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Restoration Advice

252 messages,  Last post on Mar 28, 2013 at 10:52 AM

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What is this discussion about? Performance Mods, Auto Body, Auto Repair, Classic Cars, Coupe, Convertible, Truck, Sedan, Wagon

Messages Page 23 of 26

#220 of 252 Re: A few more questions... [Mr_Shiftright] by andre1969

May 31, 2009 (6:49 pm)

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 30, 2009 6:12 pm)
I think those engines are kinda dogs, aren't they?
 
I've heard that they're not as powerful as you might think something like that would be. Looking online, I've seen 0-60 times from 8.2 to 8.8 seconds, and I found a quarter mile time of 16.5 seconds 83 mph.
 
It had 345 hp, which also doesn't sound like a lot to me, for something that's supposed to be a high performance engine. However, a lot of the "real" high-performance engines back then, like the 426 Hemi, and probably the 425 hp version of the Chevy 409 and 396, were a pain in the butt to live with on a daily basis unless you were living life a quarter mile at a time. Great for racing and showing off and getting tickets, but they'd go out of tune in a heartbeat, run hot, tended not to be happy with creature comforts like air conditioning, power steering, etc, and were geared so short they sounded like they were screaming even at idle.
 
I think the 7-litre was supposed to be a more "civilized" attempt at a full-sized performance car. A car that was still a pretty good performer, but something you could still be comfortable driving to work and running errands, day in and day out.
 
My friend's other old car is a 1959 Dodge Coronet 2-door hardtop, with the D500 package. 383 with dual quads and 345 hp. He blew the engine on that one, too.

#221 of 252 German Ford Taunus 17M by d4smf

Mar 06, 2010 (6:23 pm)

Hi,
 
I would like to ask you for your help. Does someone of you know anything about restoration of German Ford Taunus 17M? How much will it cost (approximately), and where i can find spare parts for this car in this area (Balkan Peninsula- Europe)? I have no experience in restoration, so any advice will be welcomed .
 
Thanks!

#222 of 252 Re: German Ford Taunus 17M [d4smf] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Mar 07, 2010 (8:32 am)

Replying to: d4smf (Mar 06, 2010 6:23 pm)
My rule of them is that you always start searching for parts in the country of origin. These sources might include car clubs for that marque, of course wrecking yards, Internet (eBay, local bulletin boards) and print publications dedicated to old cars.

#223 of 252 Re: German Ford Taunus 17M [d4smf] by fintail

Mar 08, 2010 (1:41 pm)

Replying to: d4smf (Mar 06, 2010 6:23 pm)
You're not terribly far from Germany...you should take a long holiday and go on a buying trip. Those cars are a lot less uncommon in the home country.
 
Restoration costs are difficult to determine, dependent upon the condition of the car and the demands of the car. On most normal cars a full restoration will far exceed the value of the car, so a simple "driver quality" refurbishment is the best idea, and even that won't exactly be cheap.

#224 of 252 Re: German Ford Taunus 17M [fintail] by hpmctorque

Mar 08, 2010 (8:32 pm)

Replying to: fintail (Mar 08, 2010 1:41 pm)
Your second paragraph hits the bulls eye. Restorations can almost never be justified from an economic standpoint. Repairs to keep an old vehicle in service are easier to justify. The economic arguments for spending more on repairs than the market value of the vehicle include...
 
   First, if you don't put on many miles -- say no more than 5,000 miles per year, for sake of argument -- then the annual depreciation on a new car could exceed the amortization cost of repairs.
 
   Second, The expenses associated with replacing certain items that wear out regardless of whether the car is old or new, such as tires, batteries, brakes, etc., should be backed out of the cost of restoring old cars. The same applies to maintenance expenses.
 
All the other arguments for restoring old cars, or doing repairs exceeding the market value of the vehicle, are emotional.

#225 of 252 Re: German Ford Taunus 17M [hpmctorque] by fintail

Mar 08, 2010 (9:58 pm)

Replying to: hpmctorque (Mar 08, 2010 8:32 pm)
Making a car a nice driver is the way to go, unless it is something super desirable where a profit can be made. That way you don't (usually) get in too deep, and you can actually enjoy driving it. A little patina is more interesting to me than having everything fresh, too.

#226 of 252 Re: German Ford Taunus 17M [fintail] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Mar 09, 2010 (8:07 am)

Replying to: fintail (Mar 08, 2010 9:58 pm)
Most folks will buy a car in need of some restoration because they cannot afford, or are reluctant to spend, the necessary amount to buy that same car ALREADY restored----even when, financially speaking, it would be for more advantageous to buy the restored (or even just "clean") example.
 
This is certainly okay, especially if you enjoy tinkering, but there are certain cases when you really need to slap yourself and not do it.
 
One circumstance is what I call "the blind canyon". This comes from flying in Alaska, where a small plane enters an unknown mountain pass or canyon, unaware that the canyon will rise, and will narrow, faster than the plane can either climb or turn.
 
In other words, you are doomed the moment you enter.
 
If you buy say a 70s or 80s 4-door car for instance, that needs lots of work, you are doomed to failure. You will never get even a substantial portion of your money back.
 
Me, personally? I will take on a "break-even" or even small loss restoration project, but I will not tolerate loss of thousands and thousands of dollars.

#227 of 252 A Real Life Example by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Mar 09, 2010 (8:22 am)

A friend of mine wanted to restore a British motorcycle and was kind enough to consider my advice of some value at least.
 
His first choice was a non-running 70s Triumph with some missing parts and shabby paint and rusted chrome. I voted NO because of a) the asking price of $2500, b) the ultimate value of this bike and c) too many unknowns regarding prior history of the bike.
 
His second choice (or third) was a 70s Norton for $1500 that was non-running, covered outside for 3 years, dirty, some rust, very original looking, being sold by the original owner. I voted YES. Turns out that did work out, since the engine did run well. True, he had to clean out the gas tank, clean up the rust, buy a few parts, buy tires, rebuilt the carbs, buy a battery. But still, he's got a $4000 bike to sell now.
 
His third choice was a 60s BSA for $4000 that needed almost a full restoration but had a good history. I also agreed YES because this particular model is quite valuable, perhaps $20,000 when done. So there is room for success here. Turns out this engine was soon after purchase, partly disassembled and proved to be in good condition.

#228 of 252 Re: A Real Life Example [Mr_Shiftright] by fintail

Mar 09, 2010 (9:17 am)

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Mar 09, 2010 8:22 am)
I bet bikes are easier to deal with and not lose your shirt, due to cheaper purchase price and less things to replace or restore. Although I am sure prewar models could break the bank.
 
I can't imagine trying to restore a car for profit, I just don't have that kind of luck. I'd restore something to keep forever, where a loss wasn't part of the equation...and even then, I would have feel comfortable spending such money, which I don't. Until then, my old car will remain unrestored. It is in "good enough" condition to drive around and have fun with, and I don't have to worry about $5K paint jobs.

#229 of 252 Re: A Real Life Example [fintail] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Mar 09, 2010 (10:58 am)

Replying to: fintail (Mar 09, 2010 9:17 am)
Well you don't have to restore them, you can just clean them up, enjoy them and then resell them when you're done. You can often do a lot with "dead" paint, small chips and scratches, rusted tire rims, scratched trim, faded black trim pieces, dirty engine, etc.
 
As for mechanics, most older cars are pretty simple as long as you don't get into things like convertible tops and heater cores, or pulling huge V-8 engines out. Many older engines can be worked on in place.
 
So you have to "pick your shots" carefully and not take on cars that have difficult problems.
 
Things like rust, blown engines**, busted glass all the way round, completely destroyed leather interiors, or very bad collision damage are all no-brainers---STAY AWAY
 
** exception to blown engine might be if the car carries a commonly available crate engine.

Messages Page 23 of 26

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