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Toyota Avalon Suspension Questions

150 messages, Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 1:30 PM
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Dec 19, 2006 5:21 pm) abfisch
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Replying to: abfisch (Jan 04, 2007 6:15 am) Then I had moved out of town and the streets in my new area were rougher in general. This was August. The clunk and rattle in the left rear slowly became worse and there were some parts of town with the bad roads that caused me great cringing and quite embarrassing as it felt like the entire rear was loose or a buckle full of bolts. I had checked everything and took everything out of the trunk for the 5th time and tested the car with empty and full gas tank as well as the spare tire removed. No difference. Finally with the colder weather approaching, this annoyed me so much and during my times of tire rotation and alignments, I would ask the mechanic about it. Nobody could see anything but they all suggested new struts as this was the only thing I had not done. I checked around and after spending about $300 already and not getting anywhere, the price of new rear struts was generally around $500-550 and $850 from the dealership. The strut prices weren't too bad but the 4+ hours of labor was pretty much average. I checked online for prices, ebay being a good source but found that most shops would not put on products that were not bought from them; the few who did would not guarantee them, and I was also not knowledgeable enough to know if Monroe or Gabriel which many of the places normally recommended and carried would be any good or "tuned" as well to the Avalon as some people online felt they were of low quality with poor efficiency and lifetime compared to the more expensive Tokina or KYB which some noted a more stiffer ride. I was looking to eliminate the noise first but a ride comparable to the original ride. At last since I couldn't take the noise any longer, I had Sears put in Monroe Sensatraks back in Oct. as their labor costs were only $112 (although they run a half price installation often) and the struts were about $95 each (a little higher than what can be had through parts stores). But I figured $300 and some change a bargain. This seemed to help a few days and then the noise returned. In fact it was worse and I figured it was that the struts were stiffer and whatever was causing the noise, this amplified it. I took it back in in Dec. They noted the left rear strut was "shot" and replaced it. That seemed odd but unfortunately this did not fix it. Then recently with this cold weather, I was hearing noise from the right front--this was a belt or alternator or bearing noise and it was noted that the seals to the rack and pinion were broken and the power steering fluid was leaking. At this time I had pulled the rear seat out completely since this was a new mechanic I was trying out and wanted yet another opinion of the rear noise. They repaired the rack and pinion (long rack) and replaced the left CV axle as the boot was also broken (the right side being done within the year). With the seat removed, it was much more obvious the knocking noise from the left rear as well as outside road noise, etc. The mechanic had gotten in the back seat area with another driving and saw the strut moving excessively over rough surfaces as well as making a racquet. He noted it was the strut mount that was recently replaced 8 months ago. I confirmed this and put a hand over the upper assembly and this eliminated the noise while the car was moving. By the way, I had even gotten into the trunk several months ago to isolate the noise. Did not hear it but a scary experience and very noisy otherwise. Since then it is against the law to ride in the trunk, mainly due to kidnappings and kids being put in there for a quick transport. Good law by the way!! Well, this mechanic wanted to get the major upfront stuff fixed first but now I could tell it was the strut mount (again). Since this sits behind the seat and not very well exposed, mechanics do not see anything nor typically hear anything and unless they are aware of the strut mounts, are not likely to diagnose it correctly. Also one mechanic had suggested it was the seat making noise and not the suspension at all on a test drive and knowing the seat had been removed and replaced three times, I was looking for anything plausible. To make a long story short (LOL)--I then figured since Sears worked on the struts I would see what they had to offer and it was a Sunday and very few others were open. The mechanic was very nice and explained it was the strut mount most likely and commented that he knew I was serious with the rear seat out! Having the rear seat out also was not ideal but I was determined to get it fixed. He replaced the strut mount with a Monroe brand and this eliminated all noise and for the first time I can appreciate the overall improved suspension. The car is now quiet and since I had been hearing so much noise for over 2 years I had forgotten how the car was suppose to be and this also affects the ride as the strut moved around in the mount. I cannot say why the strut that was initially installed did not work properly. ? defective, perhaps not put in right? At least that mechanic had the right idea. This column also helped as I pretty much knew that it was the mount all along despite my limited mechanical and car experience and knowledge. But I was sidetracked as well as all the others after having a new mount installed initially. I would certainly go along with a strut mount being the problem with such noises and of course the bushings and struts themselves. Other undercarriage things like the exhaust and other links and even the wheel and brakes should be considered. BTW, I have 168,000 miles on the car and hope to get a little more use out of it.
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Replying to: toyota12 (Feb 06, 2007 6:15 pm) |
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Replying to: alanrmui (Nov 30, 2006 6:03 pm)
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Replying to: rbw57 (Feb 19, 2007 9:05 am) I thought it was quite odd that the second strut mount that was replaced some 8 months prior could be bad or "defective." Too bad the mechanics did not have enough sense to try this simple measure. I would have certainly saved a lot--and perhaps this will help others. I have noticed an early rattle noise on my right rear strut so I will try to tighten the nuts down and hopefully this is the fix. I did look and attempt to tighten the nut on the other side and they did appear tightened before having it replaced and wouldn't budge. As with such nuts and bolts, I don't have any air compressor power tools and not too familiar with how much torque I am delivering (by hand) so what seems to be tight or with no obvious appearing looseness, may not be. Thank you for your input again and I believe it is as you have noted all the problems. I did inquire however after the first mechanic replaced the strut mount and it still continued to make noise if he did tighten it properly and he said he did. Again being a layperson and being it was covered by the back seat and reluctant to take that out (which I finally did on my own and wasn't difficult), but you have to have some trust in those in the business-- it is that initial curve of going through the whole thing as being the most educational of course unfortunately. I look forward in getting the back seat out again and attempting to tighten the other side now!!
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Replying to: toyota12 (Feb 19, 2007 10:20 am) They would have most likely recommended replacing the struts with a car with high mileage on it. It is not something they can visualize. It is also a "problem" they are not too commobly aware of it seems. The rear seat has to be out and two people have to test drive it--one driving and the other in the back seeing and hearing the strut loose in the mount!! Most places take it out for a test drive, either hear nothing or very little in their limited drive and if they do hear anything, they recommend a strut and may notice some moisture around the strut to confirm their suspension. Most mechanics also are not bothered by some rattle and noise as it is not their car and with something of high mileage they consider this to be normal in many cases. To the owner, it is a very annoying, cringing experience that is anticipated over every uneven surface. I think my rear struts had gotten a little soft with 168,000 miles on the car however and I guess this is consolation for it all--it seems to be doing much better now that the strut mount and screws are finally and properly placed on the left side. Now I am able to hear the beginnings on the right rear side but will certainly attempt to tighten the screws better before taking it again. |
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I have a 2007 Avalon purchased in Sept 06. A couple of weeks ago the rear suspension made a "creaking/squeaking" noise when going over bumps. Sounded like the rear end was 20 yrs old. Took the car to the Toyota dealer and they said that they had experienced this on one other Avalon and some Camrys, but that Toyota "doesn't have a fix". They claimed the noise may be coming from the strut supports, springs or something closely related. The only work-around that they said Toyota Engineering had was to dissassemble both sides (drvr/pass) stut/spring assemblies and put a piece of felt between the strut support and the body and then greased everything else. I beleive that this is obviously a temporary fix and I will be back there at some point. I also have a noise in the right rear of the passenger compartment in cold weather. I'm a bit disenchanted with the new Toyota Avalon. Anyone else have this experience, and if so, what have you been told? |
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I'm planning to buy a new XLS, but don't like the stock suspension. (too soft, too uncontrolled) I don't like the color choices offered on the Touring model. Do you know of any simple upgrades available for the 05-07 Avalon that would bring it close to the Touring model?
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Replying to: kirkkempen (Feb 26, 2007 6:44 pm) abfisch
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Replying to: abfisch (Feb 27, 2007 7:27 am)
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