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Restoration Advice

220 messages,  Last post on May 31, 2009 at 5:49 PM

You are in the Classic Cars Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

What is this discussion about? Performance Mods, Auto Body, Auto Repair, Classic Cars, Coupe, Convertible, Truck, Sedan, Wagon


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#136 of 220
1968 mustang restoration by debose
Jun 03, 2008 (6:45 am)
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i rebuilt my engine about 6 years ago and put less than 5000 miles on it, but its just been sitting for five of those six years in my back yard.now i got a little time and money do i need to rebuild the motor again?
#137 of 220
Re: 1968 mustang restoration [debose] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jun 03, 2008 (8:46 am)
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Replying to: debose (Jun 03, 2008 6:45 am)

Not necessarily. It depends to some extent how it was stored, etc. Best thing would be to take out the spark plugs and squirt a light oil in each oil (automatic transmission fluid would be fine), about 3-4 teaspoons of oil in each hole, screw in the plugs by hand, let it sit overnight. Then next day try to turn the engine by hand using the belts and fan or a socket on the crank bolt. If the engine won't turn, the piston rings have rusted to the cylinder walls and you are screwed for the time being.
 
If the engine does turn okay, then get a battery and some fresh spark plugs. Remove the old plugs and spin the engine over until the oil you put in has cleared out. Then put in new spark plugs, then STOP.
 
Now, drain your gas tank, put in a new fuel filter, squirt a little starter ether in the carb, and hold on to your hat as you crank it over. MAKE SURE there is someone with you to work the ignition key while YOU watch the engine for leaks, fire, whatever. Have a fire extinguisher handy.
 
If the engine is jammed tight, you still might be able to save it by adding MORE oil and letting it sit longer, or, worst case, pulling off the cylinder heads and rapping on the pistons with a wooden stake; however there is a chance that you will break the piston rings and you know what that means.
 
Even if the engine frees up, the rust might have damaged the cylinder walls.
 
If the engine runs okay, let it warm up for 15 minutes, then drain the old oil and add new oil and filter and that part is done. Now you have to do tires, brakes, coolant, trans fluid, etc.
 
Big job here but if the car is a nice one, it's worth doing.
#138 of 220
help!!! where do i start? by debose
Jun 03, 2008 (3:36 pm)
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i have a 1968 mustang im trying to restore where do i start?
#139 of 220
dashboard..can i get an original? by manny73661
Jun 03, 2008 (4:21 pm)
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restoration on my car,,a 78 culass supreme,is there anyway i can get a original dashboard? if so, from where,,i want a original is this possible?
#140 of 220
Re: help!!! where do i start? [debose] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jun 03, 2008 (5:12 pm)
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Replying to: debose (Jun 03, 2008 3:36 pm)

I'd get a copy of Hemmings Motor News, and then order up all the free Mustang parts catalogues you can find.
 
I think Hemmings has some good archive articles on how to plan a restoration on their website at www.hemmings.com. What are your goals for this car?
 
You need a plan, a budget, and you need to line up your suppliers. '68 Mustang should be pretty "easy" as long as you are starting off with a decent car but if you have lots of rust, think twice.
#141 of 220
Re: dashboard..can i get an original? [manny73661] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jun 03, 2008 (5:13 pm)
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Replying to: manny73661 (Jun 03, 2008 4:21 pm)

Wrecking yard is about it, or buy a donor car, they should be pretty cheap.
#142 of 220
Re: help!!! where do i start? [Mr_Shiftright] by debose
Jun 04, 2008 (7:58 am)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 03, 2008 5:12 pm)

thers not to much rust just surface rust that i knocked off with a wire brush.my plan is to have it as a second car and weekend driver. do you think i can do it fo about ten thousand? i put pics up at http://www.carspace.com/debose check them out see what you think.im going to check out www.hemmings.com right know
#143 of 220
Re: help!!! where do i start? [debose] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jun 04, 2008 (9:05 am)
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Replying to: debose (Jun 04, 2008 7:58 am)

It's gonna bit tight. Depends on what quality you desire. The rust looks like wet floor mats or gasket leaks into the car (which you should find and fix) but I'd look real close at the rust by the driver's left foot, to make sure it is not intruding into the A pillar (windshield/dash support) as it mates to the floor. That would be nasty if it's weak in there---*very* nasty.
 
Mechanical parts are very straightforward. You big expense is going to be bodywork and paint. If you have to farm all that out, I don't think you'll meet your $10K budget, as this is so labor intensive. But if you can do a lot of it yourself, you might be able to build a decent driver.
 
Yeah you can wire brush the rust but then you'll have to treat it chemically to stop it from re-occuring. Aside from paint and bodywork, the interior can get expensive, as can machine work. Brakes and suspension shouldn't be too bad, but here again you're going to have to decide how much you plan to clean up the underside of this car. That's a nasty job.
#144 of 220
Re: help!!! where do i start? [debose] by euphonium
Jun 04, 2008 (2:41 pm)
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Replying to: debose (Jun 03, 2008 3:36 pm)

It is highly recommended you begin with adhering to the Data Plate using it , not as a guide, but as strict restoration facts. In other words, honor the originalness of the vehicle. The more the restoration matches the Data Plate, the more valuable it is down the road. Decode your Data Plate and proceed from that.
 
  The Style Steel wheels are worth quite a bit these days, they are an example of what to restore and keep factory stock.
 
 Also, it is recommended you join Mustang Club of America. They publish a monthly magazine, but not as extensive as "Mustang Monthly". Take your time, be authentic, & patient. Good Luck
#145 of 220
Re: 1968 mustang restoration [Mr_Shiftright] by british_rover
Jun 05, 2008 (10:20 am)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 03, 2008 8:46 am)

The first motorcycle I bought in high school had a locked up motor and I went through that whole procedure but could never get the pistons free. I ended up buying a used motor from a wrecked bike and swapping it in.
 
I have to assume that since my motorcycle had an aluminum block with steel sleeves and aluminum forged pistons that the pistons were essentially welded to the bores by corrosion.

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