Last post on Jul 01, 2011 at 4:46 AM
You are in the Hyundai Azera
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Hyundai Azera, Auto Body, Auto Repair, Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust, Fuel System, Heating / Cooling, Interior, Lighting, Oil, Paint, Scheduled Maintenance, Steering, Suspension, Tires, Transmission, Sedan
#311 of 465 2007 Azera Rear Brakes gone at 21,000 miles
Dec 27, 2009 (10:51 am)
Has anyone else experienced premature wearing of the rear brakes? I have a 2007 Azera Ltd. bought 2 years ago, drive about 10,000 miles/year. I have always gotten long wear on brakes on other cars. Took the Azera in for an oil change last week and had Goodyear check the brakes just for the heck of it, no problems or noises. They said the rear brake pads were corroded and the rotors needed to be machined. They were surprised as there was normal wear on the front brakes, but the rear brakes were shot, very unusual for a front wheel drive vehicle. I took the Azera to the Hyundai dealer thinking this was a warranty problem. They claim it is not, it is a maintenance item. They said because I did not take the car in for its 15,000 mile service, where they inspect and clean the brakes, that dirt built up in the rear brakes (but not the front?), and that caused the problem, so it was my bad, according to Hyundai service. But I have been reading many posts from Santa Fe and Sonata owners that they also have had premature rear brake wear. I have not been able to find any posts about Azera owners having rear brake problems.
By the way, I do not have any problem with the Azera's suspension or noise. It does get terrible gas mileage in the cold Michigan weather, about 19.5 right now.
I am getting ready to contact Hyundai customer service to complain and request a refund of the $307.21 brake replacement costs. I kept the used parts, should I take them to a brake shop and get their opinion?
Love my Azera, very rare to see another on the road. I bought this car for the long haul, but am concerned about what caused this rear brake problem. Also that the rear brakes had to be machined so soon, is that a concern?
#312 of 465 Re: 2007 Azera Rear Brakes gone at 21,000 miles [donazera]
Dec 28, 2009 (5:54 am)
Not sure what the issue could be. I didn't have a problem with premature wearing, but they did seem to wear faster than most rear pads on any other car I've owned in the past. I replaced my first front set around 35k miles and the rears needed to be replaced around 37k miles. Normally, the rear pads seem to last twice as long as the front pads. However...since having changed my pads a few times, it has been consistent for the most part. The only thing I can attribute to this is the ESC system as it employs the rear brakes when it senses the car needs it. It may not be noticeable to us as we drive, but it would explain an increase in the wear of the rear pads.
Wow!!! $307.21 to replace the rear pads!!! I'm so glad I do my own.
#313 of 465 Re: 2007 Azera Rear Brakes gone at 21,000 miles [donazera]
Dec 28, 2009 (5:37 pm)
Check out TSB 08-BR-002. Tells how to correct a squeaking noise from the rear breaks. It seems the pads rub on the caliber making the squeaking noise but also if the pads drag on the caliber they will wear alot quicker. Its a lack of lubrication that causes the problem IMO. As Almet said rear brakes outlast front pads 2-3 to l.
I had your same problem on my Chrysler 300M, when caliber piston retracted the pads didn't and rubbed on the rotor causing rapid wear. Use to feel the caliber every now and then to see if they were getting hot. To bad you paid so much for a simple repair, could of bought two new rotors and pads for that price, the labor is what got you.
#314 of 465 Re: 2007 Azera Rear Brakes gone at 21,000 miles [SilverBullet00]
Dec 29, 2009 (4:58 am)
Thanks for your reply but I never had any noise coming from any of the brakes. If the rear brakes wore out prematurely, could it be that the ABS was engaging the rear brakes too often, and I would not notice that? I mean, would I notice if the ABS was engaging the rear brakes, or would I not notice that happening?
#315 of 465 Window Lock Switch - Supposed To Be Illuminated?
Dec 29, 2009 (6:23 am)
Is the window lock switch on the driver side door supposed to be illuminated when you have the headlights on? It is the only switch on the panel that is not. The owner's manual does not specify and I thought I would check here before going to dealership. Thanks.
Dec 30, 2009 (8:21 am)
MY car has 33,000 and at the last service they said there was 70% left.Do they do the rotors when they replace the brakes?
#317 of 465 Re: RBrakes [oskidunker1]
Dec 30, 2009 (11:46 am)
Hey Oskinunker1...most places will tell you that you need to get your rotors turned when they do a brake job. Personally, I haven't turned my rotors yet and I'm on my 3rd set of pads. Just to put it in perspective...my car is getting ready to turn 80k on the odometer. Usually, rotors only need to be turned when you feel a vibration in the brake pedal meaning the rotors are warped due to hot spots (abusive driving) or from having the lug nuts tightened down too much or unevenly. Funny thing is...if it's part of doing the brakes, why does is it a separate charge and so much more than the actual brake job itself? Just like when you get shocks/struts put in, you have to pay extra for the alignment when they are done. Some things just don't make any sense.
However, back on the topic...I have just put on my 3rd set of pads on the original rotors and have yet to turn them. I have never worn my pads down to the metal, never felt vibration in the brake pedal or anything like that. Only thing I've done is wiped the rotor surfaces down with brake cleaner, spray the pads with brake cleaner and do the install and everything has been fine for almost 80k miles. That's just my experience with the situation.
By the way...may your new year be happy, safe, blessed & prosperous!!!
Dec 30, 2009 (1:30 pm)
Right On (allmet33), I've never heard of anyone who had to have their rear brake rotors turned, almost impossible to overheat the rear rotors under nomal driving conditions. I've cleaned mine with a little metal sand paper and brake cleaner and back on they go. To me its another way for repair shops to make money. Front rotors are usually put on the lathe to clean off the build up pad material that accumulates on the rotor and creates a vibration when applying the brakes. You really have to do some hot stops to warp a rotor. There is alot of good info on the web about brake rotors that would surprise alot people and how shops make extra money on brake jobs. With my 300M, I had a extra set of front rotors that I would have cleaned up and ready for install whenever I did a brake job and my 300M was hard on front pads weather they be ceramic or semi-metalic. IMO the semi-metalic pads were a better pad but they created the black/grey dust on the rims.
#319 of 465 Re: Window Lock Switch - Supposed To Be Illuminated? [bmb1767]
Dec 30, 2009 (7:44 pm)
The window lock switch does NOT illuminate...
#320 of 465 Re: Window Lock Switch - Supposed To Be Illuminated? [gamleged]
Dec 31, 2009 (5:04 am)
Thanks. It does seem weird though for it to be the only one on the whole panel.