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Sedans Toyota Avalon Toyota Avalon Suspension Questions
147 messages, Last post on Aug 24, 2009 at 11:14 AM
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Replying to: texases (Jun 15, 2007 9:54 am) You may want to check resale values. People don't usually consider that. Also depends if you like to do things in stages to see the result. That's me. I like to make something the way I want it, and I can take it as far as I like. Like AB says, we now have something unique. I'm quite satisfied. If you want to float like a butterfly - or a Buick, stock struts are probably OK. Maybe just do bushings. I like more control, albeit with a bit stiffer ride, so did bushings and KYB GR2 struts. Come to think of it, I haven't installed my rear bushings yet. The fronts made a noticeable difference. Check bar size before ordering. Mine, on our 03 were an odd size. 17mm, and I could only get 16mm bushings for the rear, so I need to resize the holes. |
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Replying to: 55396 (Jun 15, 2007 6:41 am) |
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This is in follow-up to the problems of many others including myself with strut mount noise over bumps and rough surfaces. Despite new shocks, mounts and anti-swaybar bushings, I still had excessive noise soon after each repair. Not as bad as the original clunk over a pothole of the rear-left but enough to be annoying and aggravating. Once having the rear seat out completely and exposing the upper mount assembly, I was able to tell, see and feel that the strut mounts were "loose" while in the rear seat area with another person driving and all it took was a slight amount of pressure to quiet them down. I am sure there is suppose to be a little play however for after all the top of the strut is moving up and down and the mount is like a ball-joint. I have seen that with the struts, as an accessory one can obtain a bump guard or jounce bump which helps with bottoming out but in my case the noise was generated with even 15 mph over a slightly irregular residential street that caused the suspension to "jiggle." "abfisch" had noted a few times that all was needed was to tighten the 3 retaining bolts down. This sounded reasonable but in my case they were already as tight as they could be and were already flush. I experimented and built the area up using some towels and foam rubber and replaced the rear seat and this took 80% of the noise away. Although this was good, I wanted a more permanent and gratifing fix to this few year old problem that I had spent considerable money and time on to replace all the possible offending parts. I had Monroe Sensa-traks struts and mounts placed since the Toyota dealership wanted twice the amount. It may be that it takes a true Toyota OEM strut and mount that may fit somewhat different and be "tuned" for the way the car was set-up but I had my repairs done piecemeal and this thought is in retrospect. I just did get a can of "Great Stuff" for cracks and gaps--a spray foam that expands and binds and squirted this on top of the mounts in hopes this would create pressure and a seal and reduce the noise and bind-up that little bit of movement from the upper aspect. So far this worked like a charm. I replaced and tried every other bit of repair and this less than $5 fix seems to be the best. Hope this helps someone else.
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Replying to: toyota12 (Jun 24, 2007 11:38 am) The spray foam sounds like a messy but fair idea. Usually the noise is caused by motion, something that "Great Stuff" would be able to suppress but not eliminate. Whatever works though. Good enough. abfisch abfisch |
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Replying to: toyota12 (Jun 24, 2007 11:38 am)
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Replying to: dreameral (Jul 01, 2007 5:31 am) The seat portion is snapped-in place. Just pull up on one end near the front portion of it and it will come loose--do this again for the other side. There is a stronger snap-in for the mid-portion--again use steady force in the front rear and this will come out. Don't worry--you will not break anything (my same thoughts initially). The fasteners to the seat are very sturdy and I have taken it out several times now without difficulty. After you get this out, the rear portion is bolted down by 4 bolts that secure a U-shaped metal hinge to the rear chassis. There are two in the lower center which are the larger ones and two on the lower aspect at the very ends. A hex wrench is useful for the 2 center ones and either that or just the right type of wrench is needed for the outer two. Now be on the lookout that the seatbelt fasteners are attached to the two most-centered bolts and the seat-belts from the rear deck also cross over the rear cushion backrest but they are easily moved aside. The rear back is held securely by three rear hinges that fit in a socket-like assembly but doesn't snap in place. I found it best as it is awkard to remove it--I stand where the rear seat that was just removed--position myself centrally, squat down (thanks to the amble rear passenger seat and leg room) and put both hands underneath it and lift upards. Best to have two people do it from each side of course but if you don't have a helper, one can do it just barely!! You can either slide it forward to get to the rear strut mount upper assembly or if you want to remove it entirely, then move the seatbelts out of the way and tweak it out (bit cumbersome but after a few times it gets to be old hat. The putting back the two cushions is essentially the reverse--just be sure that the three rear fasteners go up and over and into the 3 slots so it fits flush with the rear. Also, when putting the seat portion back in, you have to thread the three seatbelt fasteners--one is a double through the appropriate holes in the cushion. You cannot break anything or do any harm. Many car parts such as carpet fasteners in the trunk or headlamps or door panels have these plastic snap-like material that after a car gets some age on it, they may become brittle and caution and easy-going is the key. But the snaps for the seat are heavy-duty--it is only the seat cushion itself that snaps from three points and yes the first time you have to give a little heave-ho. The rear cushion just fastens into a holder and then bolts in from the front area. And by the way, my spray of Great Stuff so far has solved my problem of the upper strut mount assembly having too much play and annoying noises over rough pavement. My $5 can fix (only used probably 50 cents worth) has done a much better job than the $700 I spent replacing the strut mounts, struts and anti-sway bar bushings. It took me some repairs, going to several places, etc. but I essentially finally figured it out myself and have a better knowledge of it than most mechanics who offered their recommendations. Now granted the first one had replaced the strut mount and that was essentially the problem the whole time. Initially it really made a metal-to-metal noise over pot-holes, manholes, etc. But I don't know why it didn't fix it 100%. Unless the Toyota strut mounts are somehow different that other manufacturers. My car has 170,000 miles on it and I am sure the springs are soft and the rear doesn't sit up as high as it did when new (since my Mom has the same exact car and year but with 30,000 miles on it and hers sits up higher)--but all the mechanics noted that this shouldn't have anything to do with it--and normally springs do pretty good and rarely need replacing so unless it is broken or something, they will not recommend replacing it. Perhaps ideally I need to replace those too or perhaps get a new Avalon!!! But it is running good and there is no noise now so things are good for now. I bought it new in 1996 with the hopes of getting 200,000 miles on it or more and so far still trying to achieve that goal.
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Replying to: toyota12 (Jul 01, 2007 6:11 pm) abfisch
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Replying to: abfisch (Jul 03, 2007 10:18 am) That's right they are roomier, more powerful and get better fuel economy. I loved my '03 XL but the '06 XLS I own now beats it in every way with the exception of the front seats. The '03s were a bit larger.
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Replying to: tjc78 (Jul 03, 2007 5:53 pm) You know I feel just the opposite. I guess that is why they changed it. I have an 02 with a bench seat. Like seating in a living room. I sat in the new one. Not only did the console hit my knees when my foot was on the gas with the seat all the way back, but I hit my head getting out of the car on the roof line. And then the trunk is much smaller, and then although the stats are greater, it cannot tow over 1000lbs. Soooo. I walked away from it, going, numbers can be deceiving, but this new one does not do it for me. And for the 30K, I found something that was alot more fun, from a fun standpoint. If that is what you mean by "beat it". The new one is a very nice, comfortable cruising car, people on this thread still complain time to time about the suspension. But suspension issues usually arise with the age and mileage of the vehicles, not with someone that is I guess lucky enough to change vehicles every three years. abfisch
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Replying to: abfisch (Jul 18, 2007 11:06 am) I assume that was the trade off for the reclining rear seats - which I would never use. Sounds like a sales gimmick to me. They may work fine, but when I own a car, I drive it or ride in the front. If someone wants to ride along, they can damn well sit upright and suffer. There, I said it and I'm glad. Seriously, does anyone use this feature? How? For Grannie?
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