Last post on Mar 03, 2010 at 4:35 AM
You are in the Toyota Avalon
What is this discussion about?
Toyota Avalon, Tires, Wheels, Sedan
#60 of 225 Re: 2000 Avalon Front End Problem [fin]
Oct 20, 2005 (9:04 am)
Man, I usually agree with you, but I have to take a slightly different edge on your post. I don't think it is a design problem at all. The parts, control arms, dampers, etc. are from the Toyota parts bin, with a little shuffling around. I think the problems more lie in the quality( I know other will have a cow!) of the parts used as OEM for Toyota. I think, frankly, some of them are inferior, and frankly, what works in a little Camry/Solara doesn't necessarily perform at the same standard on a heavier, longer Avalon.
Although I recently picked up a 2004 325ci, I still enjoy my Avalon at my workhorse, with many superior aftermarket parts, including TokicoHP struts, Falken Tires, PIAA 1500 driving and fog lights, PIAA wiper blades, XM stereo, Powerslot rotors, etc. While not a true sports machine, it has a fine balance of comfort and road handling capacity to make every day enjoyable.
#61 of 225 Re: 2000 Avalon Front End Problem [abfisch]
Oct 20, 2005 (7:14 pm)
We are still on the same page my friend.... What happens, I think, is that Toyota designs a great car. Good specs, it all works fine. Then some bean-counter comes along and asks if a cheaper part will do...it adds 50 cents to the cost of production to use "the good stuff".... so... let's make it out of something else. And there goes the spring quality, the brake rotor material, etc. Something must go to make the package work at the cash register. There really can't be any other reason because Toyota is one of the best in overall auto design work. Look at sales and durability of the products.
The bottom line is that, over time, we as Avalon owners find these little cost cutting ideas as we drive the car. The high speed nose dive, the battery cable corrosion, etc... We post what we observe on these boards. We also post recommended or satisfactory "fixes" such as your many ideas on brakes and suspension modifications.
Despite the best efforts of these dollar-watchers, the engineers must generally prevail. Avalon has a great record for repair free driving. My '03 XL is now on the third battery... but at 61k miles is still an otherwise good reliable car. Enjoy...
#62 of 225 Re: 2000 Avalon Front End Problem [abfisch]
Oct 21, 2005 (8:11 am)
"Start from the tires, then wheels, then rotors. See if any are out of balance or out of round."
My vibration ('99 Avalon XL) occurs right around 50 mph. The tire place did a road-force balance and said that would catch not only out-of-round tires, but any out-of-round or other problems with the wheels. Is that right?
"The struts, although not likely could be a contibuting factor with excessive mileage."
I've got 60,000 miles on 'em. Does that sound like it could be time for a new set? The previous owner had the strut MOUNTS replaced, but not the struts AFAIK. If it is time to replace, are Tokiko the way to go?
"If you have ruled out all of the above, and it still shimmies, then you have an inner CV joint problem/axle out of round."
After two sets of multiply-balanced new tires (Goodyear and now Michelins) and test-replacing both axles, the vibration is untouched . Haven't looked seriously at the brakes/rotors yet, but the vibe happens regardless of whether brakes are applied or not, whether engine is in gear or not, and whether the cars' moving straight or turning.
#63 of 225 Re: 2000 Avalon Front End Problem [fin]
Oct 21, 2005 (10:15 am)
Third battery??? You gotta be kidding me. Is the car parked outside in an ocean area??? Did you put those anti corrosion donuts on (green and red) and put lithium grease on the terminals??? I have 74K on my 02, make sure before winter that the terminals have grease or some kind of battery terminal sealer on it. The other thing I do in the spring, is take off the 6 cell covers, and with a small squirt bottle, fill up slowly and carefully with distilled H20 each cell.
i have not had one lick of problems, and if anyone gets problems, I definitely have terrible luck. Glad you are a contributor. You make this board fun and educational.
Hope the above helps, although I am sure you do all this already.
#64 of 225 tire dressing
Oct 15, 2005 (9:26 am)
Has anyone found a tire dressing that will not turn 'brown' after a couple of weeks?
I've tried two or three and each ones does turn my tires brown (or a tan) after a few weeks. I do live at the end of about 3/4 miles of dirt road, but this isn't dust nor dirt, just that the rubber turns brown.
How does the Z stuff for tires work?
#65 of 225 Nail on the tire - Should one or all tires must be replaced?
Oct 20, 2005 (11:48 am)
My 2003 Avlon XLS front tire got punctured by a sharp and long nail. Looks like I need to replace the tire. I have Michelin OEM tires and 12500 miles. Is it advisable to change only one tire or should I go for all the four?
Appreciate your valuable suggestions
#66 of 225 Re: Nail on the tire - Should one or all tires must be replaced? [aselvan]
Oct 20, 2005 (12:07 pm)
If the sidewall isn't damaged your tire may be able to be repaired.
If the tire is irreparable, AND the other tires don't have significant wear, then replace it with an identical tire, put the new tire on the rear wheel, the spare on the other rear wheel, the good previous front tire becomes the spare and the previous rears go up front.
If you have significant wear on the others you may as well replace all four. Get Bridgestone Turanza LS-H. You won't believe how quietly your Avalon will run.
#67 of 225 Re: Nail on the tire - Should one or all tires must be replaced? [aselvan]
Oct 21, 2005 (10:17 am)
I also agree with the above. 12500miles is not very much. If the tire is repairable, repair it, or secondly, get the same tire, and put the ones with the most wear or that is repaired towards the rear.
#68 of 225 Re: Nail on the tire - Should one or all tires must be replaced? [aselvan]
Oct 24, 2005 (4:17 pm)
Think I would have the tire patched on the inside of the tire. If it is a nail and is in the tread area, it should be able to be patched IMO. If you have a road hazard warranty, that may cover it too.
#69 of 225 New Tires/Worn Tires - Mounting Positions
Oct 21, 2005 (6:59 pm)
Once again, lets expand the knowledge base...
If you have 2 tires that match and are worn, and 2 more tires that are similar but are new (or have significantly more tread), always put the better tires on the rear.
The reason here is simple: safety.
If the front tires fail or slide, as in rain, you can correct with the steering wheel and/or accelerator. It's a problem, but you have a good chance at correcting it quickly. If the rear tire(s) fail, or slide, correction is far more difficult as you do not steer the rears. Essentially you have no control at the moment the problem occurs. And a moment is all you have.....
Racers usually call the problems "understeer" and "oversteer" for a racecar. The more dangerous is oversteer as the car will spin around before you can adjust to the problem. There is no time to react. Tire Rack has published articles on this on several occasions. It seems a little illogical but it's true. Also, mixing tires of different tread patterns, sizes, etc., on a passenger car adds a dimension that is truly unknown. For maximum safety, avoid this at all cost.
Obviously, this idea applies to any car, not just the Avalon. Drive safely, all....