X 4. Also, when it is this hot, the engine will get hot during longer idle times (15-20 minutes). The truck does not have a pusher fan in front of the condensor. The temp gauge will go to the 3/4 mark past 210F, the fan clutch does engage the fan. Fast idle at about 1200 RPM will get it to come down. I work out in the heat, my wife dosen't. Thank you for your help.
#360 of 372 Re: AC hard to start at 110F+ ambient temp. [runamuck7]
Jul 03, 2013 (6:09 pm)
I am thinking that due to the high temps your system could be in a very high pressure state in the refrigerant which would cause the system to shut down.
Here's the info for a 2008 Suburban 2500 - that's the latest I have. I don't know if yours works the same way but I would expect it's at least similar. It explains how the A/C system works - hope this helps:
The A/C system used on this vehicle is a non cycling system. Non cycling A/C systems use a high pressure switch to protect the A/C system from excessive pressure. The high pressure switch will OPEN the electrical signal, to the compressor clutch, in the event that the refrigerant pressure becomes excessive. After the high and low side of the A/C system pressure equalize, the high pressure switch will CLOSE. Closing the high pressure switch will complete the electrical circuit to the compressor clutch. The A/C system is also mechanically protected with the use of a high pressure relief valve. If the high pressure switch were to fail or if the refrigerant system becomes restricted and refrigerant pressure continued to rise, the high pressure relief will pop open and release refrigerant from the system.
Let us know what you find out.
#361 of 372 a/c blowing cold until idling
Aug 07, 2013 (12:18 pm)
I just had my compressor replaced and my air is blowing cold while I moving but when I'm at a stand still, it blows warm. HELP!!