Last post on Feb 10, 2013 at 2:29 PM
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Toyota Avalon, Heating / Cooling, Sedan
#143 of 217 Heating and Cooling problem in 2001 Avalon XLS
Sep 19, 2007 (9:59 am)
Have a very frustrating problem with heating in a 2001 XLS with automatic climate control (selective for driver and passenger).
As far as I am concerned, this is nothing but a headache and much prefer the manual system for reasons of simplicity.
The problem is in the HEATING aspect. When you require heat, only the driver side vents throw out heat and very faint heat on the floor level.
The passenger side simply freezes..just cold air both on the feet and vents. The problem is, you cannot shut off the vents on the passenger side either and so the car is heating on the driver side and cooling on the passenger side. We have to carry blankets to cover up and stay thawed for the passenger.
Went to Toyota dealership and they say that some vent is just dangling in the heatt/cool unit under the dash and the whole unit(RADIATOR part no 87050-07111) will have to be changed. The unit costs $2381.90 cdn. and labour added, will cost $3214.35 cdn.
For a 6 year old car, this kind of thing should never happen. Never a problem in my Audi or my Saab.
Anyone out there with a similar problem and any diagnosis, please share your genius.!!!????
Yoyota should be ashamed...
#144 of 217 Post 143...added info....
Sep 19, 2007 (10:05 am)
Forgot to mention on the above...
The air conditioning works fine on both sides...plenty of cooling and acceptable temperature control on both sides.
The problem is just with no heat on the passenger side.
#145 of 217 Recirculation/Fresh Air and Foggy Interior Windows
Dec 10, 2007 (12:17 pm)
I have a 1998 Toyota Avalon XLS in mint condition with 240km on it. We are the second owners and everyting works great except when you start the car the climate system automatically switches to recycled air and will not shut off until you manually switch it to fresh air. We had the problem addressed which worked for about two days and then returned. I am told that it needs a $500.00 part under the dash that tells the damper motor what to do. Does this sound correct to anyone? Also, living in Canada and heating in the winter is very necessary. The car heats up fine it just won't defog the interior windows. I have seen this before on some GM products but never to this extent. I drove it last night and with the exception of the front windshield I could barely see out of the car any where else. Should the defog and defrost function not take care of this? What might be the problem. I am new to this site and may experience difficulties navigating around but I will respond to a read all responses as soon as I find them. Any help would be appreciated.
#147 of 217 Re: Recirculation/Fresh Air and Foggy Interior Windows [wwest]
Dec 11, 2007 (6:26 am)
Thanks wwest. I appreciate the input.
#148 of 217 Cabin Air filter
Apr 21, 2008 (7:24 am)
I too am having problems changing out a air filter on my 2000 Avalon
Bought one from auto parts store & the directions that came w/ it
are diffrent than my year.Instead of a phillips screw for the glove box stop,it
is some type screw you have to line up w/ a slot to remove.Any help
would be great.
#149 of 217 Foul odor from interior air vents
Jul 09, 2008 (8:49 am)
My husband and I purchased a 2007 Toyota Avalon Ltd in the fall of 2006; overall we are extremely pleased with the vehicle. However, there is a foul smell coming from the air vents when a/c or outside air is on. The dealer says that the recommended fix is to simply spray lysol into the vents from under the hood. Seems to me that only masks a deeper problem. Anyone have this problem?
#150 of 217 Re: Foul odor from interior air vents [rsh1]
Jul 09, 2008 (9:41 am)
The dealer is right. There is most likely a touch of mold in the ducts. The Lysol will typically cure it.
#151 of 217 Re: Foul odor from interior air vents [rsh1]
Jul 09, 2008 (12:44 pm)
Kill the fungi first (any bacteria disinfectant spray may do the trick). If left alone, your situation will reoccur, and then you’ll have to spray more Lysol again.
Long-term solution: right after using the AC on hot & humid days you should run the blower (AC off) at high speed and in heat mode for about 2 minutes. Use “outside air” mode; not the “recirculated” mode. This will dry the ducts and evaporator fins and coils leaving no room for mold and mildew to grow.
#152 of 217 Re: Foul odor from interior air vents [amauhry]
Jul 10, 2008 (6:15 am)
Contrary to the above, it will take at least 10-15 minutes, typically, but up to an hour to raise the temperature of the 10,000 square inches of evaporator vane surface area enough to have the remaining thin film of moisture thereon begin to evaporate into the airstream. The operational "target" temperature of the evaporator is ~34F.
Absent modifications to the system your best bet is to leave the windows down slight each and EVERY night provided the car is under shelter.
For a really viable modification go to:
And read up on their EED, Electronic Evaporator Dryer.