- #72 of 212
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Re: GMC Sonoma, electrical shutdown [jfogelberg]
by blazer74
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Jun 29, 2007 (3:53 pm)
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Replying to: jfogelberg (Jun 06, 2007 6:53 pm)
HEY I WAS JUST WOUNDERING IF YOU FOUND OUT THE PROBLEM WITH YOUR SONOMA BECAUSE MY 1998 S-10 DOES THE SAME THING AND IVE BEEN TRYING TO FIGURE IT OUT FOR AT LEAST A YEAR NOW. IVE TOOK IT TO THE DEALER THEY COULDNT FIND A PROBLEM BECAUSE IT WOULNT DO IT TO THEM, IVE EVEN TAKEN IT TO ANOTHER SHOP AND IT WOULDNT DIE ON THEM EATHIER AND EVEN THOUGH THE VOLT METER WOULD DROP THEY SAID THE VOLTAGE WAS STILL GOOD. MINE WILL DO IT OFF AND ON IT WILL BE FINE FOR A COUPLE OF MONTHS THEN THE NEXT COUPLE IT STARTS ITS CRAP AGAIN. I HATE IT SO IF YOU FOUND OUT ANYTHING LET ME KNOW
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- #73 of 212
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Re: GMC Sonoma, electrical shutdown [jfogelberg]
by mh60guru
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Jul 07, 2007 (1:04 pm)
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Replying to: jfogelberg (Jun 06, 2007 6:53 pm)
I signed up for this website because of your post. I have a 98 S-10 2.2L with the identical problem. I've replaced the alternator, which seemed to work for a month or two because my volt meter held steady at 14 amps. But the problem is back with my meter usually reading about 13. Then occasionally it will begin to drop and even twitch when a turn signal is on, just like yours. Once it gets down to about 10-11 my electrical goes hay-wire and the truck dies out. My truck is a manual so I can put it in neutral, and restart it as I'm coasting down the road...and it will run fine. This may happen a few times in a day and then no problems for weeks!
Everybody I've talked to has of course told me that there's a short or loose ground somewhere. I've cleaned every connection and ground that I can get to. The only thing I haven't been able to really check is the starter because you have to remove the exhaust pipe to get to it on the 2.2L and those bolts are not coming off for me in my driveway. Have you had any luck figuring out your problem? Thanks.
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- #74 of 212
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Re: GMC Sonoma, electrical shutdown [mh60guru]
by gonogo
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Jul 08, 2007 (8:47 am)
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Replying to: mh60guru (Jul 07, 2007 1:04 pm)
I have a 99 2.2 Sonoma and I can drop the starter with out removing the down pipe.
Can't remember the exact procedure but it was easy. I think both support braces and the cross bracket.
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- #75 of 212
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Larry71
by larry71
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Jul 19, 2007 (9:00 am)
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Yesterday while backing out of driveway my AC/Fans quite working. In addition the radio/clock stopped. Clock/radio came back. Then fuel gauge/temp gauge went out. Back on this morning. yesterday the wipers/wash would not work. Still don't. Lights for what gear you are in are out. Come on briefly on start. Wipers/wash out. If radio is on and I swith on AC to see if it works radio goes out. What is going on?
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- #76 of 212
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Re: GMC Sonoma, electrical shutdown [jfogelberg]
by oldtimer7
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Aug 08, 2007 (1:58 am)
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Replying to: jfogelberg (Jun 06, 2007 6:53 pm)
My 98 S-10 (2.2L w/135K miles) also has a wandering dash voltmeter. I have cleaned, inspected, and replaced every ground connection, both visible and hidden. New battery, starter, and alternator haven't made any difference. The problem is unpredictable, has once put the battery light on, and even caused stalling under load. I have just purchased a $600 scanning tool and discovered that no codes are stored. The voltage data taken, while parked and driven, is what the ECM sees. The dash voltmeter is showing the actual reading, going into the computer, regardless of the battery terminal voltage. I am reading, at the ECM, 13.5V to 14.2V under normal conditions, then the slow decline begins and can drop to 11.9V. Then , without warning, go back up to the 13V+ range. My next step is to install a new ignition switch which I've just received. It is a scary looking 22 inch mass of 13 wires and four connectors. I'm still looking for a decent reference for installing it. Also, I just ordered, from the dealer, a full set of pos. and neg. battery cables for $216, including the 175 amp fuse for the cable junction block under the battery tray. Oh, and I have a good SW ammeter going into the circuit to compare to the voltage readings. I will report on the results after all the new stuff is installed. I'm convinced that this is an age/resistance/temperature problem that is affecting the charging system. Voltage doesn't just change unless current and/or resistance changes, too (Ohm's Law). I think we're all chasing symptoms, when the problem is an inadequate primary system that overwhelms the alternator and battery. I'm thinking a FOR SALE sign might be added to my list.
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- #77 of 212
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Re: GMC Sonoma, electrical shutdown [oldtimer7]
by gonogo
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Aug 09, 2007 (9:16 am)
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Replying to: oldtimer7 (Aug 08, 2007 1:58 am)
Your on the right track with the ignition switch, common problem on high time trucks. $216 for battery cables, oh my gosh, I would have bought aftermarket.
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- #78 of 212
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Re: digital dash cluster is out in my 92 s-10 [greasymonkey3]
by wearthy
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Aug 09, 2007 (9:42 pm)
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Replying to: greasymonkey3 (Apr 23, 2007 5:15 pm)
I have the same problem I have 3 diffrent dashed and none of them work they could all be junk but i dont know have you salved your problem yet?
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- #79 of 212
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Re: Security system [dtimothy]
by wearthy
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Aug 09, 2007 (10:26 pm)
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Replying to: dtimothy (Jan 17, 2007 8:27 pm)
It is the chip on your key go get a new key made
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- #80 of 212
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Re: GMC Sonoma, electrical shutdown [oldtimer7]
by mh60guru
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Aug 10, 2007 (2:28 pm)
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Replying to: oldtimer7 (Aug 08, 2007 1:58 am)
Thanks for the info Oldtimer7. My next step is also to replace all of my battery cables. But I'd like to wait until you post your results since they are $216 per set! And just as an update, my truck died on me three times on the way home from work to day. It's an ill feeling just watching the volt meter drop and knowing that it's going to die in a matter of seconds. If I don't figure something out soon, I may just skip the FOR SALE sign and go directly to pushing it off the nearest cliff! If so many people have had this problem, why hasn't Chevrolet addressed this!
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- #81 of 212
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Re: GMC Sonoma, electrical shutdown [mh60guru]
by oldtimer7
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Aug 10, 2007 (11:23 pm)
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Replying to: mh60guru (Aug 10, 2007 2:28 pm)
This is a quick update while I'm waiting for one more cable to arrive at the dealer. These cables don't look like anything you've handled before. Complicated! The ground has three connections (chassis, body, and engine); the positive from the battery goes to the starter (one cable), to the junction block under the battery tray with a 175 amp fuse (second cable), from the second post on the junction block to the alternator with a fuse link (third cable), and a separate fourth cable from the first post on the junction block to the other side of the engine compartment where the first of two fuse panels exists on the fender apron. Aftermarket won't go near these!
I had a long talk with the regional electrical guru from GM who visits all the local dealers to solve whatever the regular techs have given up on. Here are some highlights of our discussion . . . .
1. There is NO single item that shows up in these complaints that prompts the techs to head for a common culprit.
2. My developing conclusion that it is a charging problem is correct. The voltage regulator is confused!
3. The entire primary system is too long, has too many connections, and deteriorates in various parts of cables and connection to contribute to an increasing resistance that taxes the limits of the alternator.
4. The fluctuations in the dash voltmeter are exactly what the computer is "seeing".
5. Measuring the voltage at the battery doesn't tell you enough.
6. The battery must be checked for specific gravity by cell, and load tested to verify if it is healthy enough to be eliminated, or is a suffering contributor to the overall problem. Remember, it becomes a victim of poor charging.
7. The fluctuations in the voltmeter are showing the actual response of the voltage regulator to the system demands.
8. The alternator is not strong enough for the applications.
9. The regulator (inside the alternator) is controlled by the PCM which is not always calling for the correct response from the alternator. Because the system combines so many loops, the power budget is often confused as to the correct voltage/amperage.
10. ANY deterioration in the system of circuits (large or small) contribute to misleading readings within the system monitored by the computer.
11. The battery cables, all grounds, and connections must be in primo condition. Since current is flowing in so many directions, any marginal conductivity is curtains.
12. Be careful to avoid questionable aftermarket components since the items may not be close enough to OE specs to really repair the problem.
13. Sometimes the dealer has the only quality Delphi part that you want to invest in.
14. This whole issue is a prime example of what we have to look forward to when ever increasingly complex vehicle systems get old. This is the classic example of the engineers not being there to see what they've created many years down the road. Remember, we do the real testing, and this one is failing. For us to eliminate all of these electrical headaches, we have to keep the systems and circuits as close to "new" as possible.
When I receive the rest of my stuff from the dealer, install it, and test it, I'm going to make my results known. I do still intend to change the ignition switch which might require pulling the steering wheel (air bag!). Still referencing this one (?).
I used to be a repeat Ford truck owner, right now I doubt the I'm going to dwell in the GM camp much longer. I'm tired of consoling my friends who drive Dodges . . . . . what do I turn to (Japanese?)?
If you have any questions, please ask me.
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