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Toyota Avalon Climate Control Questions

193 messages,  Last post on Oct 08, 2009 at 5:22 PM

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What is this discussion about? Toyota Avalon, Heating / Cooling, Sedan


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#144 of 193
Post 143...added info.... by mashoud
Sep 19, 2007 (10:05 am)
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Forgot to mention on the above...
The air conditioning works fine on both sides...plenty of cooling and acceptable temperature control on both sides.
The problem is just with no heat on the passenger side.
#145 of 193
Recirculation/Fresh Air and Foggy Interior Windows by todd45
Dec 10, 2007 (12:17 pm)
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Hello all,
 
I have a 1998 Toyota Avalon XLS in mint condition with 240km on it. We are the second owners and everyting works great except when you start the car the climate system automatically switches to recycled air and will not shut off until you manually switch it to fresh air. We had the problem addressed which worked for about two days and then returned. I am told that it needs a $500.00 part under the dash that tells the damper motor what to do. Does this sound correct to anyone? Also, living in Canada and heating in the winter is very necessary. The car heats up fine it just won't defog the interior windows. I have seen this before on some GM products but never to this extent. I drove it last night and with the exception of the front windshield I could barely see out of the car any where else. Should the defog and defrost function not take care of this? What might be the problem. I am new to this site and may experience difficulties navigating around but I will respond to a read all responses as soon as I find them. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Regards
#146 of 193
Re: Recirculation/Fresh Air and Foggy Interior Windows [todd45] by wwest
Dec 10, 2007 (9:37 pm)
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Replying to: todd45 (Dec 10, 2007 12:17 pm)

See...
 
http://www.carspace.com/guides/SAFEand-Comfortable-Winter-Driving
 
Google for:
 
wwest denso demist
#147 of 193
Re: Recirculation/Fresh Air and Foggy Interior Windows [wwest] by todd45
Dec 11, 2007 (6:26 am)
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Replying to: wwest (Dec 10, 2007 9:37 pm)

Thanks wwest. I appreciate the input.
 
Regards
#148 of 193
Cabin Air filter by mdeal
Apr 21, 2008 (7:24 am)
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Replying to: dlamken (Jun 07, 2005 4:21 pm)

Dave,
 I too am having problems changing out a air filter on my 2000 Avalon
 Bought one from auto parts store & the directions that came w/ it
 are diffrent than my year.Instead of a phillips screw for the glove box stop,it
 is some type screw you have to line up w/ a slot to remove.Any help
 would be great.
 Thanks MIke
#149 of 193
Foul odor from interior air vents by rsh1
Jul 09, 2008 (8:49 am)
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My husband and I purchased a 2007 Toyota Avalon Ltd in the fall of 2006; overall we are extremely pleased with the vehicle. However, there is a foul smell coming from the air vents when a/c or outside air is on. The dealer says that the recommended fix is to simply spray lysol into the vents from under the hood. Seems to me that only masks a deeper problem. Anyone have this problem?
#150 of 193
Re: Foul odor from interior air vents [rsh1] by tjc78
Jul 09, 2008 (9:41 am)
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Replying to: rsh1 (Jul 09, 2008 8:49 am)

The dealer is right. There is most likely a touch of mold in the ducts. The Lysol will typically cure it.
#151 of 193
Re: Foul odor from interior air vents [rsh1] by amauhry
Jul 09, 2008 (12:44 pm)
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Replying to: rsh1 (Jul 09, 2008 8:49 am)

Kill the fungi first (any bacteria disinfectant spray may do the trick). If left alone, your situation will reoccur, and then you’ll have to spray more Lysol again.
 
Long-term solution: right after using the AC on hot & humid days you should run the blower (AC off) at high speed and in heat mode for about 2 minutes. Use “outside air” mode; not the “recirculated” mode. This will dry the ducts and evaporator fins and coils leaving no room for mold and mildew to grow.
 
Amaury
'08 Limited
#152 of 193
Re: Foul odor from interior air vents [amauhry] by wwest
Jul 10, 2008 (6:15 am)
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Replying to: amauhry (Jul 09, 2008 12:44 pm)

Contrary to the above, it will take at least 10-15 minutes, typically, but up to an hour to raise the temperature of the 10,000 square inches of evaporator vane surface area enough to have the remaining thin film of moisture thereon begin to evaporate into the airstream. The operational "target" temperature of the evaporator is ~34F.
 
Absent modifications to the system your best bet is to leave the windows down slight each and EVERY night provided the car is under shelter.
 
For a really viable modification go to:
 
airsept.com
 
And read up on their EED, Electronic Evaporator Dryer.
#153 of 193
Re: Foul odor from interior air vents [amauhry] by wwest
Jul 10, 2008 (6:27 am)
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Replying to: amauhry (Jul 09, 2008 12:44 pm)

The heater core is ALWAYS downstream of the evaporator core so it does no good to turn up the heat when attempting to dry the evaporator. And just how long it will take for the thin film of moisture to begin to evaporate off of the near freezing evaporator vane surface area is a function of the outdoor climate. Your 2 minute "estimate" would imply an OAT of >100F and an Rh of <20% And this "condition" is not restricted to HOT and Humid days, most modern day climate control system run the A/C all year around (primarily for dehumidification during the heating seasons) and so the evaporator vanes can be literally "choked" with moisture at any point the A/C is switched off. The growth of the microbes leading to the "dirty gym socks odor" is primarily between 60-70F in a dark, moist, "dank" environment. Say in your heated garage at night in the dead of winter.

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