Last post on Jul 01, 2011 at 4:46 AM
You are in the Hyundai Azera
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Hyundai Azera, Auto Body, Auto Repair, Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust, Fuel System, Heating / Cooling, Interior, Lighting, Oil, Paint, Scheduled Maintenance, Steering, Suspension, Tires, Transmission, Sedan
#438 of 465 Car won't Start AGAIN
Feb 28, 2011 (4:47 pm)
After fighting the insurance company the Dealer convinced them that my "short" was a damaged wiring harness in the door which was hit in an accident a year ago.So they charged the insurance company $1400.00. I go away for 4 days and come back and the car won't even turn over. Hyundai road service says sorry you have used you yearly alotment of "Two" jumps. So after calling customer relations they come out and get me going . car now at the dealer. Also the radio is now totally dead.
A month ago I installed the top of the line insterstate battery.
2007 Azera with 49k.
If I am now told it is a short in the radio, I am going to demand they replace it or I will call the insurance company and tell them to ask for their money back.Why the hell is the radio only covered for 36 months?
#439 of 465 Re: Car won't Start AGAIN [oskidunker1]
Mar 01, 2011 (5:55 am)
radio, a/c, battery and some other items are 3/36...check your owner's manual
#440 of 465 Re: Car won't Start AGAIN [jamazera]
Mar 02, 2011 (9:02 am)
Bad fuse casued radio to not work. Thats the good news. They are unable to find the short and claim there is no drain on the battery but want to keep the car for several days to confirm.
Did we decide it is better to lock the doors and activate the alarm when you are going to be gone for a week? Will this cause less drain?
My guess is when the Hyundai road side service came and jumped my battery it probably blew the fuse.
#441 of 465 Recurring Dead Battery
Mar 02, 2011 (9:53 am)
On another Azera forum, moderated by Gamel-Ged, I found the answer to any number of variants of this problem. First my history. Left car at dealer a couple years ago for the dash board replacement, and the battery was dead when I went to pick it up. Quick charge and test showed the battery to be good, and dealer had no idea why battery was dead. I assumed it was due to the trunk left ajar as I frequently got that notice in the dash display. A year later, the same thing happened in my driveway.
Gamel-Ged sez it's (one of) the security sensors located in the doors, hood, and trunk. If one of those switches isn't fully depressed and you use your fob to lock it, the computer will run the battery down overnight by trying repeatedly to arm the car and failing. The give-away on this is you don't get a chirp when you press the fob's lock button.
Turns out these switches can often be insufficiently depressed due to an incompletely closed door/hoot/trunk or a deformed or missing rubber "depressor" that fails to comletely close the switch. That explained a LOT of what I've been observing (trunk open light on the dash that goes out on its own) every now and then.
I'd refer you all to that forum, but my computer crapped out yesterday and this is a new laptop with no internet links yet installed in favorites.
Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo
#442 of 465 Starting A Long-Sitting Car Every Couple Weeks
Mar 02, 2011 (10:01 am)
I noticed in passing that there are several people who drive their car infrequently, but start it up every couple weeks and let it run for 10-20 minutes to charge the battery and drive off any moisture that might accumulate in the oil due to the start.
First off (particularly in a cold climate), your oil will not warm up enough in 20 minutes of idling to drive off moisture. It needs at least half an hour of operation under load to do this. Frequent starts like this are more harmful than useful. Get a battery tender if the car's going to sit for several months at a time.
I can't remember now what was Second off.
Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo
#443 of 465 Re: Recurring Dead Battery [garysteinweg]
Mar 02, 2011 (11:47 am)
What if you have your car in your garage and don't lock and go away for a week? Better to lock?
#444 of 465 Re: Starting A Long-Sitting Car Every Couple Weeks [garysteinweg]
Mar 02, 2011 (12:30 pm)
once the temp gauge shows proper operating temp it shoud be ok??? operating temp does more than just drive off moisture...also "cooks" contaminates than accumulate in the oil from driving the car....I'm in FL, so operating temp occurs quickly....
I keep a battery tender on mine...20 minutes will hardly charge a battery,,,in the old days, it took about 7 miles of driving to recharge just the juice that was used to start the car..don't know about todays situations
#445 of 465 Re: Recurring Dead Battery [oskidunker1]
Mar 02, 2011 (12:35 pm)
I think to "lock and load" would be best...min voltage/amp draw by the armed system as opposed to open switches trying to close or arm..
#446 of 465 Re: Recurring Dead Battery [garysteinweg]
Mar 02, 2011 (5:03 pm)
Here's a TSB reference on this forum I posted three years ago, with a nod to popeye4 who was likely the first on on any forum to come up with a fix:
AZERA (ALL) & VERACRUZ (ALL)
INCREASED CURRENT DRAW ON AZERA AND
VERACRUZ VEHICLES WITH HOOD OPEN
This bulletin is provided for informational purposes on normal vehicle operation.
Opening the hood on Azera and Veracruz vehicles will ground the security systemís hood input switch. Grounding the hood input switch places the security system module (incorporated into the BCM) into a readiness standby mode.
While in standby mode, the BCM consumes an increased amount of current that may discharge the vehicle battery if the hood is left open for several hours or overnight.
Displaying or Storing the Vehicle
To avoid discharging the battery while displaying the vehicle on a showroom floor (hood open), a self-regulating automatic trickle charge may be connected to the vehicle battery. If the vehicle is to be left parked with the hood open and accessory power is not required, the Power Connector on the interior fuse panel should be removed.
#447 of 465 Re: Recurring Dead Battery [oskidunker1]
Mar 02, 2011 (9:51 pm)
I don't know if locking or leaving unlocked makes any difference. If something's not secured, and you try to arm the alarm, it's my understanding that this is what drains the battery.