Last post on Jul 01, 2011 at 4:46 AM
You are in the Hyundai Azera
What is this discussion about?
Hyundai Azera, Auto Body, Auto Repair, Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust, Fuel System, Heating / Cooling, Interior, Lighting, Oil, Paint, Scheduled Maintenance, Steering, Suspension, Tires, Transmission, Sedan
#446 of 465 Re: Recurring Dead Battery [garysteinweg]
Mar 02, 2011 (5:03 pm)
Here's a TSB reference on this forum I posted three years ago, with a nod to popeye4 who was likely the first on on any forum to come up with a fix:
AZERA (ALL) & VERACRUZ (ALL)
INCREASED CURRENT DRAW ON AZERA AND
VERACRUZ VEHICLES WITH HOOD OPEN
This bulletin is provided for informational purposes on normal vehicle operation.
Opening the hood on Azera and Veracruz vehicles will ground the security systemís hood input switch. Grounding the hood input switch places the security system module (incorporated into the BCM) into a readiness standby mode.
While in standby mode, the BCM consumes an increased amount of current that may discharge the vehicle battery if the hood is left open for several hours or overnight.
Displaying or Storing the Vehicle
To avoid discharging the battery while displaying the vehicle on a showroom floor (hood open), a self-regulating automatic trickle charge may be connected to the vehicle battery. If the vehicle is to be left parked with the hood open and accessory power is not required, the Power Connector on the interior fuse panel should be removed.
#447 of 465 Re: Recurring Dead Battery [oskidunker1]
Mar 02, 2011 (9:51 pm)
I don't know if locking or leaving unlocked makes any difference. If something's not secured, and you try to arm the alarm, it's my understanding that this is what drains the battery.
#448 of 465 Re: Starting A Long-Sitting Car Every Couple Weeks [jamazera]
Mar 02, 2011 (10:01 pm)
The temperature gauge is not a true indicator of the oil temperature. Several non-controlled "experiments" that I've heard of indicates that it takes about 30 minutes for the oil temperature to reach steady-state operating temperature. The coolant temperature, OTOH, will usually come up to operating temp within 5-10 minutes depending on the ambient temperature. It's only after the oil temp reaches full operating temperature that moisture will start to boil off.
#449 of 465 Re: Starting A Long-Sitting Car Every Couple Weeks [garysteinweg]
Mar 03, 2011 (5:42 am)
what do you consider "stesdy state operating temp" for motor oil?? Engines don't survive will over 250* F....oil is cooked and the affected bearings are "coked over" and fail... with coolant temps near 200* and exhaust manifold temps 700* or hotter, it appears that a lot of that heat will be transferred to the oil.....a main function of motor oil is cooling the parts that it is lubercating Where did you find the non-controlled and probably unscientific experiments that you mentioned.???.....The AIP website will help you with oil facts....
#450 of 465 Coupons for maintenance received from Local dealer
May 14, 2011 (7:14 am)
Just go a page of them. One for a front or rear brake job including turning the rotors for $239.00.This seems like a deal and I do need Brakes. I wonder if they target people they know need a particular service?
Anyway with my audi A6 the cost would have been more than double this and they would have insisted on replacing the rotors.Have 50k on the car.
#451 of 465 60,000 mile Maaintence
May 14, 2011 (8:15 am)
As I'm approaching the 60M mark on my 2007 Azera, decided to do some price checking for the severe servce maintenance schedule cost. Dealer where I bought car (AKA rip-off center) wanted $1,000. Second dealer in area quoted $500, and local BP car care center quoted $298, all for the same service. Moral to the story--shop around.
#452 of 465 Re: Coupons for maintenance received from Local dealer [oskidunker1]
May 16, 2011 (12:43 pm)
Yeah...$200+ is the reason why I started replacing my own brake pads. In most cases, getting the rotors turned is a scam. They charge you for an hour's labor even though it takes them a few seconds to put the rotor on the machine and turn it on...the machine does all the work. The only time you really need to have them turned is if you feel any vibration when you apply the brakes (which indicates warped rotors). I've had my Azera for 5 years with 108k miles on it and have yet to turn the rotors. Pad replacement is quite simple on these cars and I use ceramic pads by Akebono and haven't been happier.
In regards to Audi...I found a great spot that replaced my wife's front rotors & pads (ceramic) for about $350. Audi wanted that price to just replace the rear pads with semi-metallic pads (no rotors).
#453 of 465 Azera Oil Changes
Jun 08, 2011 (7:49 am)
The manual for my 2009 Azera GLS (3.3 liter) calls for 10W-30 every 7,000 miles but for severe conditions (which is not my driving) the oil should be 5W-20 every 3,000 miles. That makes sense to me.
What puzzles me is that the dealer uses the 5W-20 without asking about my driving and I instruct him to use the 10W-30. I'm assuming he's just 'enhancing the revenue' of the service department.
However, despite the manual, the oil filler cap on my engine says: "See Owner's Manual", "SAE 5W-20 GF3". Does anyone know how this contradiction in instructions has been settled?
#454 of 465 Re: Azera Oil Changes [yaqui1]
Jun 08, 2011 (7:56 am)
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm...curious. I use 5W-30 (Castrol Edge) and i change my oil every 7500 miles.
#455 of 465 Re: 60,000 mile Maaintence [jkoleh]
Jun 08, 2011 (12:54 pm)
The reason it's $1000.00 is because they are doing things not required in the manual. Like replacing the spark plugs. These cars require so little service that the dealers are always trying to add things to make money.When I ge there i will give them a list from the manual and ask for a quote.Then again, maybe I should just go to the gas station across from my office.