Last post on Feb 02, 2013 at 4:55 PM
You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma
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Chevrolet S-10, GMC S-15, GMC Sonoma, Electrical, Truck
#94 of 437 GMC Sonoma electrical problem
Sep 07, 2007 (12:22 pm)
I have a 1994 gmc sonoma. One day I had a problem with the dash lights there were none, turn on the dome light the floor lights come on. No tail lights. Start the truck turn off dome light it stays on. I pulled it into my garage to check the electrical problems. Fuses are good. No crossed wires or fraied ones. Needless can't find the problem. So I go to mare the truck out and it will not turn over. It is not spraying. Fuel pump does run. Can anyone help?
#95 of 437 03 S-10 Ext. Cab Electrical SNAFU
Sep 12, 2007 (5:25 pm)
ok. so my truck is an 2003 S-10 with 65k on it. about two weeks ago, it started making this really high pitched buzz from the center console behind the dash and then the RPMs dropped WAY down when it idles. to the point it stalled when i took my foot off the gas (it's an automatic, and therefore not supposed to stall.). i had a mechanic friend look at it, it has a battery, the alternator is good, but we couldn't get it to start. i had it towed and my shop couldn't replicate the problem, i took it home. i just took it out tonight and it started fine but all the warning lights on the dashboard lit up for a second, then went out. then went on. then went out. it said my parking brake was on, it wasn't, and it said my seat belt wasn't on, it was. it didn't stall, it idled fine, and then the whole thing shut off, and the clock on the radio reset itself. the dome lights still work, the radio works, but it wouldn't start at all. i waited about two minutes and it started fine and i was able to make it home.
can anyone tell me what the heck is going on? they plugged it in and couldn't get any codes, and all the fuses are apparently ok.
i'm a fairly small woman and i have to drive through some fairly rough neighborhoods on my way to campus, and i really don't want to get stranded, especially since i have no idea what the problem is. HELP!!
#96 of 437 Re: digital dash cluster is out in my 92 s-10 [wearthy]
Sep 14, 2007 (5:14 pm)
no i was still trying but i gave up and bought another truck and am using that one for parts but i dont think it was the display itself i tested all the plugs for power and had none. and couldnt find out why.
#97 of 437 Re: 2001 Sonoma Brake Lights [dangles]
Oct 01, 2007 (7:18 pm)
There should be a switch on the brake pedal somewhere locate it and replace it it's probably bad or needs adjustment..
#98 of 437 97 s-10 turnsignal hazard switch
Oct 01, 2007 (7:06 pm)
I was installing a cd player in my 97 s10 and when i pulled the dash apart i broke the hazard light switch off. Now when i put the brakes on both the signal lights come on, so i got a buddy that works at a junkyard to find me one , but the only one he could find with no cruise control was out of a 98 s10 . Will this one work in my 97 s10?
#99 of 437 need some help!!
Nov 12, 2007 (5:17 pm)
I HAVE A 92 CHEVY S10 SONOMA. I THINK I HAVE A SORT OR A BAD GROUND BUT DON'T KNOW WHERE TO GO FROM THERE. THE LEFT BLINKER WORKS ONLY. WHEN YOU TURN ON HEAD LIGHTS THE BLINKERS DON'T WORK AT ALL, AND THE BRAKE LIGHTS STAY ON ALL THE TIME. AT TIMES EVEN WHEN YOU TURN THE BLINKER ON THE WIPERS START UP. AND ONE OTHER PROBLEM ON MY HEATER YOU CAN'T AJUST THE BLOWER SETTING. YOU EVEN HAVE TO POP THE HOOD TAP THE RELAY JUST TO GET IT TO WORK THE LITTLE IT DOES.
#100 of 437 Re: need some help!! [knoxy2007]
Nov 13, 2007 (7:30 am)
Replying to: awade (Jul 18, 2007 7:49 pm)
99 out of 100, it's always a bad ground when things look alien.
Ground will seek out anything to make a circuit, as in making false lights light up, dimming of others and so forth.
Check ground connection at radiator core support from battery terminal.
Also add a ground from battery to other body panels, fender, back to the engine anywhere. Use #10 gauge wire.
Replace poor looking battery cables.
Sand clean the body ground connection and use a good grease before mounting it.
Clean and wire brush cables and battery terminals so the shine, apply grease on connections and clamp tight as possible so that if you grab cable it cannot move or twist at the battery connection.
#101 of 437 Re: 96' S10 Headlight short [rostant]
Nov 13, 2007 (1:09 pm)
Hey i have the exact same truck with the exact same problem any idea of what it is have you got it fixed yet? i was thinking it was the head light switch but i dont know just a guess. Please respond asap.
#102 of 437 Re: need some help!! [philscbx]
Nov 13, 2007 (1:14 pm)
Is This article for the 96 Headlight problem. My headlights go on and off when i drive. where do i look for the ground wire. can you be really specific on how i can find it.
#103 of 437 Re: need some help!! [dan120]
Nov 14, 2007 (6:02 am)
Take the Battery Out.
While your messing around, put battery on charger, so it's at max output when your ready.
Use jumper cables from battery back to vehicle to make tests as you progress as battery is charging.
With the Battery OUT of vehicle.You can see where the cables go.
Make necessary repairs to battery tray if in rough shape.
You also may have inherited someone else's nonsense.
I've seen some pretty Ugly results of what some people do,
Look at the ends of cable very closely.
REPLACE them if they look shabby at all.
In other words, IF they don't look like new at both ends. Ditch them.
IF the cables are long enough, CUT off the Garbage, and remake new ends on them. SOLDER the new ends on if possible.
If you see corrosion going deep down into cable ends for several inches, then toss them.
Brand New Vehicles Came with dual lead ground cables for 20 years.
LOOK at where this smaller CABLE branching off from Battery ground is attached to. This is usually the Radiator CORE SUPPORT. If it's been replaced correctly.
IF NOT_ THen ADD a ground wire of #10 Gauge Wire [MINIMUM] to the GROUND at Battery to the CORE SUPPORT.
The alternate to using #10 wire is it's about 1/8" thick copper core.
Use wire with larger copper diameter, not smaller.
In a desperate pinch, one could use the stiff house wire for a temporary fix, but it's too stiff, and road shock will break it.
Fasten an EYE on both ends of #10 new wire, and use the correct size for the battery bolt.
Using a #10 self tapping hex head sheet metal screw mounted in cordless drill with hex head driver that fits screw, drive it into the back side of CORE SUPPORT.. This is the frame work holding the headlights and radiator.
Use a washer under bolt to the connector. Apply grease to connector before attaching to CORE support
The reason I mentioned in last post to make more than one ground wire of #10 wire attached to battery IS,
to provide a solid ground from one panel to the next.
Other points as well to include are the Engine Block, Firewall, etc.
MOTOR mounts can be a huge issue of blocking a good ground back to the body and frame.
You can also continue a second ground from CORE Support back to the engine. This un-clutters battery connector.
Usually the best spot on the engine is the alternator bracket, or something similar.
Make sure the movement of engine does not wear on the wire, or too short.
Now near the back of the engine, make one going to the fire wall.
NOW, your fully grounded up front.
If the vehicle is rusty in general, then you may have to run a separate ground all the way back to the tail lights for example.
One wire looping from light to light, like you would do if it was a Utility Trailer.
Examine the headlights ground wire to make sure it has a good path.
This wire from plug on back of bulbs could also need to be remade.
I usually just purchase new head light plug pig tails. Cheap Part.
This step can also help boost the alternators output as well.
Use wire ties to keep things neat and prevent unnecessary damage from sharp edges.
Murphy's Law will be right at your heels, so you will have to out smart him at every step.
Might be over kill and winded for some, but some will only have to do it once.
Later, Good Luck