Last post on Jul 20, 2013 at 5:40 PM
You are in the Lexus ES
What is this discussion about?
Lexus ES 330, Lexus ES 350, Lexus ES 300, Engine, Sedan
#57 of 66 Re: Engine Hesitation [snowz]
Feb 02, 2010 (10:04 am)
It would be unusual, extremely so, for your engine to first warm to operational temperature and then have the thermostat remain fully open enough for the engine to noticeable cool. Your guages are driven by the engine/transaxle ECU via D/A converters. Replace the ECU, keep the car.
#58 of 66 Re: Engine Hesitation [snowz]
Feb 03, 2010 (11:31 am)
Well, mine is a 96 with 100,000 miles on it and no signs of quitting since I rebuilt the engine, so I'd keep it too.
#59 of 66 CEL/TRAC OFF
Jun 16, 2010 (12:26 pm)
The CEL/TRAC OFF lights came on while I was driving on the interstate. I disconnected the battery for a few hours hoping to clear the lights. No such luck.
I took the car to Advanced Auto. He used the OBD II and the code was P1135. I was told that I needed to replace the MAF Sensor. I did that and the lights are still on and the OBD II came back with the same code. Any ideas?
#60 of 66 Re: CEL/TRAC OFF [dbinal]
Jun 20, 2010 (10:00 am)
Your MAF is giving a BAD reading due to something ELSE being wrong.
Leaking injector maybe.
#61 of 66 Cold Engine Tapping Noise
Nov 23, 2011 (8:33 am)
I have a 2007 ES350 with 30K on it. From when I bought it used about two years ago I noticed an engine tapping noise when starting the engine cold. After driving a short distance this noise goes away and car drives fine.
The Lexus maintenance people at the dealership I purchased this car from acknowledged that they too hear the noise but claim it is either piston slap or fuel injectors, both of which are normal for the car and are not harmful.
Does anyone have any insights on this situation?
#62 of 66 Re: Cold Engine Tapping Noise [viznes]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Nov 23, 2011 (8:42 am)
Well piston slap is quite a different noise than injector noise, so those are two pretty wild guesses. Both can be "normal"--some engine designs are prone to piston slap (such as Subaru) but I never heard of a Lexus being particularly prone to it. Injector noise is more like a buzz.
Are you using full synthetic oil? If not, switch to that and let us know if that cures the problem. You might need just a bit quicker oil pressure in the upper cylinder and valve area.
#63 of 66 Re: Cold Engine Tapping Noise [viznes]
Nov 28, 2011 (10:59 am)
I had an ES with that engine. Mine did the same thing. I used Synthetic oil. Still did it. Didn't sound like injectors to me, or as bad as piston slap. It would go away in a minute or two though, and run fine after that. Seemed to only be a cold engine problem. I didn't worry about it, and it never became an issue. That's all I can tell ya.....
#64 of 66 Re: Cold Engine Tapping Noise [viznes]
Dec 16, 2011 (5:32 am)
My 2008 ES350 with 41K miles on it also makes a clicking-type noise when cold. As other posters have mentioned, it goes away quickly. There are threads/posts on other Lexus forums about this noise and the concensus seems to be that it is the injectors.
I've only had one car with piston slap, and it was MUCH louder than this clicking, and only audible at idle--once off idle, the noise vanished. However, my clicking noise continues at any rpm until the engine warms up.
I've chosen to not worry about it.
#65 of 66 Re: Cold Engine Tapping Noise [rcummelin]
Dec 20, 2011 (11:31 am)
Wise choice. I know of no engine failures on these cars because of clicking.
#66 of 66 96 ES300 engine cut out at floor board/passing, no code in computer
Jul 20, 2013 (5:40 pm)
I just purchased a 96 ES300 98K from original owner, garaged never smoked in near new condition. It has 98K original, & tuned up with new belt water pump at 94K.
MY PROBLEM when floor boarded whether in P or N, or on the road attempting to jack rabbit onto a freeway, or use passing gear going uphill at 65 the engine cuts out. I lighten up on the gas pedal & it is again as new. But it is dangerous, I had to slam on the brakes & get behind a big rig I was passing when sudden oncoming traffic appeared. I kicked it into passing (floored it) it cut out & I braked hard to get behind the big rig. Again, from a stop sign I saw a line of a bunch of cars coming & stepped on it hard in plenty of time (normally) to get into traffic & accelerate to speed, again it cut out. So, I tried it in Neutral & sure enough, floor it it cuts out.
No code with 2 different orbit II readers, none. Mechanic thought perhaps an RPM block but no way, it is too dangerous. I can think of 3 & with stretch 4 possibilities??? Getting too much fuel when floored, not enough fuel when floored, tiny possibility of fuel filter, & most likely - but no code - some sensor. I would VERY much like a suggestion as this is one sweet ride except when needing quick speed. I am 65 & not a hot rodder, but all drivers on occasion need rapid acceleration. This is my first time to the forum & am not sure I will see answer unless emailed directly doberdawgcomcast.net thanxxxxxxx