You are here:
Forums
Sedans
Toyota Avalon
Toyota Avalon Suspension Questions

150 messages, Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 1:30 PM
You are in the Toyota Avalon Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
|
A few years ago when I had my '03, the shocks went " jello" on me at about 30K and I went to KYBs with excellent results. In my '06 company car the same thing just happened over the last 1000 miles, It does happen quickly and progresses rapidly. I'd like to take the same route with my '06 XL but initial checks indicate that there isn't an aftermarket shock available. Anybody aware of any?
|
|
|
Replying to: gerry100 (Oct 26, 2007 9:55 am) |
|
|
Replying to: gerry100 (Oct 26, 2007 9:55 am) You may want to try Energy Poly sway bar bushings. They improved my 03 quite a bit before I did the new struts. Very inexpensive too. See earlier suspension posts. My old ones only had 50k on them and weren't that bad. May even try to sell them. |
|
| This is in follow-up to my rear strut mounts on a 1996 Toyota Avalon. I replaced the left rear before as well as the struts for a metal to metal like noise especially during cold weather and going over rough surfaces or over a pothole with the affected side but speed bumps did not seem to incite the problem. This winter my rear right started acting up just as the left did before. Knowing pretty much exactly what was wrong, I found the lowest price at Sears ($80 for labor and $50 for the strut mount) whereas everyone else wanted $325 or more. The mechanic took it for a test drive and did whatever else and said he found nothing wrong with the car and didn't want to replace the strut. I thanked them for their honesty (also Sears does not charge any diagnostic charges at least for this as many auto repair places now seem to want to tack on an $80 or 90 fee --the local Toyota dealership does so as well as many other shops). I said I have been through this before and I'll take the chance of having the strut repaired to eliminate the very annoying and cringing and grimacing over rough surfaces for peace of mind. The other counter person had heard my conversation and said just spray some lithium lubricant on it--I said I was tired of having to take the back seat out for all the temporary fixes and that the nuts were also on as tight as they can be. So far, the replacement has fixed my problem. Next time I will have it done in pairs as such paired things tend to go out within 18 months of each other--CV joints is another fine example of such wear. In my case, nothing short of replacing the strut mounts worked. | |
I know nothing about cars and am trying not to get swindled like always. I have a thick bar broken in half hanging down inside of my front driver's side tire. I had one person look so far and they said it was a sway bar and that they would have to get into the steering column to fix it and that they didn't do that. They referred me somewhere else, but the question is that when I look up sway bars on the internet, they don't look the same. The parts I see on the internet are the upper part that is coming down from somewhere up above. But, the part that is broken is the large (approx 1 inch diameter) bar that is supposed to go horizontal toward the middle of the car. This has snaped. Is this indeed a sway bar? Does anyone have any idea what it SHOULD cost to fix something like this? The car runs as smooth as ever and I don't even know how long it has been hanging there! Thanks for any advice.
|
|
|
Replying to: tamraw (Jan 20, 2008 8:34 am) Wait for a more tech member, such as *abfisch*, to give you a more detailed answer. But at least you know what the sway bar is and what it does. You will likely not hurt the car driving slowly but higher speeds may make it hard to control on some roads. It needs to be fixed. Hope this helps. |
|
| Does anyone know if you can swap the XLS springs onto a Touring Strut? A friend has a 2008 Touring and would like to soften the ride a bit. I know that the struts between the two models have different part numbers but will it work and will it provide a softer ride? In working on older cars I know that changing the springs have always played an important role in ride quality more so than just changing the shocks. Any information would be greatly appreciated. | |
|
">I have a 2001 avalon with 115K on it. Several months ago someone backed into the left rear door. It seemed to be minor damage. However, they did have to replace the back door. Following the accident, I had to replace the left rear bearings because they started making a noise. coincidence? After the accident, I put new Michelin Primacy tires on it and had it aligned. Then I noticed that it pulled to the left on the highway. The body shop, that is very reputable, checked the frame and it was off by 6 mm in the back. Not much. They realigned it again and everything was straight. My Avalon still pulls to the left. I'm not sure what to do and am thinking about getting rid of it. I hate to because I just put new brakes, tires, timing belt...the whole enchalada thinking this car would be good for another 250K... Any advice?
|
|
|
Replying to: toxman (Feb 11, 2008 7:43 am) Try this, in order: First, check all air pressure. Next, rotate tires diagonally. This will resolve tire defect causes. Make sure wheels are torqued properly at rotation as mag wheels will warp. After driving, if it still pulls, check the brake rotor temp with a heat sensor. Dragging calipers can cause pulling. If it still pulls to one side, it's the alignment. It did not do it before the work, now it does. Find settings that eliminate the pull. Had to do this on my '03 XL, same basic car you have. It can be done, my tire guy did it. Hope this helps. Good luck. |
|
You are here:
Forums
Sedans
Toyota Avalon
Toyota Avalon Suspension Questions
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2010 Toyota Avalon



Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats