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Toyota Avalon Engine Questions

353 messages, Last post on Nov 16, 2009 at 7:10 AM
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Replying to: ttyler2000 (Sep 26, 2008 3:36 am) I told you I would post back as soon as I got the car together and running. Since you already know the issue with the manuals vs. the actual job, here is what I did on my 02 Camry V6. I set both sets of cam gears to match up to the 1 dot marks which made my timing gears all line up with the corresponding marks, put it all together and fired it up. It was right. I see yours is a 97 and mine is an 02 so in that 5 year span I am betting there is more that just 2 vehicles out there with the same issue. Hope this post helps others. The way I see it is bring the engine to TDC, use a compression gauge on the #1 cylinder to insure you are on the compression stroke. Intall your camshafts by matching up either the set of marks as long as they are the same ie; either 1 to 1 or 2 to 2 tighthen your caps and forget it at that point. When you are ready to install your timing gears if the cams are not in the correct position to install they gears with there coresponding marks then rotate it 180 degress so the marks are right on both heads then install your belt period. In the future I will always look at the gears before I pull the cams just to be sure. But I can honestly say the book is not right in this particular case. |
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I have a 2000 Avalon XLS, 6 cyl. Just recently it started squeaking very loudly after starting up, The squeaking gets louder and louder until for about 25-30 seconds, after which the rpms or the general stability of the engine makes the squeaking go away. The squeaking usually happened while in reverse and does not go away until I push the rpms above 2k consistently. What can I do to fix this. I leave the house at 5:45am and my wife can hear the squeaking very prominently in our bedroom. I can only imagine what my next door neighbors are thinking...
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Replying to: dcbishop (Feb 08, 2009 8:33 am) Also possible that the bearings on the alternator are shot. Check both of these items. Just one little trick...before starting the car, drop a few drops of plain dishwashing detergent on the belt and the drive pulley and see if it makes a difference. If it does, your fan belt is worn out and pretty shiney looking on the sides. Just my penny's worth. Good luck!! |
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I have a 2006 Avalon Touring Sedan with 27k miles. Last weekend, the red oil light came on. I opened the hood, and oil had sprayed all around the engine compartment. Most of the remaining oil drained while I was waiting for a tow truck. The Toyota dealer indicated that this was a recurring problem with the VVT (variable valve timing) line, and they already had 3 other Avalons in the service department with the same problem--and repair parts were backordered. Through an internet search, I discovered that a Technical Service Bulletin has been published on this for the 05 and 06 Avalons. Fortunately I am covered by warranty and a service loaner is being provided. Has anyone else on this forum experienced this problem?
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I had the check engine light come on recently, and thanks to this and other forums was able to diagonse and fix the problem. I wanted to share it with others in the event you have the same problem. Problem: check engine and VSC warning lights came on right after I had the car alignment checked and tires balanced at about 88,000 miles. I had the check enginer code read by Pep Boys (for free) and it was code P0171, "system too lean bank 1". That was the only code. I had read on a forum that the code means the Mass Air Flow sensor (mounted just after the air cleaner) needed cleaning. I disconnected the electrical connector cable for the sensor, removed the sensor, and sprayed CRC QD electronic parts cleaner (Pep Boys, $5.99) onto the little wires inside the Mass Air Flow sensor without touching the sensor (the sensor wires are very small and sensitive and should not be touched). I then let the sensor dry (about 10 minutes) and reinstalled the MAF sensor and reconnected it. I also removed the 15 amp EFI fuse in the fuse box (under the hood, next to the air cleaner) to reset the check engine light. After a week and several driving trips the check engine light remains off and the car runs as good as new. I had read on other forums that the reason the VSC warning lights came on is that when the tires were removed some error code was generated that said rear tires were spinning relative to the front--but these codes were in the background and the warning lights did not come on until the check engine light came on. When I fixed the check engine light as described above the VSC warning lights went out and stayed off. Some of the other forums showed pictures of the location of the MAF sensor, what it looks like dirty and after cleaning, and other detailed steps if you need more information. I hope this helps someone since I was able to do this myself for $6 instead of having the dealer replace the sensor for about $350-400.
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Replying to: selffixer (Apr 20, 2009 7:51 am) At 88,000 miles I am surprised that you haven't yet run into a problem with the Idle Air Control. Unlike the conveniently positioned MAF, the IAC is on the underside of the intake plumbing and involves quite a bit of work to extract it and clean it. If you ever need to do this job, I have a step-by-step on this site. |
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I Have an error code on my 06 avalon - 137,000 miles - that says the left bank catalytic converter is bad. Yet, after I drive the car for a day or so, usually quite a few miles, the check engine light goes out & I can drive a week or so with the light off; then it comes on again. No real pattern to the time or miles between events. I've had it coded 3 times & the code is always the same. Seems to me that this problem would not be occurring intermittently if the convertor was truly bad. Would like to avoid the $1100. expense of a new convertor if possible, as I'm ready to sell or trade the car this summer. Any ideas?
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Replying to: bobgwtw (Apr 20, 2009 4:31 pm) Before doing anything, however, try this: Load the car, fill with premium gas, get some friends, find some hills and drive the car at highway speed for at least an hour. Make the engine work. It is possible to burn off certain converter residue in this manner. This residue inside the converter can cause a failure code in the O2 sensors. If this works, good. If not, try the sensor replacement. If that fails, it is probably the converter.. This all assumes the car is otherwise properly tuned and maintained. Hope this helps.
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Replying to: fin (Apr 21, 2009 7:30 pm) |
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Replying to: luckykrc (Feb 28, 2009 7:01 pm) Please help me someone!! toyota never again! |
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