Last post on Jul 01, 2011 at 4:46 AM
You are in the Hyundai Azera
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Hyundai Azera, Auto Body, Auto Repair, Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust, Fuel System, Heating / Cooling, Interior, Lighting, Oil, Paint, Scheduled Maintenance, Steering, Suspension, Tires, Transmission, Sedan
#1 of 465 Changing Oil
Aug 26, 2006 (9:30 am)
Since the owners manual doest talk about oil changes, does anybody have details on how the filter drains, where the drain plug is?? I hate to have to buy a service manual just to do minor maintenance.
#2 of 465 Re: Changing Oil [maddawg46]
Aug 26, 2006 (6:08 pm)
I have not changed the break-in oil yet as the Azera only has 1500 miles on the odometer. I understand the panel that fits over the top of the engine, held on by 6 connectors, needs to be removed to access the oil filter. The factory oil filter is a cartridge, and comes with two gaskets. I would guess one is used for the cover of the oil filter housing; the other might (not sure) be used on the drain plug for the engine. (I have a Honda that requires a new washer every change.)
As to the drain plug: I have not looked specifically, I will expect it to be on the back side of the oil pan. Won't know til I get there. Sorry couldn't be more help
#3 of 465 Re: Changing Oil [wamba2000]
Aug 27, 2006 (12:51 pm)
Basically what you said, except the two gaskets which come with the new filter cartridge are nitrile or silicone "o-rings". The larger one seals the cartridge housing lid to the housing. The smaller one goes over a nipple on the replacement cardridge prior to installation to prevent unfiltered oil from "cheating" back into the sump. As far as the drain plug is concerned - S.O.P. (standard operating procedure). The hex-head plug is on the back of the sump bottom extension, centered near its bottom. (Unless Hyundai's uncharacteristically changed the size of the engine oil drain plug, a 17mm wrench should be fine for removal and replacement. In a pinch, you should be able to get away with an 11/16" open end wrench, or 6 pt. socket or closed end wrench without danger of rounding off the head. I wouldn't chance a 12 pt. inch-system wrench, though - that's just begging for a rounded-off drain plug head. It would also be uncharacteristic for Hyundai not to provide explicit instructions and diagrams in their owner's manual detailing the oil change procedure. Check the "D0-IT-YOURSELF MAINTENANCE" section.)
#4 of 465 Re: Changing Oil [ray_h1]
Aug 28, 2006 (8:53 am)
Was at the dealers on Saturday. The service guy told me the filter wrench is a special one that the auto parts stores dont have. Thats a "gottcha"! The wrench is not listed in the parts fish. Any idea where to get one? So has anybody out there changed their own oil yet? This filter wrench seems to be a big issue just to change your own oil.
#5 of 465 Re: Changing Oil [maddawg46]
Aug 28, 2006 (9:04 pm)
You have two options:
1) Gingerly remove the oil filter cap using a LARGE set of ChannelLok pliers along with a rag inserted between its jaws and the cap to prevent marring it. But, you run the risk of rounding off the points on the cap with this kludge.
2) Bite the bullet and buy the genuine, handy-dandy Hyundai oil filter cap wrench, part #: 09263-3C100. (I located the part number in the online Hyundai Azera shop manual's special tool subsection of the "General" section. The accompanying online diagram indicates it slips over the flats of the oil filter cap and has what appears to be a 3/8" square hole to accept a 3/8" drive shank to loosen or tighten.)
#6 of 465 Re: Changing Oil [ray_h1]
Aug 29, 2006 (8:03 am)
Great! Thats what I needed. Now my problem is conveying this with the "Dip" in the parts department. He does not seem to know about "Special Tools". At least the service guys are being helpful at the dealership.
Sep 10, 2006 (4:25 am)
If one reads the newly posted article on AOL they will see the definite advantages in using full synthetic oil. They recommend using 5-30 weight in most conditions, due to the fact that modern engines are built to high and tight specifications which do not require thick oil to fill improperly engineered gaps. The synthetic oil should provide longer service and provide increased gas milage.
#8 of 465 Re: Oil Change [floridabob1]
Sep 10, 2006 (3:56 pm)
AOL, eh? Now there's a paragon for up-to-date technical expertise and information... I don't have any fundemental objections to 5W-20, but I won't use that viscosity range in anything I own, either, given my climate that varies from warm (rarely down to +40 deg. F.) to HOT. Hot climate, high compression engine - not a combination I care to entrust my engine to light viscosity motor oils. I'll leave doing that to others. The move to lighter viscosity range oils in the U.S. is purely EPA driven. Failure to achieve mandated EPA fuel economy targets results in stiff financial penalties against the "errant" automaker. Outside the U.S., automakers, both U.S. and foreign, continue to suggest 5W-30 and 10W-30 - and the precisely machined bearing clearances are identical to those for engines produced for U.S. sale. To those who implicitly trust the U.S. owner's manual's recommendation to use 5W-20, good luck and I hope your long term experiences prove my reservations wrong.
(But, in the meantime, they'll have to tear my 10W-30 motor oil out of my cold, dead fingers... )
#9 of 465 Re: Oil Change [ray_h1]
Sep 11, 2006 (12:02 pm)
Ray, I agree, I have repeatedly questioned dealer "advisors" about the 5W-20 recommendation in the heat of the Arizona deserts. I think they feel better since 5W-20 is less common and justifies them charging more....less chance of going to the auto parts store to buy your own.
That's why I change my own oil in my cars. I can make sure get the Mobil 1 or Syntec that I paid for.
#10 of 465 Re: Changing Oil [ray_h1]
Oct 19, 2006 (11:00 pm)
Band wrench works great. On the Sonotas I have changed i have actually taken the filter off by hand on the first oil changes. (Sonota V6 uses the same filter and setup)
(I run an oil change shop)