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Sedans Toyota Avalon Toyota Avalon Interior
164 messages, Last post on Apr 20, 2009 at 10:08 AM
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Replying to: badgerfan (Aug 18, 2006 8:59 am) There are some automatic climate control designs that are much more subject to windshield fogging/misting than others. Mostly those are of asian origin using a design by NipponDenso or in the US, Denso US. Basically if your system automatically switches from footwell airflow into dash/footwell or dash only as the cabin temperature rises to your setpoint then you have one of the subject systems. It is only in one of the footwell modes that a portion of the system airflow is routed to the windshield to help prevent fogging. Another test is to simply switch into defrost/defog/demist mode during cooling operation and see if you get WARM airflow to the windshield. And don't forget that either source, or both, for that thin film on the windshield will actually accelerate the fogging of the windshield should that surface be at or near the dewpoint. |
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Replying to: wwest (Aug 18, 2006 9:14 am) Bob |
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Replying to: bobwiley (Aug 18, 2006 9:29 am) |
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Replying to: badgerfan (Aug 18, 2006 8:59 am)  when i clean the plastic (yea) in my LX class vehicles, i use water ONLY. when i clean the inside of my windows, i use Windex.
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Replying to: user777 (Aug 19, 2006 4:02 am) |
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Replying to: bobwiley (Aug 18, 2006 9:29 am) 1. Rain-ex works well, however, beware that it will cause your windshield wipers to wear out faster. Considering the cost of Avalon's propietary wipers, this could be a consideration. Inasmuch as this works, RAIN-EX is NOT window cleaner, rather, a window treatment. 2. If you live in a climate with any type of humidity, and you drive with the windows open, the inside of the windshield is going to continue to get a film, of sorts, on the inside. I speak of this from 16 years of life in the Caribbean. Due to how much I HATE cleaning my windows, I NEVER EVER drive with them open. I literally open and close as fast as possible. This may very well be the film you are describing, which believe me, has NOTHING TO DO with gases from vinyl and leather in the car. I have proven this to myself, over and over again, where each time I decide to "save gas" by opening the windows, they get fogged up in three days, to the point where I can't see out of them at night. 3. It is not necessary to use ammonia-free cleaners, unless you have aftermarket window tinting. If you do, however, and you use windex ONCE, you can ruin your tint, as it WILL turn indigo blue. 4. I never spray any products inside my car--always on the toweling material, and then wipe. If you get vinyl products on the glass, you will be cleaning glass a while. If you get ammonia or alcohol on your vinyl, it will dry. 5. The very best vinyl product is Vinylex by Lexol--available at Pep Boys, or online at Bavarian Autosport. 6. I can't imagine putting something as cheap and tacky on my $44K (no, that is not a typo) Avalon as a dash mat. If you have all windows tinted--yes, ALL, with the darkest legal tint in your state, NEVER leave the car without the back shade up, the sunroof shade closed, and a reflective window shade in the windshield, you will have no heat problems. My cars are not garaged, stay in full tropical sun all day long, and I have no problems with heat, or drying leather or vinyl. 7. Leather seats, as nice as they are, can be a lot of work to keep up, unless you don't mind dried, stained leather. Again, Lexol products are superior to cheaper ones. If you live with either extreme heat or cold (not many don't), then I recommend cleaning and conditioning every 6-8 weeks. Remember, YOU CANNOT RESTORE MOISTURE TO VINYL OR LEATHER, only make it look better. It is like hair; once it's damaged, there is only so much you can do--preventing drying is the best defense. 8. While I'm typing--if you want your paint to look it's best, avoid "one step" products. Effective paint care requires three, yes three, steps: Clean, Glaze, and Wax. I always do two coats of the last two, and this means five, yes, five, coats on the car (in my case every three months). If you take the time to do this, your car will look new for as long as you own it, literally. All just my opinion, however, after years of trial and error experience, and always detailing my own cars, or, hiring people to work with me under my very direct supervision. Regards, to all. |
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Replying to: magrezza (Aug 19, 2006 3:42 pm) |
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Replying to: magrezza (Aug 19, 2006 3:42 pm) |
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Replying to: magrezza (Aug 19, 2006 3:42 pm) VR Bob
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Replying to: bobwiley (Aug 19, 2006 7:08 pm) 1. In Puerto Rico, taxes on vehicles that have an MSRP of about $25K or more, are about 30%; I have a 2006 Blizzard White Limited, no XMS, no Nav, No autostart, No wind deflectors, No spoiler, and everything else you list above, otherwise. If the vehicle's base MSRP is higher than about 60%, then, in some cases, the tax can reach 100%. A new Mercedes S Class, for example, prices out at about $140K. 2. Whatever the climate or humidity, I certainly vote for the climate effect, as opposed to any strange gases that are fogging our windows. My advice, based upon comments here, is that we all test combinations of open and closed windows, and do whatever works best. In my case, for example, if I literally only open my windows to talk to security guards at gated communities I visit, I can go two months without having to clean the inside of my windshield. If leather and vinyl cleaners and protectants give off gas, then they certainly don't fog your windows. I use so much of this stuff that my friends make fun of me when they get in my car, and I've never had gassed windows from use of these products. 3. My apologies for the misunderstanding about Rain-ex. I wasn't aware that they made a window cleaner. I'm sure it's very good. I still wouldnt' use the windshiled protect on my car, for reasons previously mentioned. 4. Car washing tip: I use my Ortho garden sprayer more for my car than anything else. No bucket needed; simply pour a couple tablespoons of car washing liquid in the container, and set as you wish. Spray works to rinse, and also spray product on the car. 5. Another note: you should NEVER, EVER, EVER--even if you are going to wax your car--use any type of dishwashing detergent on your paint. 6. I have proven to myself that, even car washing products that claim to "not strip wax" can, if you use them in a high concentration. If your car is very dirty, DO NOT use a lot of cleaner, rather, wash the car two, or even three, times, as necessary. 7. NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, use any "no touch" alloy wheel cleaning products on your alloy wheels. What do you think is strong enough to remove brake dust without rubbing--ACID, of course! Even when used as directed, over time, you will remove the clearcoat on the wheels. I use the same product for wheels as my paint, along with a stiff wheel brush, and they look as good as the day I bought the car. I also recommend that, if your dealer washes your car as part of service, CLEARLY STATE that they are not to use such products on your wheels. I once had the wheels of a new BMW convertible ruined BY THE DEALER when they did this to my car. They obviously left whatever they were using far too long, and masked this with silicone spray. It wasn't until one week later, when I washed the car myself, that I realized my wheels had NO LAQUER. They refused to respond, and I had to have them clear-coated at a body shop to hide the damage! Regards, to all!
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