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Pickups Dodge Ram Dodge Ram Transmission Problems
1284 messages, Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 10:52 PM
You are in the Dodge Ram Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Replying to: dustyk (Sep 01, 2007 9:35 pm) |
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I have a 1997 Ram 1500 that starts and drives fine but after 10 minutes goes to neutral. If I stop the car shut it of and restart I can drive a few miles. The in goes to neutral again. I stop and restart again and all is fine again. I drove 30 miles today and just made it home. Any Ideas. I just bought it a week ago.
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Replying to: tubugs (Sep 04, 2007 6:21 pm) How many miles? What is the transmission maintenance and service history? Regards, Dusty
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so heres the deal, and i'm hoping someone out there has a real simple fix. i have a 01 ram 2500 diesel with 140,000 on it. and probly with in the past week it has not wanted to shift from first to second gear unless i really rev the engine. then it shifts fine for the rest. once warmed up it refuses to shift down to first at all when copletely stoped unless i manually put it there. its a 47re trans i believe. and keep in mind that i've never had to change or add any fluid to it. i've checked it everytime i changed the oil and it was always full and nice and clean. also, just for the heck of it i did change the fluid and filter and still its no better. any ideas would be greatly appreciated. oh, and just so you know, i'm no tranny guy, so when it comes to line pressures and that kinda stuff, i have no clue.
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Replying to: rickthehick (Sep 05, 2007 3:14 pm) Regards, Dusty |
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Replying to: dustyk (Sep 05, 2007 2:32 pm)
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Replying to: tubugs (Sep 05, 2007 6:11 pm) *Low fluid level *Partially clogged transmission filter. *Partially clogged or defective Drain Back Valve (check cooling lines for sludge build up). * Gear shift cable loose, binding or misadjusted (check operation in first gear selection. If no problem this is a likely cause). *Burnt or badly worn rear clutch. *Valve body malfunction: sticking valves, worn bores, excessively dirty. Bad electrical connections to Shift Solenoids. *Worn or damaged Input Shaft Seal Rings *Broken Overrunning Clutch. *Broken Front Planetary Gearset Best regards, Dusty
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Replying to: dustyk (Sep 06, 2007 4:36 am) Where is the brain back valve. It does have a cooler in front of the radiator. Thanks for the help. I know Ford transmission but do not know anything on the Dodge's Shane |
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| My transmission shifts without any problem when cold and when it's cool outside. However, after driving for 15 minutes in hot temperatures, it seems to have trouble shifting from 3rd to 4th. I sometimes actually have to let off of the throttle to get it to shift. On cooler days, I've driven for an hour without any problem. It seems to be temperature related. Any ideas? | |
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The specs 85,000ish miles 5.9L 4 Speed Auto 4x4 The problem Transmission will not shift out of 1st. MIL Code 37 comes up and the Transmission Shop is saying a P 0740 code is the only fault code present. Both codes lead to torque converter not locking. The history Truck has lived it’s last four years as the third vehicle and only gets about 3K per year (I love the MPG on the motorcycle). Transmission has been service twice in its life and was nearing (or past) service #3. In the past year or so (probably longer) I notice the hose leading to the trans cooler was seeping. My just “watch the fluid level” approach did allow the fluid level to get low a few times but was topped off at the first sign of slipping. Recently the truck saw a bit more action and was called up for towing duty. Towed a car on a u-Haul trailer about 100 miles. About half way home I noticed the O/D automatically cut off (I understand it does this when the temp gets high). Slowed down for the rest of the trip with no hard accelerations. O/D came back on about 15 miles later. No more problems until I reached my destination and dropped car off. When leaving to return the trailer I noticed the tans slipping a bit. Took it easy and dropped off the trailer. When leaving u-haul, trans was slipping bad and anything over 25 mph was impossible. Milked it the 2 miles home. Checked fluid level and it was OK but smelled slightly burnt. Seeing if $20 and an hours time could fix it I dropped the pan and changed the filter. Slight build up of sludge on the bottom of the pan and the fluid had suspended brass particles. Put everything back together and topped off the fluid. Trans is not slipping any longer but it won’t shift out of 1st. The fix? Based on the lack of fault codes that make sense, the shop recommends a rebuild in the range of $1,400 to $2,500. Before I give the go ahead I’m doing my due diligence to make sure it’s not a simple problem and the shop is just not trying to rip me off. Is the trans toast or are there any simple items to check before a full rebuild is authorized. Thanks |
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