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Toyota Avalon Suspension Questions

150 messages,  Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 1:30 PM

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What is this discussion about? Toyota Avalon, Suspension, Sedan


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#2 of 150
Suspension Problems by jagoode
Aug 04, 2003 (4:32 pm)
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I bought a 99 Avalon a year ago from the Dealer. I purchased the extended warranty.
 
Within 1 month, I had the front struts and mounts replaced, complementary, due to excessive noise. However, the noises are still there. In the back too, but they say they can't hear that... must be because the front rattle too loud.
 
Clunking and rattling are the primary sounds. There is also a lot of motion in the steering wheel and accellerator pedal when you hit certain types of bumps and pot-holes.
 
While I always try to avoid hitting bumps, I can't help to believe that when I go over lane reflectors, the wheels shouldn't sound and feel like they are going to fall off. Coming from a '82 Celica and a 8'5 Supra with 200,000 miles with original suspensions and nothing close as far as sounds and feelings, I feel cheated by latest technology, or lack thereof.
 
Anyone else have this problem and know a remedy? Aftermarket suspension kits, anything?
#3 of 150
Answer to Post#214 Suspension Problems Answered by abfisch
Aug 11, 2003 (8:00 am)
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Post #214:
 
I think I can help you somewhat with your suspension problems. It is going to cost you a little, but the car will ride vastly improved. I did some of this to a 2002 Avalon, cause the shocks are extremely weak, and the changes are precious.
 
1. Buy 4 Tokico HD Gas Shocks for your vehicle year. If you live in a winter environment, you can undercoat them, but be careful not to get undercoating on the piston part or it will damage the seals. You can buy them over the internet.
 
2. Buy ALL NEW Toyota, bushings, dust covers, and insulators that have to do with the strut housing. Email a guy called Larry at his Toyota dealership at <larrybrandsport.com> Let him know I sent you.
 
3. Find a competent, wheel and alignment place near your home. Have them drive your Avalon first with the old stuts.
 
4. Then have them put the new struts and bushing on and align the car again.
 
Good luck. Let me know how things turn out.
#4 of 150
Thanks Nomad56/PU bushings for sway bars install by abfisch
Nov 03, 2003 (6:00 am)
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Nomad56:
 
Thanks for double checking that fuel filter install. That is what I was told that if you take the filler cap off, let it sit awhile, than the pressure decreases and it will leak but not much. Now, where is the DARN thing???? I could not find it?? Do you access it from below with the car on the lift or from above??? Driver's side or passenger??
 
The PU busings for the sway bars, both front and rear took longer than I wanted. The install for the rear were easy, as access to them was easy. Since the parts are really for a 97-99 Avalon,(there is no listed part for 2000-present), they are tight around the sway bar but not problems. The front install was a different matter. The curved fire wall makes accessing the rear screw difficult, especially any person that has large hands. Anyone doing this needs a straight rachet wrench. I did not have one, and it made getting to the bolts in front very tedious. I could only turn the darn thing a quarter turn at a time, and the threads were so close, I was ready to be committed by the time I got them snug. The maual states 14lbs of torque, not very much. The ride does not change that dramitically, but it is a little more harsh, not real difference in sway charactaristics, but a difference in cut in response from lane to lane. I am going to have someone professional do the CAB cause they will have to realign it anyway, and I don't want to get frustrated more.
 
I saw the New Acura TL. Very nice, 10K less than a BMW 5 series. But...this is not an inexpensive car, as premium fuel must be used, and those dual exhausts are expensive when replacement time comes. Nevertheless, with XM radio and the typical simple but refined, multi link double wishbone suspension, it is more performance than an Avalon, albeit more expensive.
 
Let me know when you trick the steering and how difficult it is. I am at the peak of making this car better. It is just about maintenance now.
 
Thanks for all your good help. I always enjoy this forum and get much more from all your technical know how than all the dealerships combined.
 
abfisch
#5 of 150
sway bar bushing size? by novrain
Sep 22, 2004 (1:08 pm)
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Replying to: abfisch (Nov 03, 2003 6:00 am)

Hi all, I ordered two rear sway bar bushings for my 96 avalon from a local Autozone. The are made by Energy Suspension with parts number #8.5120, which matches what I found on their website. The problem is that I found these bushings are shorter (about 1/4") than the factory ones. Too bad my new PU bushings don't fit tightly in the brackets! Has anyone else had this problem before? Thanks!
#6 of 150
PU CAB Bushing by abfisch
Nov 05, 2003 (4:37 am)
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Nomad56:
 
One more question before I begin this project. Just want to make sure I am replacing the correct bushing in the correct place. In looking at the Rear Suspension Components, the suspension arm #1 and #2 attach to the frame at the suspensio member and at the wheel at the rear axle carrier.
 
It is the ones to the suspension member( the ones in the middle of the chassis) that I am replacing in the rear, not the ones near the rear axle carrier and strut. Correct????
 
Just want to make sure before I start taking everything apart.
 
Thanks again for the tech info. Love this forum.
 
Looked at a 5 series yesterday. Thought of you. Terribly complicated car. I like the old ones better. Let me know when you get around to driving the Acura TL with the 6M tranny.
 
abfisch
#7 of 150
PU CAB Bushing by abfisch
Nov 17, 2003 (7:01 am)
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Avalon Forum and Nomad56:
 
I attempted to change the Rear Control Arm bushing last week, but only got as far as getting the car up on the lift. It seems, at least from 2000 and on, the bolts that go through the suspension member throught the suspension arms go from the front of the vehicle to the back. You cannot take them off, they are too long and not enough space without either dropping the gas tank or the control arm and the suspension member.
 
For me that would have been an 8 hour job, and just did not seem worth it for a two year old car. The PU bushing for the sway bars, front and rear, were alot easier and the Tokico HP shocks give this car more than enough sporty hanlding now.
 
Unless you have some suggestions, to make this install easier, I am going to hold on to the bushing and wait until I have to change the exhaust, align the car again, and then take it all down.
 
If anyone has any technical info. on this install, please let me know, but this is NOT for the average golfer. You need a couple of people to take down that transverse cross member some.
 
Thanks. Nomad56???
 
abfisch
#8 of 150
PU switch... by nomad56
Nov 17, 2003 (8:18 pm)
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ab-I've been away for a week, leaving again in two days. Anyway, I removed the strut rod and suspension arms without too much trouble. ...perhaps a little different on your newer Avy???? Unfortunately, I will not be near the garage for two weeks...I'll check it out next time I'm there. Note: I air hammered 'em out/in ON the car. I did not remove the carrier. -nomad56-
#9 of 150
PU CAB Bushing switch by abfisch
Nov 18, 2003 (6:34 am)
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Nomad56:
 
Thanks for the response. On the net, a gentleman removed the same bushings out of his MR2. He described the same set up (Toyota set up) as I have. It leads me to believe that is the way they set up their suspension systems with good reason. The bolts cannot come out even if the nuts come off. Very safe but painful to work on.
 
Thanks for the effort. I can wait on these until major repairs at 200K need to be made. Perhaps they will have other bushing parts by this time anyway.
 
abfisch
#10 of 150
98 Avalon XLS Questions by jrebot
Dec 27, 2003 (6:44 pm)
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Hi,
 
I just bought a 98 Avalon and I am getting a thumping sound from the front passenger side when I go over bumps. The car has 25700 miles on it.
 
What needs to be done? The car is not under warranty.
 
Thanks.
 
Joe

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