- #141 of 220
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Re: dashboard..can i get an original? [manny73661]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
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Jun 03, 2008 (5:13 pm)
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Replying to: manny73661 (Jun 03, 2008 4:21 pm)
Wrecking yard is about it, or buy a donor car, they should be pretty cheap.
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- #142 of 220
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Re: help!!! where do i start? [Mr_Shiftright]
by debose
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Jun 04, 2008 (7:58 am)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 03, 2008 5:12 pm)
thers not to much rust just surface rust that i knocked off with a wire brush.my plan is to have it as a second car and weekend driver. do you think i can do it fo about ten thousand? i put pics up at http://www.carspace.com/debose check them out see what you think.im going to check out www.hemmings.com right know
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- #143 of 220
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Re: help!!! where do i start? [debose]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
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Jun 04, 2008 (9:05 am)
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Replying to: debose (Jun 04, 2008 7:58 am)
It's gonna bit tight. Depends on what quality you desire. The rust looks like wet floor mats or gasket leaks into the car (which you should find and fix) but I'd look real close at the rust by the driver's left foot, to make sure it is not intruding into the A pillar (windshield/dash support) as it mates to the floor. That would be nasty if it's weak in there---*very* nasty.
Mechanical parts are very straightforward. You big expense is going to be bodywork and paint. If you have to farm all that out, I don't think you'll meet your $10K budget, as this is so labor intensive. But if you can do a lot of it yourself, you might be able to build a decent driver.
Yeah you can wire brush the rust but then you'll have to treat it chemically to stop it from re-occuring. Aside from paint and bodywork, the interior can get expensive, as can machine work. Brakes and suspension shouldn't be too bad, but here again you're going to have to decide how much you plan to clean up the underside of this car. That's a nasty job.
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- #144 of 220
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Re: help!!! where do i start? [debose]
by euphonium
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Jun 04, 2008 (2:41 pm)
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Replying to: debose (Jun 03, 2008 3:36 pm)
It is highly recommended you begin with adhering to the Data Plate using it , not as a guide, but as strict restoration facts. In other words, honor the originalness of the vehicle. The more the restoration matches the Data Plate, the more valuable it is down the road. Decode your Data Plate and proceed from that.
The Style Steel wheels are worth quite a bit these days, they are an example of what to restore and keep factory stock.
Also, it is recommended you join Mustang Club of America. They publish a monthly magazine, but not as extensive as "Mustang Monthly". Take your time, be authentic, & patient. Good Luck 
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- #145 of 220
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Re: 1968 mustang restoration [Mr_Shiftright]
by british_rover
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Jun 05, 2008 (10:20 am)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 03, 2008 8:46 am)
The first motorcycle I bought in high school had a locked up motor and I went through that whole procedure but could never get the pistons free. I ended up buying a used motor from a wrecked bike and swapping it in.
I have to assume that since my motorcycle had an aluminum block with steel sleeves and aluminum forged pistons that the pistons were essentially welded to the bores by corrosion.
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- #146 of 220
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Re: 1968 mustang restoration [british_rover]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
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Jun 05, 2008 (12:49 pm)
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Replying to: british_rover (Jun 05, 2008 10:20 am)
That can happen. Sometimes you can soak them for days and days and then attach compressed air and that jogs it loose.
There are tricky ways to get stuck cylinder heads loose, but a stuck engine can be very troublesome.
Of course, just before you buy the new engine you can always roll the bike down the hill and pop the clutch, but usually that'll just put you over the handlebars or if you are REAL lucky, break all the piston rings.
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- #147 of 220
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53 chevy bel air starting
by chase14l
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Jul 06, 2008 (1:50 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 05, 2008 12:49 pm)
i have a 53 chevy bel air with the stock 235 staright 6.it hasnt been started in around 14 years. i am wondering if something might break if i try to start it?
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- #148 of 220
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Temperature Gauge Problem
by did001
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Jul 13, 2008 (6:51 am)
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Replying to: chase14l (Jul 06, 2008 1:50 pm)
I am restoring a 1958 Jeep Willis P/U. I put in a new temperature gauge and a new sensor. When I turn on the ignition the gauge slowly moves to the hot position within 30 seconds. If I remove the wire from the sending unit it moves back to the cold position. If I ground the wire to the motor the gauge moves to the hot position. As a result of this test I took back the sending unit and exchanged it for a new one. It does the same thing. Any ideas as to what is wrong and how to fix it?
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- #149 of 220
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Re: 53 chevy bel air starting [chase14l]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
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Jul 13, 2008 (4:00 pm)
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Replying to: chase14l (Jul 06, 2008 1:50 pm)
There are a few things to watch out for. One, remove the spark plugs, add some oil and let it sit overnight. Then turn the engine by hand. This might prevent a rusted oil ring from breaking and also is a good way to see if water seeped into the cylinders from a leaky headgasket. Barring either of these calamaties, once the engine spins by hand, you can put in new plugs, points, condenser and plug wires and try to fire it up. Of course, you'll have to drain the gas tank and add fresh gas before you try to start the car.
Don't try to jump start a 14 year old battery. Buy a new one.
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- #150 of 220
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Re: Temperature Gauge Problem [did001]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
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Jul 13, 2008 (4:02 pm)
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Replying to: did001 (Jul 13, 2008 6:51 am)
I'd say you have the wrong sensor.
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